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Post by mulmany on Jul 6, 2020 11:40:41 GMT -6
Patrick - sounds very cool and great that you were able to build your own solution! I know that GigRig has a 3-in-1 input switcher with variable input levels to adjust, but I like that you made your own. Only issue is the images aren't loading for me - would be great to see your work. Hmm... Not sure why the link is not working.
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Post by mulmany on Jul 5, 2020 18:07:04 GMT -6
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Post by mulmany on Jul 5, 2020 17:58:24 GMT -6
Built a 2x1 pedal with fx loop and auto switching for independent or series linking.
Concept behind the unit was allowing for quick instrument changing without unplugging. I play a fretted and fretless bass and sometimes there is not a lot of time between songs to make the change. This pedal helps that a lot. I also like to use effects but find shutting down the whole chain a pain, so I put a fx loop in the same enclosure.
The two inputs are ground isolated from chassis and both +- are switched. The switch output feeds the output jack or the fx loop directly if a cable is not inserted. The fx loop is a common ground with a switchable buffer borrowed from a Klon. The unit uses switchable battery or 9v wallwart power for the buffer and indicator LEDs.
All in all it turned out great and works well. Still needs paint and labels, details!
Could have put this in DIY but thought it maybe of more interest here.
I still need to actually look at parts cost, with the enclosure, foot switches and 1/4 Jack's being the most expensive items. I used good ones!
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Post by mulmany on Jul 4, 2020 19:04:05 GMT -6
Seems like I saw a thread on phase issues a while back, but can't find it so here goes. Please forgive the "newbie-ness" of this question. I'm experiencing phase issues and am wondering if it is the cabling. I'm using my RME Multiface II and TotalMix as my patchbay to route. I have two preamps, AudioScape Opto, TC Electronics M-One XL, and an AudioScape BUSS Comp connected individually to the inputs/outputs on the Multiface II using XLR-to-1/4" TRS. I route the full chain to my headphone mix for tracking, and am also starting to use some of the individual gear on hardware inserts in Reaper. When I record vocals, I track both Input 1 or 2 (the preamps) and Input 3 (the Opto with minimal compression). If I route my headphone signal directly from one of the preamps, the phase button needs to be out (not depressed) to hear the correct phase (fullness/bass/focused). However, if I route the signal through the complete hardware chain first, I have to push the phase button in to hear those same sonics. I've tried routing the signal to each separate component in my headphones (pre to opto, pre to verb, pre to BUSS) and they are not consistent. I like having the full chain in my headphone mix when recording so I hear myself in a virtually "finished" feed, but if I want to hear myself phased correctly then the recorded track direct from the pre is phase inverted, while the track from the Opto is correctly phased. Is it likely my cables are inverting the signal several times along the path? My copy of TotalMix does not have a phase option, and I'm not sure that simply using the phase button in Reaper truly mirrors what a non-inverted recorded signal really sounds like. I know further experimentation is needed, but wondering if I should just invest in some newer/better cables as a starting point. I can't imagine that the RME or the individual components are inverting the signal, but I certainly don't want any hardware inserts to be changing phase when printing. I need the phase to stay consistent and be predictable. Thanks! Todd Todd, kept meaning to say... buy a Galaxy Cricket/polarity checker. Great little tool for testing this stuff. Use it for mics, preamps, speakers, rack gear, and the whole recording chain.
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Post by mulmany on Jul 4, 2020 8:31:53 GMT -6
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Post by mulmany on Jul 3, 2020 14:27:15 GMT -6
32ch ad/da, 2x Motu 16a.
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Post by mulmany on Jul 2, 2020 20:33:42 GMT -6
svart has a good point... How many people pick the mics they do out of habit? They know how they need to carve it, compress it to sound the way it does. I doubt many engineers pick a mic solely on how it sounds without EQ or compression and that's what ends up on the record. I use an i5, MJ012, and a KM84 clone on snare. I don't own a 57...keep thinking I should just have one around.
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Post by mulmany on Jun 30, 2020 18:38:31 GMT -6
Old dbx units are pin 3 hot.
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Post by mulmany on Jun 28, 2020 21:36:19 GMT -6
What do you guys do for maintenance on your studio kits? seanI am specifically interested in finish tips. Treat them like a guitar? Polishing old chrome hardware? I have seen 0000 steel wool and spirits to smooth out pitting issues. Thought this should go in DIY since it is a hands on thing that could be useful for restoration as well.
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Post by mulmany on Jun 22, 2020 19:13:20 GMT -6
Gefell UM70, M70, with a MV692 preamp. Somehow I keep buying stuff... Even though I should be saving money right now! My favorite reasonable priced LDC, with a very nice SDC capsule to boot! Well done. Yeah...I was looking for multipair cable, then about to buy a KM84... Then found these for a good price. 2 mics for the price of a KM. Time will tell if it was a good decision. But it was the best price I have seen in a long time.
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Post by mulmany on Jun 22, 2020 17:05:13 GMT -6
Gefell UM70, M70, with a MV692 preamp.
Somehow I keep buying stuff... Even though I should be saving money right now!
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Post by mulmany on Jun 21, 2020 21:31:17 GMT -6
Thanks... picked it up.
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Post by mulmany on Jun 20, 2020 8:22:31 GMT -6
Turned on my SA-2A for a session a few days ago, and the VU meter didn’t light up. The audio seemed fine, and the needle moved as expected, but no light, so I couldn’t see what I was doing very well. The next day, it lit up fine. The day after that (and ever since), no light. Is this probably a simple bulb replacement? I haven't pulled it out of the rack and opened it up because quite frankly, I don’t have time to fiddle with this right now unless it’s a quick, simple fix and if I already have the replacement bulb. (If indeed that’s what it is.) And again, the audio itself seems unaffected, so it’s not a show-stopper. I’ll email stam, but I wanted to check here, too, in case I get a quicker answer. Depends on what kind of bulb it is. If it's a 120v lamp, then it should just work until the filement ruptures. If its LED or different V+ then the voltage regulator/supply could have a bad component.
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Post by mulmany on Jun 19, 2020 9:38:32 GMT -6
2x ADC ProPatch E90 TT bays. After all the resoldering on the last bay reconfigure, the price was right to try out a modular bay.
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Post by mulmany on Jun 17, 2020 12:44:42 GMT -6
Ok... Did a quick simple test. Please don't judge, I am terrible at pulling stuff out of my head in a vacuum! Super basic 4 cord progression. Beginning is standard fingering changing to plucking. Both basses have Flats on them. Wish I had a P-bass! Again... DIs into a Shinybox Si(36-42 gain), Yamaha TRB-4 in Passive mode (flat wounds), Peavey Foundation-Fretless (Flat wounds) Files are 44.1/16 located HERE!
Enjoy!
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Akg C61?
Jun 16, 2020 18:04:18 GMT -6
via mobile
Post by mulmany on Jun 16, 2020 18:04:18 GMT -6
No. I would not pay that much (though I did check out that ad and they are extremely clean). You could buy 3 Neumann KM84's for that price and be happier.
These capsule though are the best sounding SDC's AKG produced
Thanks Tim! Off topic, but hey I started the thread... Have you worked on the Matachung ELA M251 version. Very interested in building a pair, but I can't seem to find the shootout video anymore. I know kcatthedog build a pair of the C12's with your CT12.
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Akg C61?
Jun 16, 2020 17:27:11 GMT -6
via mobile
Post by mulmany on Jun 16, 2020 17:27:11 GMT -6
Ok...so are these worth the asking price? Are they just cashing in on the name/tube option? I saw 5 pairs come up for sale, Omni set, CK28 set, and ck1 sets. The ck28 set is at the top at $3400 USD.
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Post by mulmany on Jun 15, 2020 23:17:36 GMT -6
Thanks for the reminder!
I set up for a Zcon, Countryman 85, and diy Bo Hanson DIs. Running through to a Shinybox Si. Bass will be a Yamaha TRB-4 in passive mode and a Peavy Foundation-FL.
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Akg C61?
Jun 14, 2020 18:41:47 GMT -6
via mobile
Post by mulmany on Jun 14, 2020 18:41:47 GMT -6
What is up with this mic?
Never heard of them before and now they are popping up for sale every where!
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Post by mulmany on Jun 11, 2020 21:51:26 GMT -6
I own one...easy build. Come to think of it I have not actually used it yet. Built it right before Covid took over the world.
Maybe I will sit down and do some comparisons tomorrow.
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Post by mulmany on Jun 9, 2020 20:08:41 GMT -6
The fan on my 2012 mini is driving me crazy. It’s pretty much on full throttle all the time. Makes it impossible to track anything in the same room. I keep reading that Apple is planning to drop a new iMac soon. Possibly an announcement coming 6/22. I’m going to try and hold out till then. I’m all in for an updated iMac. One thing I did was to file down the air intake on the bottom cover. Just remove a bit of the lip were the wifi antenna is. It made a huge difference in mine.
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Post by mulmany on Jun 9, 2020 20:01:52 GMT -6
MXR M300 reverb and MXR 292 Carbon Copy deluxe guitar pedals - I don't play guitar🤔
Ludwig 70's Acrolite snare - I am not a drummer🤕
24ch Mogami snake cable - I can terminate cable though!
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Post by mulmany on Jun 8, 2020 8:55:55 GMT -6
I default to spaced pair. Not sure why... I use ortf on occasion, and Glynn John's. I find that drummers seem to love the over wide spaced pair sound. Maybe it's what they are use to seeing and makes sense to their concepts.
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Post by mulmany on Jun 2, 2020 15:32:08 GMT -6
Can we get the stand separately? You could easily modify a snare stand for sure! It looked shorter...but that is a good idea... I will try out a snare stand for mine.
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Post by mulmany on Jun 2, 2020 8:48:36 GMT -6
Can we get the stand separately?
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