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Post by mulmany on Oct 1, 2020 20:29:00 GMT -6
Mrpatchbay.com he has a bunch of templates on the site it's all by brand.
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Post by mulmany on Sept 20, 2020 20:20:56 GMT -6
Just as Dan said. Never turn it on until everything is connected. Always turn it off before removing the connection too. Anecdotally, what is the likelihood of damaging the mic or the preamp if someone forgets to do this? Very rare... The issue is old vintage ribbon mics and popping your speakers if you forget to turn 48v off. In some cases people could accidentally patch a pre amp input into a line input and that could cause a problem.
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Post by mulmany on Sept 20, 2020 20:14:22 GMT -6
And just remember the rule: "outs" over "ins." Except for outboard then they go in over out! At least that was how I was taught.
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Post by mulmany on Sept 20, 2020 20:09:07 GMT -6
You can also use 3pole switching jacks.
This keeps the ground intact to the pre, but requires a ground isolated bay. This is just a little extra assurance that the bay is acting like a straight through cable. I converted my tie line bay to these ground switching jacks.
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Post by mulmany on Sept 12, 2020 20:25:13 GMT -6
I am using a ATEM production 4k for streaming, and it's great as a minimum SDI unit. BMD stuff is good. I have not looked into the Iso since it's hdmi based, but does it let you add delay offset for the inputs? I would imagine that throwing a bunch of different cameras on a shoot would cause different lip sync figures. I am using PTZ cameras from Aver all controlled via joystick. Jesse, if you need long reliable hdmi hit me up. The audio inputs can be offset, but it doesn't seem like video can. Is that a common issue? I am not sure... I am using all the same camera brand. I know it's true for displays, so figure it has to hold some water for capture. I would probably sync your close camera then let any longer shots be what ever they are. Might not be enough to ever notice. Funny thing, my Midas M32's native delay syncs my audio and video perfectly...well at least to my eye. I have not actually put a sync tester on it. And speaking to the quality of the h264 on the BMD, it looks good. No one watching on a regular size screen is going to notice. Plus everyone is use to streaming compression, even a Bluray is compressed and nobody complained about them! Well, except where to store the cases.
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Post by mulmany on Sept 12, 2020 19:42:14 GMT -6
I am using a ATEM production 4k for streaming, and it's great as a minimum SDI unit. BMD stuff is good.
I have not looked into the Iso since it's hdmi based, but does it let you add delay offset for the inputs? I would imagine that throwing a bunch of different cameras on a shoot would cause different lip sync figures. I am using PTZ cameras from Aver all controlled via joystick.
Jesse, if you need long reliable hdmi hit me up.
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Post by mulmany on Sept 3, 2020 12:11:53 GMT -6
I am worse for seeing that You should have been in my OSHA training class! Electrical safety!
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Post by mulmany on Sept 2, 2020 20:06:35 GMT -6
You can just use Zoom. It will allow you to share your screen if needed and you can pick your audio source. OBS would work if you needed to record the video and can tie into Zoom, but I think that is over kill for what you need.
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Post by mulmany on Aug 21, 2020 10:22:35 GMT -6
I guess you can buy them already assembled? I have too many diy projects on my plate right now to take on another kit. Edit: This actually looks really simple to put together. Like it might only take two hours. I think the RM-5 would be what I would want if I went the Bumblebee route. Does the RM-6 sound kind of like a Royer? If you know how to read and which end of an iron is hot, a pair should take about 40min to build. They sound great.
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Post by mulmany on Aug 16, 2020 16:24:46 GMT -6
Where are these LEDs exactly? Front of the PSU...
PIC HERE:
Those are supposed to be lit green. Tells you that the voltage is present.
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Post by mulmany on Aug 14, 2020 9:37:19 GMT -6
I use Canare GS-6, no issues.
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Post by mulmany on Aug 7, 2020 21:00:20 GMT -6
V-comp, cause it's what I got! Want a D-Comp
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Post by mulmany on Jul 31, 2020 13:18:01 GMT -6
I parted with $1500 on my last computer.
I realized through the process that I should have just bought this machine in the first place instead of trying out the Mac Mini. I think spending more money on a PC that is a bit bigger than you think you need is the smarter long term investment. Unfortunately electronics don't seem to care if its convenient or practical to breakdown or die.
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Post by mulmany on Jul 27, 2020 22:40:54 GMT -6
Well, shit. I guess I'll just go the SMPS route then. Y'all are convincing me. And just to clarify, I have 5 500 racks. 4 capi - 1xAPI, 2x 51x, 1x API filtered 1 OSD - API I was building a big custom psu for my 500 rack but stalled out, so I just bought 2x of Jeff's SMPS. Needed to get the racks up and running before I had finished the custom PSU.
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Post by mulmany on Jul 27, 2020 21:51:02 GMT -6
I have both. Haven't noticed any difference. I have one of the older unfiltered racks running off Jeff's SMPS and don't notice anything different, but I have not done a real analysis of the noise or anything.
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Post by mulmany on Jul 27, 2020 8:30:41 GMT -6
I’ve had the fans in Glyph drives go bad (as well as the drives themselves.) I really like Other World Computing (OWC) drives from MacSales.com I have been an OWC drive guy since 2004. Original FW400 units, and they still work. The only issue I have had has been with a SSD drive.
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Post by mulmany on Jul 26, 2020 9:51:18 GMT -6
My understanding is that the warming up period is the hardest part for tube gear.
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Post by mulmany on Jul 24, 2020 18:29:46 GMT -6
I just got an email asking if I’m interested in paying extra to upgrade a couple transformers in mine, so I guess after two years mine is getting close! I did too...
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Post by mulmany on Jul 22, 2020 16:51:51 GMT -6
Ward, I used super glue, just disassemble the body tube so you don't push glue onto the protective sleeve!
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Post by mulmany on Jul 22, 2020 16:12:50 GMT -6
Jokes aside, I knew a guy who tried to record his electric guitar with a mic and complained it was too quiet. When I asked why, he plainly said that the amp was too loud to record. WTF. I have recorded a client's Gretch archtop via mic on his last two albums. It's a little different situation, but not quite as quiet as a solid electric!
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Post by mulmany on Jul 22, 2020 15:55:09 GMT -6
kcatthedogWhat if any difference is there between the JW and CAL mods? Just two different ways to get to the same result?
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Post by mulmany on Jul 11, 2020 14:23:02 GMT -6
Do you know if the Redco wire is made for them by Mogami?? The 8 channel Redco snakes I've seen look like Mogami cable. I have used both side by side and the redco is not the same as the Mogami 26xx formula...it may be closer to the standard non-numbered cable. I didn't really believe all the stuff about Mogami until I started doing the patchbays and E90s. I was a big Canare fan, but the Mogami 26xx cable is much easier to work with which saves time. The redco was close but not quite as easy to work. I still use Canare for individual cables though.
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Post by mulmany on Jul 10, 2020 23:16:43 GMT -6
You can cover a lot of ground with a 3U warbler-d. I think they are great all rounders. I have not been disappointed whenever I put them up. I have a pair of MK1D, a mkV, and a GZ251.
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Post by mulmany on Jul 10, 2020 23:06:12 GMT -6
Atlas has a shock system in one of their big stands, but it is only functional when you lower the boom. Its there to prevent the mic from dropping the telescoping piece too fast. They eventually stop working! You may be able to rebuild them... I should look into that.
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Post by mulmany on Jul 7, 2020 8:33:58 GMT -6
Purchase an inroom unit and vent out the window. Just get some wrap insulation for the exhaust pipe or all the heat radiates back into the room through the cheap corrugated plastic pipe.
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