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Post by keymod on Sept 22, 2016 10:10:12 GMT -6
Klark Teknik. Nice, bargain for 8 channels of comps. Underrated IMO
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Post by keymod on Sept 21, 2016 14:11:37 GMT -6
Lol, This thread is giving me GAS.
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Post by keymod on Sept 21, 2016 12:59:58 GMT -6
You also still need D/A converters with Sigma, correct? To bring analog into it from your DAW.
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Post by keymod on Sept 21, 2016 10:25:06 GMT -6
Afaik, Sigma can be used standalone, with a controller, to automate an existing analog console. I would expect it to "enhance" what goes through it in some sort of "hi-fi" way. Used in conjunction with the quality virtual channel strips available, I can't see it being anything other than fantastic.
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Post by keymod on Sept 20, 2016 10:56:12 GMT -6
I just bought a 2 x 12 open back Avatar cabinet with Alnico Blues. Am considering selling my Bricasti/Peluso P12 and Elysia nVleope and buying an SSL Sigma. If I didn't have a console, I would buy a Nucleus with two Sigmas.
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Post by keymod on Sept 19, 2016 13:59:47 GMT -6
Motu 24Ao
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Post by keymod on Sept 18, 2016 12:04:30 GMT -6
Ben, how're you doing??
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Post by keymod on Sept 17, 2016 14:26:48 GMT -6
Happy Birthday Martin
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Post by keymod on Sept 17, 2016 3:48:35 GMT -6
Greetings
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Post by keymod on Sept 15, 2016 3:01:13 GMT -6
The Phoenix stuff is some of the most beautiful-looking on the market. If it sounds anywhere near as good as it looks, it must be killer. I was jonesing for a Nicerizer16 to use in my sidecar project, but it doesn't have as many interface/connection options as the API 8200A.
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Post by keymod on Sept 12, 2016 3:21:46 GMT -6
Thanks for checking it out Levon. The room sound is bricasti....8) The dry sound is pretty good, and the bricasti giv s it 3D depth. Surprised a bit by the lack of interest in the videos actually Cheers Wiz I'm looking forward to watching the videos once I actually can find the time. Thanks for posting them.
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Post by keymod on Sept 5, 2016 4:47:17 GMT -6
Just worked for me here in the USA.
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Post by keymod on Sept 1, 2016 15:06:47 GMT -6
Good luck with your search
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Post by keymod on Aug 23, 2016 7:29:50 GMT -6
I still like having something to hold and read while I listen. A dollar per song, including shipping and download, is very reasonable IMO.
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Post by keymod on Aug 21, 2016 5:40:50 GMT -6
Thanks for both replies. I will certainly install any VIs on the currently-running ADK, which is in my control room. The room where I have my keyboards set up is about forty feet away, and my Roland Vdrum set is about thirty feet away. I want to be able to use the software "standalone" so as to play the instruments live in the rooms, but have the ability to record back midi tracks if needed into the DAW. Based on my history with ADK ( I own two rack-mount ) , I would prefer to purchase one of their laptops for this use. But the Mac Mini fits a little bit easier into budget planning right now. Whichever one I choose, I want the ability to have a small mobile rig in the event I ever want to/find the time to play out anywhere again. The other issue is then which interface to choose. The keys only need stereo out, but I would want at least six for the drums.
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Post by keymod on Aug 20, 2016 9:24:32 GMT -6
I am considering a Mac Mini for use with virtual instruments, specifically Ivory and BFD3 among others. Is it possible for some connection to allow communication between the Mac Mini and my PC which will be running my DAW? PC is a tricked-out ADK running Windows 7 pro 64bit.
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Post by keymod on Aug 17, 2016 15:38:37 GMT -6
I suppose I should be flattered for being grouped into the same category as a lawyer...... Or am I the one that should feel insulted??? I can tell you the big difference - they bill out at about six to ten times more per hour than I can, and they always get paid. And when I need to use one to help me get paid, they get most of the money................... Here I thought I was providing welcomed clarification of some of the topics being discussed. A lawyer would have charged you for every word.
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Post by keymod on Aug 16, 2016 8:34:29 GMT -6
Isolated ground is a completely different animal from service and equipment ground. With it, special wiring techniques are required . It's not something that can be added simply by connecting another ground rod to a sub-panel. Even the receptacles used have to be specific to use with it. And it's not something easily or inexpensively added to an existing installation.
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Post by keymod on Aug 15, 2016 16:09:56 GMT -6
The NEC only requires ground rods to a sub-panel if it is within a separate structure from the main disconnect of the entire service. To do or recommend otherwise is dangerous and against code regulations.
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Post by keymod on Aug 14, 2016 16:54:49 GMT -6
Aremos, I agree with drbill. No insurance, no rent. Jesse, Seimans makes a good product. I use their stuff but have not seen that one. The ones I use are in the $200 range that I get through my supply house. That colored Regional Zone thing seems Like Home Depot marketing. Why not just get the best one regardless of where you are?
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Post by keymod on Aug 14, 2016 14:57:18 GMT -6
So, a direct question ... from a musician, who's not an electrician or engineer: For a home studio (2 car garage turned into "state-of-the-art" room), how/what can I obtain/do to solely protect the equipment from power anomalies? What can you recommend? Are you already built-out, or just starting to plan?
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Post by keymod on Aug 14, 2016 14:54:32 GMT -6
How far from the panel doesn't matter. What matters is where the grounding electrode conductor(s) are attached to the system. The NEC requires that the system is grounded at the main disconnect, which is not necessarily in your panel. At the main disconnect, neutral is tied physically to earth ( ground ). Everywhere else in the system, it must be separated. So the grounding conductors in any panel which is a sub-panel and/or in any panel which doesn't include the main disconnect, must be on a separate buss/rail/point of attachment from the neutral. We are required to provide two grounding electrodes ( rods ) which are eight feet long, 5/8" diameter copper-coated steel, driven into earth approximately 8 - 10 feet apart, as vertically as possible. These are connected together , back to the main, using one grounding electrode conductor, un-broken. As for the dirt, there is a minimum resistance, in ohms, which is supposed to be provided by the grounding electrode system. I'd have to look that number up in the NEC. There are ways to improve that number if needed, but I've never seen any Inspector check for it here in CT. I guess it's assumed our dirt is dirty enough..... Florida has trouble with this because of it's sandy soil. Any metal cold water piping within the premises has to be grounded back to the main. If there is PEX mixed with copper, the PEX has to be jumpered. Same for any metallic gas lines, even the flex stuff. There are some manufacturers of the flex who have U.L Listing stating their product does not have to be grounded, but most municipalities require it anyway. Better safe than sorry, lightening and short-circuits don't mix well with gas. We are now even required to ground the rebar within the footings of a home, and all metal within a commercial building. One of the best things your electrician can check is to make sure all of the connections within a panel, especially the neutrals, are properly tight. Neutral is a current-carrying, grounded conductor ( back at the main disconnect, remember? ) Therefore, a loose neutral may hinder stray current making it back to earth. Current ALWAYS wants to go back to the earth and, if it can't get there the way it's supposed to, it will find other means. That's where things can go badly, at the speed of light.
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Post by keymod on Aug 14, 2016 11:19:24 GMT -6
drbill, almost. Better than doing nothing. If the strike occurs upstream from your service, the disconnected/opened breaker will lessen the number of paths that the current can flow through but, given a strong/close enough strike, the current can still jump across the wiring connections inside the service panels and make it to your equipment. If the strike occurs downstream from your service equipment, actually hitting your building, all bets are off. So the key is to limit the path the strike can take. A properly designed and installed grounding path gives the lightening the path of least resistance with the hope being that it will choose to go directly to earth rather than through the premises.
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Post by keymod on Aug 14, 2016 10:17:47 GMT -6
Martin, the only way to guarantee nothing will happen from lightening is to unplug everything from the electrical system.
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Post by keymod on Aug 14, 2016 10:15:09 GMT -6
While their isn't a huge voltage spike there are many little spikes just if not more dangerous ! Another anomaly that would not exist had that homeowner maintained what he is responsible for - earth ground. I have to take exception to that statement. No way is a homeowner responsible for maintaining earth ground, or anything related to the electrical system. A typical homeowner doesn't know earth ground from ocean water. The local Authority, having jurisdiction ( Building Inspector, Electrical Inspector ) is responsible to give the OK on an installation AFTER a properly Licensed, Bonded and Insured Electrical Contractor does the installation. The local Utility has very little say in the matter and can't even provide power until the Building Official gives the go-ahead. If there is any doubt about an existing installation, said Electrical Contractor should be consulted. Even if the homeowner "thinks" he knows enough to do it himself, permits and inspections are still required. Do it yourself, do it wrong, and say goodbye to any Insurance protection if something goes wrong somewhere down the line.
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