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Post by mulmany on Mar 28, 2016 20:54:53 GMT -6
It's more of a live sound feature. I try and use it if I run out of mics on a live gig, or I don't want the mic changing the tone. Sometimes it works and other times it loads the amp oddly, causing unwanted distortion. This is with tube amps, SS amps don't care.
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Post by mulmany on Mar 28, 2016 20:44:47 GMT -6
It's ugly!
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Post by mulmany on Mar 26, 2016 22:05:20 GMT -6
Just picked up two 96 point TT Bittree e90 patchbay off the bay for a steal. I keep my rig mobile so I have been looking for db25 or elco bays for a while.
Do any of you have a preference for solder or crimp pins for the elcos? If I do go with solder pins, I can ditch the crimp tool and save some money, but spend more time soldering.
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Post by mulmany on Mar 26, 2016 19:44:07 GMT -6
I would be in for 2.
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Post by mulmany on Mar 24, 2016 22:54:13 GMT -6
How is latency? That was bad before.
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Post by mulmany on Mar 22, 2016 12:56:30 GMT -6
Mass is still your friend after you make it air tight.
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Post by mulmany on Mar 22, 2016 9:11:52 GMT -6
You need to use a raised sill plate, so that the entire edge of the door gets sealed against the stops. Use a steel door and use magnetic seals. Those are the cheapest options.
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Post by mulmany on Mar 13, 2016 10:26:16 GMT -6
Pick yourself up a galaxy audio cricket, it's a cable tester, mic/speaker polarity checker. I have found it an invaluable recording tool.
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Post by mulmany on Mar 12, 2016 12:04:52 GMT -6
There is a app called electodroid, very good resource for all things electronic. Has a resistor color code calculator along with tables to transpose all the crazy cap markings. I use it alot, to double check myself.
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Post by mulmany on Mar 10, 2016 17:07:27 GMT -6
I have all 4. Vp25 gets used for drums, vp312 on OH, vp26 on elec gtr, VP28 on vox and rythem gtr. Vp25 provides a little more bass with a nice aggressive kick. vp26 good all rounder just not giving as big a bottom. VP312 really fast and detailed, no caps in the signal path. Great for bass and transient detail. VP28 just really good. Provides good thickness without sounding wooly. The line mode is great for the 2buss. If you were starting over, would you still have the variety or just go will all 28's? Hmmm... interesting question. I think I would still have the 25, 312, and 28. The difference between the 25 and 26 is close so I would do the 25 and just hi pass what I don't want. Having said that I only have pairs of the 312, 28, and 26 so I have not run a full kit through just them.
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Post by mulmany on Mar 10, 2016 16:25:32 GMT -6
I have all 4. Vp25 gets used for drums, vp312 on OH, vp26 on elec gtr, VP28 on vox and rythem gtr.
Vp25 provides a little more bass with a nice aggressive kick.
vp26 good all rounder just not giving as big a bottom.
VP312 really fast and detailed, no caps in the signal path. Great for bass and transient detail.
VP28 just really good. Provides good thickness without sounding wooly. The line mode is great for the 2buss.
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Post by mulmany on Mar 9, 2016 11:11:07 GMT -6
Do you have dynamic plugin processing turned on? Having that on solved alot of odd pt cpu load issues for my machine.
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Dithering
Mar 6, 2016 17:59:46 GMT -6
via mobile
Post by mulmany on Mar 6, 2016 17:59:46 GMT -6
I started dithering before all my HW inserts, and I was playing around with dithering before plugins that I found harsh or the plugin effect less noticeable. I found that dithering made a noticeable difference in both locations. I also am using the PSP x dither plug.
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Post by mulmany on Mar 1, 2016 14:21:56 GMT -6
The only issue I have had with the hairball is that the knobs are tight. My fat fingers get in the way. I prefer the Don u76 for this reason. That is my go to vocal comp while mixing right now. I not sure I would recommend it for a beginner though. The documents are good, but deffinately for a experienced builder. But hey you might do great with it your first time out.
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Post by mulmany on Mar 1, 2016 14:07:38 GMT -6
As a beginner, I would go with the rack unit. I just finished a hairball 500 rev d and though it's not terribly complicated, the led meter adds some fun. Calibration is also a labor of patients!
The La500a would also be a good starter. We have a decent exchange rate right now with Australia.
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Post by mulmany on Feb 25, 2016 16:08:08 GMT -6
Old stereo amp from a thrift store?
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Post by mulmany on Feb 21, 2016 12:23:24 GMT -6
Just buy a the 24 raw transformers from Jenson and wire them into a rack case. 1 4u 48 channel male xlr front panel and 1 24 channel female xlr rear panel. That's the cheapest way to do it and get it exactly the way you want. No reason to go active with just a 2 way split. The direct line goes to the recording and provides 48v, the transformer split goes to FOH.
It will take some time, not sure if you have a time limit to completion.
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Post by mulmany on Feb 1, 2016 20:34:42 GMT -6
You need a consistent 8 Meg download speed to watch a 1080p/DolbyD+ movie from VUDU, so anything over that should do light weight audio no problem.
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Post by mulmany on Jan 30, 2016 23:43:09 GMT -6
Is that sm5 good for rap vocals? I haven't read the endless threads on mic choice, I just want you to tell me I will be the next fiddy cent if I use a sm5!
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PMV70X?
Jan 26, 2016 21:34:42 GMT -6
via mobile
unit7 likes this
Post by mulmany on Jan 26, 2016 21:34:42 GMT -6
Used them as bass DI today. Man they sound good! Don't know if it's the fet plugin or the amp itself but it may be my favorite DI bass tone that I have personally heard. A good bit ahead of the Bo Hanson DI's.
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Post by mulmany on Jan 26, 2016 0:59:04 GMT -6
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Post by mulmany on Jan 25, 2016 12:59:16 GMT -6
Musician friends and audio engineers. This ad showed up on my Facebook page. $468 for some fancy foam with cutouts, really? If this was $46 I'd have to think on it, but would probably go for it. I'm sure it works, but there's gotta be a better way. I'm not about to start working on soundproofing in my apartment, as I plan to leave asap, but I'm curious, this product doesn't seem so complicated, other than than the wide variety of cutout sizes. Perhaps the material is special, but I imagine there could be something similar made with some absorptive foam that costs less than $100, no? www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/437626-REG/RPG_Diffusor_Systems_SKYEW_2_Skyline_Diffusor_2.htmlRPG is the top dog of ready made acoustic treatment and solutions. They hold quite a few patents. They are well beyond what everyone else is doing... and with that comes a price. It's also not foam in the sense of the cheap egg crate GC special.
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Post by mulmany on Jan 24, 2016 12:41:34 GMT -6
Thanks gentleman. It seems I was a year off in the cycle, when my Dual Core 2.3 mhz G5 was really showing it's age and I upgraded to a 2008 2.8 mhz 8 core. (and i would have all the power I'd ever need...lol)It has served me well for years now and only chokes when several large sample libraries are open. (24 gigs of RAM) It doesn't really hurt my workflow terribly and I probably would just keep riding her for a while longer, except that I'm having this strange problem when it gets cold out. Unless the control room temperature is at least around 70 degrees, it takes me about 30 times to power up. The first 20 times, it goes on and turns off immediately. Next 5 times, it stays on for a few seconds before turning off, and eventually it powers up. I've looked everywhere for answers, but it seems to be pretty unique. The best idea I've found is that there may be a lubricant (hard drive or other moving part?) that when cold, can cause something to not move as it should, sending an error message to the logic board that there's a problem. I changed the boot up drive, but the problem still exists. It's possible changing to an SSD drive would help, but I'm hesitant to spend the money on a 1TB SSD drive, when my computer doesn't support SATA 3, and as I understand it, I wouldn't get the benefits running a SATA 3 SSD on my machine. Plus my magnetic hard drives have worked well for years in the same kind of temperatures that I'm having a problem with now. I'm kind of over it. So, if I have to change computers, I feel as though I might as well go for it, as in my eyes, speed = longevity. As a bonus, my workflow should improve when I don't need to render VI's and sample libraries, or feel reticent about experimenting with a particular plug in chain. So it comes down to finding a good deal on a 4.1 machine and upgrade it myself or buy one that's been upgraded, while staying in the $1500 range. At least, that's what's making sense to me right now... Hey Tony, care to share some of your inexpensive, well known and proven trick outs? Thanks! This actually sounds like a power supply problem. I had a similar issue with my Z800, until I swapped the psu. It does not make sense why a psu would work then not but it was the case for me.
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PMV70X?
Jan 23, 2016 23:59:25 GMT -6
via mobile
unit7 likes this
Post by mulmany on Jan 23, 2016 23:59:25 GMT -6
Started building these today. Not much to do with 2 ft of snow falling outside.
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Post by mulmany on Jan 12, 2016 14:20:31 GMT -6
I have protools cpu crashes when I record if I use a usb3/DVI video dongle. Odd issue, sounds like this. Protools is perfectly stable as long as I don't just use the usb video adaptor.
Have you ran you tbolt display and your hdmi display at the same time?
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