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Post by tonycamphd on May 2, 2016 22:45:23 GMT -6
just buy a bunch of ends from orange county speaker, and makem once, I wouldn't change the back of the unit
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Post by tonycamphd on May 2, 2016 11:29:44 GMT -6
nice to have a guide vocal/melody, as everything you do as a player is based on it, well, at least it should be IMO.
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Post by tonycamphd on May 2, 2016 11:26:53 GMT -6
After listening to some modern tracks, I'm beginning to think I've been a little roll happy. These are just approximations - different for every mix - but I find myself rolling off kick around 40, bass around 40-60...and taking the super sub out of some things. One of the new CAPI EQ's - think Jeff is calling it the LC25? - goes down to 25Hz. low E on bass is 41Hz, depending on rate per octave, this^ seems a bit high JK, but if it's workin it's workin....
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Post by tonycamphd on May 2, 2016 7:48:27 GMT -6
why so low? the harrison filters cut off at around 35hz(I think), second order, i always filter at the fundamental, if you're filtering off at 20hz? then your kick drum is 48" haha, i'd just resort to a fab filter linear phase to filter off that low, but watch careful for pre ringing artifacts!
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Post by tonycamphd on May 2, 2016 7:38:47 GMT -6
yep I understand the concepts, I doubt there is a soundproof area around the gap, there will be a timber frame most likely. these things need to be kept simple or the entire system falls down. Here's an illustration of the typical window, with the gap in the framing between the studs, which serves as the ventilation between the glass panes: what you say makes sense, BUT, if he has a moisture problem? argon is the way, it's much heavier than oxygen and if the glass on the higher spl side is proper, it's probably at least 1/2" thick, and the combo with gas will work well, and most importantly, keep the windows from fogging on the insides. I would personally do it as illustrated above, and run a dehumidifier every moment i wasn't in the rooms
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Post by tonycamphd on May 2, 2016 5:47:18 GMT -6
Run a dehumidifier constantly when NOT in use, or, Consider sealing the space between the 2 pieces of glass with a high grade sealant designed for dual glazing and gassing Windows, I've used 100% silicone as well, and then shoot argon in between the panes by creating a small hole at bottom corner of one side, and a relief at top opposite corner, flood the space from a small tube inserted in the bottom, and the argon's greater weight will displace the oxygen slowly out of the top hole, once filled you plug/seal top hole, pull hose plug bottom hole, as long as it stays sealed, no moisture or dust probs. Figure out the cubic ft of air space between the glass, and slightly exceed with a cylinder of argon. If u can afford it? Get pro's to do it, if u DIY it's inxpensive, so a fail isn't too heartbreaking haha good luck! Let us know 8)
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Post by tonycamphd on May 1, 2016 20:42:21 GMT -6
Not so sure great musicians are making thins sound analog...They too sound like great musicians mixed inside the box when they're mixed inside the box. Well "analog" is not the point from my post. It's time. Timing is the issue here and that is surely a consideration when choosing musicians. Hell I don't even know what "analog" sounds like. I do know for a fact that my console is screwed up in time though. Each channel is slightly different in firing time. That helps. Most people call this smear. But it could be called magic just the same. hey Cowboy, i think your a pretty darn good all around player player! Don't be so hard on yourself! anyway, JMV, but it seems there has been this idea put forward that analog slows things down with imperfections vs the perfection of ITB(maybe i'm misunderstanding in this threads context? but i've heard it plenty elsewhere), but it's actually the opposite, all the calculations in the daw create latency and errors that lag time, and then get rounded off to the nearest sample/bit(truncation), voltage summing and all acts in the analog domain happen at almost the speed of light! so slowed down it is not. As far as summing overall, as an experiment, try dropping everything OTB to your console once, with no moves made ITB whatsoever, treating everything with hardware inserts on the console, and then buss to stereo subs on the console, then apply your 2 buss style compression on the subs, and leave the 2 buss naked, then recapture off the 2, and i promise you there is a very large difference in the sonics as compared to summing ITB, vivid imaging is way easier to achieve, and much more tangible via voltage summing ime. so i'd say the benefits of summing do not come in half measures, slapping something on the 2 buss at the end can be very good, but it is not the same.
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Post by tonycamphd on May 1, 2016 20:16:45 GMT -6
Is there a certain number of tracks where things start to go downhill ? Like over 16 and things start to get compromised ? thats a loaded question, and it totally depends on how you use it, but generally not a problem on a great console that's well designed with good head room, if you're on mediocre/just get by kinda gear, then yes, but generally the more channels you sum, the larger the benefit from an image solidity standpoint IME, my rig is being set up for outboard summing banks of 8 for passive stereo bussing, where they'll be returned/make up gained to pairs on my console and then summed to the stereo buss.... for what is essentially double summing I guess, I'm a huge proponent for stereo subs being re collected at the 2, it really gives you the ability to compartmentalize individual aspects of the image by instruments, vs the hard to shake vaguity(not a word 8) aspect of ITB summing, of course JME.
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Post by tonycamphd on May 1, 2016 5:03:03 GMT -6
Look at it this way, the German Engineers were smart enough to show the huge hole in the U.S. Environmental testing program that nobody has addressed! We as Americans should be far more embarrassed by that , yet we hear nothing about changes or if any others have been caught gaming the system. This statement is indicative of what's wrong with the US, getting away with doing something evil because u can, makes u smart at being an asshole, nothing more, hardly something an ethical society should aspire to, there will ALWAYS be a way to circumvent technology, or contracts, or law, or......., and assholes will always find that way whether it be a simple gun robbery or a giant corporate conspiracy, they're called CRIMINALS! The conspiracy and hypocrisy of WV execs should land them in jail next to a whole lot of others that won't serve a day of time for equally horrid crimes, Americans should be embarrassed by how we don't hold rich criminals to any account what so ever, I think maybe 1 criminal dude went to jail over the US led collapse of the worlds economic system in 2008. ONE!!!!!
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Post by tonycamphd on May 1, 2016 4:32:45 GMT -6
I do not see this as a reflection on German people. This should be considered abysmal behavior by any reasonable human, I will never buy a vw, and consider that co dead to me.
There is nothing "smart" about doing the wrong thing? This is costing them billion$ if they'll survive it at all, real smart...
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Post by tonycamphd on Apr 30, 2016 15:54:23 GMT -6
ime tom bleed smears phase, robs power, if you're going to close mic, use gates or edit around them, if not, use minimal mics and don't mic the toms, btw, it's not either or, most gates have a range control, and then there is always clip gain for editing.
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Post by tonycamphd on Apr 29, 2016 7:44:18 GMT -6
So i've had my 2030's for about 3 years now. They always served me well, that is until today. Today the tweeter in the Left monitor started cutting out on me. I called Event and of course their warranty is 2 years and they don't have any parts available. The dude offered to email me a list of some repair shops that might be able to retrofit a tweeter for me. I said maybe retrofit means something different for you than me. Why would I want a right speaker that was factory and a left that was jerry rigged? Wha What? So now my choices are buy a new pair of monitors or look for a used 2030 and take my chances on a used tweeter. What should I do? I've been curious about these new Presonus boxes. Anyone use them around here? another consideration is to gingerly pull some parts off/out of the speaker box and look for substandard fitting/solder joints that may be causing the intermittent connection? The likelihood of a tweet blowing out(if not abused) is minimal. good luck bud btw, SUPER lame that a company like that wouldN'T back stock some parts for service?? It shows a severe lack of "givashit" factor on their part, considering a 2 year old product, I will check them off my list of viable manu's on this alone...
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Post by tonycamphd on Apr 28, 2016 18:37:30 GMT -6
Enjoy 8) https%3A//soundcloud.com/tonycamp/bottle-kneck-1998-or-soThis is SOO cool. A delicately pieced but stunning tapestry of a genres. For me at least, highlighted by a really tasty use of negative space. Tony, what was your role on this? cool! the whole van halen/beebop/comedy/poetry slam mashup thing is pretty sweet, I remember a straw in a styrofoam cup lid, a squeaky office chair, my land line telephone, and laughing a whole lot! My friend who is a beast, wrote/played guitar and did the "word", it was about his propensity toward the drink, I cant remember who played bass and programmed the grey alesis drum machine(forgot name?), he and I grew up together and played together a ton, mostly in a drummer/guitarist capacity, we sound similar when we play bass interestingly enough, same sense of time/feel/swingy style, I think it may have been him though? it doesn't come back to me easily which points to him. I'm sure it was recorded with a 57 on everything through a digi 001 with it's built in pre's.., I think? was loooooong ago! found it the other day and thought it was about as cool as shit! saw this thread and posted it, i've probably got 100 things like this buried in boxes...
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Post by tonycamphd on Apr 28, 2016 18:21:47 GMT -6
Interesting to read what you guys are hearing, I've been going with the Zen preamps for quite some time and I'm really wondering if a box of Capis would just be a nice addition to what I have if they can really add something. If you guys have examples of what these sound like particularly on drums when pushed I'd love to hear. Don't get hung up on this video, it means exactly 0, if your wondering about old school discrete API pre's against Antelope IC pre's? don't, get some CAPI Vp28's and see what the fuss is about, you can't lose, the versatility is nutz, and your drum sounds will certainly improve.
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Post by tonycamphd on Apr 28, 2016 18:14:17 GMT -6
The CLA presets on the waves Ssl channel always make me laugh out loud. 10k and 2k and 50hz cranked on everything!! How in gods name does he DO that?!?! But they really do sound like him. +50hz, -200hz, +2k +10k That's where all the fun is... you musta been havin lots of fun with these guys, haven't seen you in forever! welcome back man!
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Post by tonycamphd on Apr 27, 2016 13:53:05 GMT -6
Sand in a platform or floor is the bomb, the problem with sand in doors is it settles and packs, then it can bulge the outside panels as winetree said, or leave a void of airspace at the top between two layers of thin hardboard making them much less effective, simple 1 3/4" solid core doors are totally effective when installed properly, i have another floating design of building doors that is super effective, but requires 2 back to back, and is quite complicated and hard to explain typing it out, that method gives 0 transfer via the doors, and it doubles as a highly effective bass trap.
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Post by tonycamphd on Apr 27, 2016 7:36:12 GMT -6
Joe Malone is a seriously knowledgable, and extremely helpful guy! I must buy many of his JLM la500's!
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Post by tonycamphd on Apr 27, 2016 7:15:32 GMT -6
Hey Tony, that sounds like a nice project with lots of good tips. Any chance you could do a photo/video tutorial during the project? I can probably shoot some iPhone video at the studio, sure. Tutorial? It's basically standard door hanging with multiple high end stop seals, and automatic bottom seals, the most difficult part is pulling the existing doors and routing a dado into the bottom for the automatic bottom seal, each door is 2-1 3/4" laminated, with mass loaded membrane sandwiched in between, that needs to be hucked outside for bottom routing! At least 250lbs each! I'll take video....
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Post by tonycamphd on Apr 26, 2016 23:24:41 GMT -6
I want to put a silent/passive vid card in my mac pro tower, it's clearly the noisiest part of the rig, and i don't want to remote locate the box, anyone have a lead on a good silent/passive vid card for one of these?
thanx
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Post by tonycamphd on Apr 26, 2016 23:21:01 GMT -6
this^ is true, you're only as strong as your weakest link
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Post by tonycamphd on Apr 26, 2016 23:09:35 GMT -6
I'm going to be fixing 11 studio doors at singing serpent studio's in san diego, pretty shortly here, they were not installed properly, and they aren't sealing, i fixed one of the doors to see what kind of improvement it would make, and knocked transmission down by 15db(that is a hell of a lot!), there really aren't any "sound proof doors" that aren't super expensive snake oil, tried and true construction principles apply, just use a 1 3/4" solid core prehung door, use minimal expanding spray foam between the trimmer studs and door jambs, then coat one side or the other of the dried (shaved clean)foam with 100% silicone before casing, then seal the casing, then get a pemko mechanical door bottom seal and put it with very little tolerance on the bottom of the door, install stops after door is hung with silicone door stop seals, then get a brick of duct seal from home depot, stuff it inside the knob core with one half the door knob on, once its packed up good, put the other half of the knob on, go around and make sure there are no air leaks, the mass of a 1 3/4" solid core door, with silicone seals that are smoke rated, will be about as good as it gets for a single thickness door(which is very good), if you want more? it gets extremely heavy and expensive very quickly.
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Post by tonycamphd on Apr 26, 2016 16:23:35 GMT -6
if it ever takes a poo, just get the bo hansen pcb and build sweet active DI and drop it in the countryman case, costs about $12 haha
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Post by tonycamphd on Apr 26, 2016 16:20:13 GMT -6
this is gonna be great! i need to get a bunch of new face plates, and new capi style knobs to bring my VINTAGE Capi stuff up to the new Capn standards! 8)
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Post by tonycamphd on Apr 26, 2016 16:11:56 GMT -6
$600, and a serious bargain at that, doubt they'll stay that low for too long. Tony - you running yours into a VP28? Justin case you didn't think so, of course! 8) love it! I believe those samples i posted were through the Vp28's...
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Post by tonycamphd on Apr 26, 2016 11:26:51 GMT -6
jeez, pretty soon no one will have to hear/know any techniques to achieve anything, just use a plugin to set your image depth by eye, if the verb is of high quality? I predict this will be a uuuuge seller!
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