|
|
Post by scumbum on Apr 26, 2016 21:18:14 GMT -6
My sister is remodeling a small house and wants a really good sound proof door for the bedroom because her husband has insomnia and stays up late watching TV all night in the next room .
I saw theres a bunch of companies that have sound proof doors for sale , for like recording studio applications .
Can anyone recommend a sound proof door ? It needs to be an interior door . I told her it would be like $1,000 .
|
|
ericn
Temp
Balance Engineer
Posts: 14,953 
|
Post by ericn on Apr 26, 2016 21:41:02 GMT -6
Find your local dealer For Marshfield Doors, they have seal kits for their solid core fire proof doors, not quite a studio door not as much either!
|
|
|
|
Post by drbill on Apr 26, 2016 22:15:00 GMT -6
A "soundproofed" (impossible really, but you get the idea) JAM is equally important as the door. That means some construction. Then sealing. It's not all that complex, but not simple either. Done wrong, it's a waste of any additional cost over a solid core door. Much cheaper to have hubby wear headphones so he can crank it.
|
|
|
|
Post by LesC on Apr 26, 2016 22:51:37 GMT -6
A "soundproofed" (impossible really, but you get the idea) JAM is equally important as the door. That means some construction. Then sealing. It's not all that complex, but not simple either. Done wrong, it's a waste of any additional cost over a solid core door. Much cheaper to have hubby wear headphones so he can crank it. Excellent idea! I recently got a set of Sennheiser wireless phones (RS 165) so I could watch TV in the same room while my wife sleeps and I work. It's wonderful - clear, comfortable, built-in volume control, and the transmitter is also a docking/charging station. I couldn't be happier with it. It cost $210 Canadian on sale at Best Buy, which these days translates to about the price of a pack of gum in the US. |
|
|
|
Post by tonycamphd on Apr 26, 2016 23:09:35 GMT -6
I'm going to be fixing 11 studio doors at singing serpent studio's in san diego, pretty shortly here, they were not installed properly, and they aren't sealing, i fixed one of the doors to see what kind of improvement it would make, and knocked transmission down by 15db(that is a hell of a lot!), there really aren't any "sound proof doors" that aren't super expensive snake oil, tried and true construction principles apply, just use a 1 3/4" solid core prehung door, use minimal expanding spray foam between the trimmer studs and door jambs, then coat one side or the other of the dried (shaved clean)foam with 100% silicone before casing, then seal the casing, then get a pemko mechanical door bottom seal and put it with very little tolerance on the bottom of the door, install stops after door is hung with silicone door stop seals, then get a brick of duct seal from home depot, stuff it inside the knob core with one half the door knob on, once its packed up good, put the other half of the knob on, go around and make sure there are no air leaks, the mass of a 1 3/4" solid core door, with silicone seals that are smoke rated, will be about as good as it gets for a single thickness door(which is very good), if you want more? it gets extremely heavy and expensive very quickly.
|
|
|
|
Post by donr on Apr 26, 2016 23:17:07 GMT -6
I replaced the master bedroom door in my house with an exterior solid core door and metal frame and jam with weatherstripping. The door does a good job for security purposes, but the plain studwall and single sheetrock layers between it and the next room is useless for sound mitigation. The door itself is pretty good because of the mass and weatherstrip. The wall the door is on will be the weak area for sound transmission. Headphones, good idea.
|
|
|
|
Post by tonycamphd on Apr 26, 2016 23:21:01 GMT -6
this^ is true, you're only as strong as your weakest link
|
|
|
|
Post by keymod on Apr 27, 2016 2:59:09 GMT -6
Hey Tony, that sounds like a nice project with lots of good tips. Any chance you could do a photo/video tutorial during the project?
|
|
|
|
Post by tonycamphd on Apr 27, 2016 7:15:32 GMT -6
Hey Tony, that sounds like a nice project with lots of good tips. Any chance you could do a photo/video tutorial during the project? I can probably shoot some iPhone video at the studio, sure. Tutorial? It's basically standard door hanging with multiple high end stop seals, and automatic bottom seals, the most difficult part is pulling the existing doors and routing a dado into the bottom for the automatic bottom seal, each door is 2-1 3/4" laminated, with mass loaded membrane sandwiched in between, that needs to be hucked outside for bottom routing! At least 250lbs each! I'll take video.... |
|
|
|
Post by Ward on Apr 27, 2016 10:47:43 GMT -6
Hey Tony, that sounds like a nice project with lots of good tips. Any chance you could do a photo/video tutorial during the project? I can probably shoot some iPhone video at the studio, sure. Tutorial? It's basically standard door hanging with multiple high end stop seals, and automatic bottom seals, the most difficult part is pulling the existing doors and routing a dado into the bottom for the automatic bottom seal, each door is 2-1 3/4" laminated, with mass loaded membrane sandwiched in between, that needs to be hucked outside for bottom routing! At least 250lbs each! I'll take video.... I'm curious to see this too! You are quite the resource when it comes to everything studio related! |
|
|
|
Post by svart on Apr 27, 2016 11:09:11 GMT -6
I took a "hollow" door and a couple of those super long drill bits that electricians use to drill through studs in walls, and drilled holes down through the door..
So I could fill it with sand.
It takes a while to do, but the door becomes very heavy and dense.
|
|
|
|
Post by winetree on Apr 27, 2016 11:34:31 GMT -6
I took a "hollow" door and a couple of those super long drill bits that electricians use to drill through studs in walls, and drilled holes down through the door.. So I could fill it with sand. It takes a while to do, but the door becomes very heavy and dense. I did that years ago to a hollow core door. After opening and closing the door over time, the sand settled to the bottom and the lower portion of the door got fat. One day I walked into the studio and the door was laying on the floor. Lucky it just missed the equipment by inches. Since then, Solid core doors, 3 heavy duty hinges and proper treatment. |
|
|
|
Post by svart on Apr 27, 2016 12:27:03 GMT -6
I took a "hollow" door and a couple of those super long drill bits that electricians use to drill through studs in walls, and drilled holes down through the door.. So I could fill it with sand. It takes a while to do, but the door becomes very heavy and dense. I did that years ago to a hollow core door. After opening and closing the door over time, the sand settled to the bottom and the lower portion of the door got fat. One day I walked into the studio and the door was laying on the floor. Lucky it just missed the equipment by inches. Since then, Solid core doors, 3 heavy duty hinges and proper treatment. Interesting. I used that door for like 10 years and never had that issue. I suppose it boils down to the build quality of the door. For my current studio, I built a door that is much wider (wheelchair access wide) out of 3/8 MDF with 2x2 sides and bottom and center rib. I filled it with about 100lbs of sand and put 3 heavy duty hinges on it. It works great but is super heavy. |
|
|
|
Post by tonycamphd on Apr 27, 2016 13:53:05 GMT -6
Sand in a platform or floor is the bomb, the problem with sand in doors is it settles and packs, then it can bulge the outside panels as winetree said, or leave a void of airspace at the top between two layers of thin hardboard making them much less effective, simple 1 3/4" solid core doors are totally effective when installed properly, i have another floating design of building doors that is super effective, but requires 2 back to back, and is quite complicated and hard to explain typing it out, that method gives 0 transfer via the doors, and it doubles as a highly effective bass trap.
|
|
|
|
Post by scumbum on Apr 28, 2016 22:49:47 GMT -6
I replaced the master bedroom door in my house with an exterior solid core door and metal frame and jam with weatherstripping. The door does a good job for security purposes, but the plain studwall and single sheetrock layers between it and the next room is useless for sound mitigation. The door itself is pretty good because of the mass and weatherstrip. The wall the door is on will be the weak area for sound transmission. Headphones, good idea. I told my sister that the guy from blue oyster cult said for him to just wear headphones .....that surprised her very much and finally shes listening to me for once . I'm thinking of telling her that you also said to give me $50 ......... |
|
|
|
Post by donr on Apr 30, 2016 22:26:21 GMT -6
I replaced the master bedroom door in my house with an exterior solid core door and metal frame and jam with weatherstripping. The door does a good job for security purposes, but the plain studwall and single sheetrock layers between it and the next room is useless for sound mitigation. The door itself is pretty good because of the mass and weatherstrip. The wall the door is on will be the weak area for sound transmission. Headphones, good idea. I told my sister that the guy from blue oyster cult said for him to just wear headphones .....that surprised her very much and finally shes listening to me for once . I'm thinking of telling her that you also said to give me $50 ......... Ha. You can try it, but it'll probably diminish the weight of the other advice. : ) And hat tip to who said headphones first. |
|
|
|
Post by Ward on May 1, 2016 20:30:15 GMT -6
I replaced the master bedroom door in my house with an exterior solid core door and metal frame and jam with weatherstripping. The door does a good job for security purposes, but the plain studwall and single sheetrock layers between it and the next room is useless for sound mitigation. The door itself is pretty good because of the mass and weatherstrip. The wall the door is on will be the weak area for sound transmission. Headphones, good idea. I told my sister that the guy from blue oyster cult said for him to just wear headphones .....that surprised her very much and finally shes listening to me for once . I'm thinking of telling her that you also said to give me $50 ......... Ahem. The Donald also said you have to send me half. Paypal will be fine. (since we're telling lies here) |
|
|
|
Post by NoFilterChuck on May 1, 2016 21:50:25 GMT -6
|
|
|
|
Post by Ward on May 2, 2016 6:14:59 GMT -6
Chuck's pointers on appropriate reference to the parts of a door box are great.
Also, don't forget when installing a heavier door that the door frame itself needs reinforcement and often times, extra jack studs are needed on both hinge and lock sides of the frame that the door box is mounted into. Doubling up on the header is also wise, as the jack studs need reinforcement.
|
|
ericn
Temp
Balance Engineer
Posts: 14,953
|
Post by ericn on May 2, 2016 10:41:32 GMT -6
Chuck's pointers on appropriate reference to the parts of a door box are great. Also, don't forget when installing a heavier door that the door frame itself needs reinforcement and often times, extra jack studs are needed on both hinge and lock sides of the frame that the door box is mounted into. Doubling up on the header is also wise, as the jack studs need reinforcement. And don't forget the Acustic caulk!! |
|
