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Post by levon on Jan 11, 2014 3:38:52 GMT -6
Just got up and look what happened to this thread, wow  . Robert, great to have you here. I'm definitely in the market for a faithful LA2A reproduction at an affordable price!! Pondering a Pultec but I have the Retro 2A3 already... Then, there's my constant lust for an SSL Bus comp... Svart, it's great that you can build your own stuff, so ProReplicas is probably not for you. Wish I could do it but I don't want to build stuff, I want to make music, so Robert's service is worth the cost for me. Ward, congrats on pulling the trigger, looking forward to your comments when it arrives. |
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Post by littlesicily on Jan 11, 2014 11:11:55 GMT -6
If anyone in the Nashville area orders an 1176, I'd love to hear it next to mine UREI's.
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Post by littlesicily on Jan 13, 2014 11:30:56 GMT -6
I asked a few others who are knowledgeable in DIY to look at the ProReplicas and one person had some concerns/questions that I thought might be worth asking here. I am just copy/pasting the comments and they are not my own, though i'd be interested in the answers.
1) Why not use NOS tubes, original transformers and inductors, since the name suggests "replica"?
2) Using brand names to sell products is illegal in the US.
3) Their cases are missing CE labels, voltage rating, serial number, fuse rating, etc. Without a serial number they cannot prove that they did an electrical safety test (which they hopefully did anyway, including it´s documentation). Putting just a CE sticker on a case - like on their Pultec picture - with all other required information missing is unacceptable. Electrical safety issues?
So, maybe the owner can answer these as well as any other knowledgable DIY'ers.
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Post by tonycamphd on Jan 13, 2014 11:47:45 GMT -6
He's probably just a DIY guy trying to make a little $ on the side, he should state that clearly though, I was also tripping on the actual names being used???
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Post by Johnkenn on Jan 13, 2014 13:26:42 GMT -6
Certainly valid concerns... svart forgive me if I came off rude in response to you... |
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Post by proreplicas on Jan 13, 2014 13:44:51 GMT -6
I asked a few others who are knowledgeable in DIY to look at the ProReplicas and one person had some concerns/questions that I thought might be worth asking here. I am just copy/pasting the comments and they are not my own, though i'd be interested in the answers. 1) Why not use NOS tubes, original transformers and inductors, since the name suggests "replica"? 2) Using brand names to sell products is illegal in the US. 3) Their cases are missing CE labels, voltage rating, serial number, fuse rating, etc. Without a serial number they cannot prove that they did an electrical safety test (which they hopefully did anyway, including it´s documentation). Putting just a CE sticker on a case - like on their Pultec picture - with all other required information missing is unacceptable. Electrical safety issues? So, maybe the owner can answer these as well as any other knowledgable DIY'ers. I will answer in turn: 1) I use the names the clone and replica interchangeably, some my units, for example revision G, are more replicas than clones, other are more clones, but every based on original schematic. How do you imagine perform, even in small quantities, units based on the NOS of components, at such a low price and to be reproducible? It's not feasible. 2) Brand names, which you have on the mind are only registered in United States Patent and Trademark Office's. I'm from EU, and protection of trademarks in U.S. does not include EU area. These names should be registered in WIPO or OHIM. I don't make sale on area U.S. only in EU. By the way, I think to use own names on the front panels soon. 3) CE labels are on every unit, only on some pictures on web side are without these labels because they was made before intended for sale. When it comes to about certificate CE here haven't problem, I, as producer, can issue such a certificate. Label with power voltage or serial number is also on sold units. Robert Darowski www.proreplicas.com |
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Post by littlesicily on Jan 13, 2014 14:03:13 GMT -6
Robert, thank you for replying and for the information. I'm sure it's helpful for potential buyers to hear more about your products.
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Post by henge on Jan 14, 2014 15:20:17 GMT -6
Sweeet! Thanks Robert for the information.
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Post by Ward on Jan 17, 2014 14:11:56 GMT -6
Anxiously awaiting my 1176 Bluestripe from ProReplicas! Filthy lucre has exchanged hands, and shipping details have been completed. Now at the mercy of UPS. I'll let you all know my experience as soon as it arrives! I may even make a demonstration video!
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Post by Ward on Jan 24, 2014 9:58:22 GMT -6
It's here! I've got it unboxed now... and now I have to rearrange gear and make space for it in the appropriate position. Bear with me, I'll get to that review in due course and maybe the video too!
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Post by Johnkenn on Jan 24, 2014 10:01:41 GMT -6
Hell yeah! PICS
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Post by Johnkenn on Jan 24, 2014 10:02:36 GMT -6
BTW - which one did you get?
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Post by LesC on Jan 24, 2014 13:43:08 GMT -6
I've never hear of ProReplicas before, but this is fascinating stuff. Welcome, Robert, I hope we'll hear more from you!
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Post by Johnkenn on Jan 24, 2014 13:52:29 GMT -6
Ward...what's the verdict?
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Post by Ward on Jan 24, 2014 14:48:59 GMT -6
@johnkenn, still haven't got it powered up yet... may need some state-side fuses! I'll let you guys know ASAP. There are quite a few in great studios in Europe tho, so I'm expecting the best!
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Post by henge on Jan 24, 2014 15:04:14 GMT -6
Nice!!
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Post by proreplicas on Jan 24, 2014 15:31:34 GMT -6
Ward.. Do unit not start after switch on? If yes, it probably burned fuse. I had last customer from USA and there also was burned fuse after first run.. I prepare units on 115 V but also check on 120V, and it work good at this value of fuse. I suspect, that in North America can be sometimes a little more than 120V. You must only give fuse some higher, 400mA or 500mA (slow). I must take this into account at the next units.. Robert Darowski www.proreplicas.com |
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Post by jcoutu1 on Jan 24, 2014 15:51:52 GMT -6
Ward.. Do unit not start after switch on? If yes, it probably burned fuse. I had last customer from USA and there also was burned fuse after first run.. I prepare units on 115 V but also check on 120V, and it work good at this value of fuse. I suspect, that in North America can be sometimes a little more than 120V. You must only give fuse some higher, 400mA or 500mA (slow). I must take this into account at the next units.. Robert Darowski www.proreplicas.comI just came across this on youtube... You should invest the profit from Wards purchase for a better camera! Pultec sounds pretty good from the video though. I like how many different sources were used. Thanks. |
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Post by Johnkenn on Jan 24, 2014 18:42:01 GMT -6
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Post by littlesicily on Jan 24, 2014 21:01:27 GMT -6
Yeah, chop chop... haha
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Post by matt on Jan 24, 2014 21:45:40 GMT -6
There's got to be a Radio Shack open late somewhere!
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Post by Johnkenn on Jan 24, 2014 21:55:49 GMT -6
I feel like singing some Ke$ha.
You know, Tick Tock.
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Post by levon on Jan 25, 2014 2:00:48 GMT -6
Oh, the excitement. Kids in a candy store  |
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Post by henge on Jan 25, 2014 6:25:53 GMT -6
I feel like singing some Ke$ha. You know, Tick Tock. Gotta admit to not being up on my Kesha. Thought it was a grain... |
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Post by Ward on Jan 25, 2014 7:33:16 GMT -6
Everything's fine now. Just a simple fuse. I plugged in the unit and tested it conjunction with a new UA1176, the Mohog 76 and just for shits and giggles, an LA3a and an LA4. Did some back and forth... listened to and measured noise levels between all those units and I can honesly say I am extremely impressed.
Robert, you have done a fantastic job!!
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. Robert, great to have you here. I'm definitely in the market for a faithful LA2A reproduction at an affordable price!! Pondering a Pultec but I have the Retro 2A3 already... Then, there's my constant lust for an SSL Bus comp...
