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Post by Mister Chase on Aug 19, 2021 8:14:07 GMT -6
How many of you guys are using the Lynx itself as a monitor controller? Do you find it’s simple/effective enough? I’m used to using the front knob on the Apollo x8. And still waiting on cables to hook up my lynx and finally try it out and wondering if I should pick up a cheap Mackie passive controller there’s one near me for 50$. The other option is using my Apollo twin as a monitor controller, but I don’t know if that’s possible without coloring the sound. I use the Mackie big knob passive here. Would prefer one of the drawmers some day. But it works |
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Post by OtisGreying on Aug 19, 2021 18:56:38 GMT -6
I think the latest update allows you to assign the main rotary knob as “push in to mute”. That gives you volume and mute at your fingertips. If you need to switch between multiple monitors, I think you’ll need to do that in the N control app. For me, I wish they would have packed more monitor controller functionality on the front and scraped the sd recorder, as I will never use it. Regardless, I’d wait and see how it is for you in use before dropping coin. And save up a few more for something better than a Mackie to use with the Lynx. It might color the sound, negating the dollars you spent on the Lynx for its conversion transparency. So it’s got more or less as much functionality as the Apollo rack mounts as far as monitoring. Cool. Only thing is I’m guessing you need to use another 2 channels of conversion for an alternative set of monitors so a monitor controller could save you 2 channels of conversion and be a bit more convenient I guess. |
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Post by kcatthedog on Aug 19, 2021 19:04:16 GMT -6
Why not just use one of the headphone outs?
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Post by indiehouse on Aug 19, 2021 20:23:13 GMT -6
I think the latest update allows you to assign the main rotary knob as “push in to mute”. That gives you volume and mute at your fingertips. If you need to switch between multiple monitors, I think you’ll need to do that in the N control app. For me, I wish they would have packed more monitor controller functionality on the front and scraped the sd recorder, as I will never use it. Regardless, I’d wait and see how it is for you in use before dropping coin. And save up a few more for something better than a Mackie to use with the Lynx. It might color the sound, negating the dollars you spent on the Lynx for its conversion transparency. So it’s got more or less as much functionality as the Apollo rack mounts as far as monitoring. Cool. Only thing is I’m guessing you need to use another 2 channels of conversion for an alternative set of monitors so a monitor controller could save you 2 channels of conversion and be a bit more convenient I guess. Correct. And that’s another bummer. I mentioned that I picked up a used Coleman M3 for around 400 or so. Doesn’t have a lot of bells and whistles, but does allow me to toggle out to three sets of monitors on a single stereo input. BUT, if I ever see a used Aurora n card pop up, I might snag it and ditch the controller. |
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Post by nick8801 on Aug 20, 2021 8:03:58 GMT -6
I use one of those new Heritage RAM controllers. The passive one. It’s great. 2 sets of inputs/outputs, mono, dim, and mute. For my little project studio it’s perfect. Feels really good under my fingers too.
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Post by OtisGreying on Aug 29, 2021 2:16:29 GMT -6
Trying to figure out how to connect my speakers to which are XLR to TRS to my lynx which is DB25s. I only have DB25 to XLR snakes. How are you guys connecting the speakers to the lynx?
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Post by kcatthedog on Aug 29, 2021 2:53:50 GMT -6
Db25 to trs patchbay.
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Post by OtisGreying on Aug 29, 2021 3:19:12 GMT -6
My patchbay is also DB25, I guess I’m going to connect my speakers with XLR to XLR cables to the patchbay with the DB25 to XLR snake and patch/ normal my speakers into the lynx somehow? Christ patchbays are absurdly confusing, I’m realizing how badly I want a flock |
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Post by indiehouse on Aug 29, 2021 5:54:12 GMT -6
My patchbay is also DB25, I guess I’m going to connect my speakers with XLR to XLR cables to the patchbay with the DB25 to XLR snake and patch/ normal my speakers into the lynx somehow? Christ patchbays are absurdly confusing, I’m realizing how badly I want a flock Eh, patchbay routing is a breeze once you get it. For my Aurora mains, one of my options was to have my mains going through my patchbay, but I opted not to do that. I roll my own DB25 cables, so I just split out lines 1-2 from the DB25 Aurora output and ran that into my Coleman monitor controller. But apart from that, in your setup, normalling through your patchbay is certainly an option. |
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Post by nick8801 on Aug 29, 2021 6:15:00 GMT -6
DB25 to patch bay. 1/4 inch out to monitor controller.
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Post by OtisGreying on Aug 29, 2021 6:26:27 GMT -6
My patchbay is also DB25, I guess I’m going to connect my speakers with XLR to XLR cables to the patchbay with the DB25 to XLR snake and patch/ normal my speakers into the lynx somehow? Christ patchbays are absurdly confusing, I’m realizing how badly I want a flock Eh, patchbay routing is a breeze once you get it. For my Aurora mains, one of my options was to have my mains going through my patchbay, but I opted not to do that. I roll my own DB25 cables, so I just split out lines 1-2 from the DB25 Aurora output and ran that into my Coleman monitor controller. But apart from that, in your setup, normalling through your patchbay is certainly an option. I think I’m gonna have to not do the patchbay for speakers as well. I’m thinking of connecting an XLR male to female cable to my speaker and connecting that to my XLR snake into my Lynx and hopefully getting it to work that way. No need for TRS I think |
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Post by OtisGreying on Aug 29, 2021 20:54:58 GMT -6
Got speakers hooked up. Lynx DA is awesome. I’m hearing way more panning separation and more percussion and reverb trails by far. Really impressive.
Unrelated question if anyone can help. Does 48v phantom power need to come directly after the mic in a chain for it to work? I have my MA5 with 48v coming second in the chain after my Coil preamp, but I pressed 48v and wasn’t able to get signal from my mic.
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Post by indiehouse on Aug 29, 2021 21:06:14 GMT -6
Got speakers hooked up. Lynx DA is awesome. I’m hearing way more panning separation and more percussion and reverb trails by far. Really impressive. Unrelated question if anyone can help. Does 48v phantom power need to come directly after the mic in a chain for it to work? I have my MA5 with 48v coming second in the chain after my Coil preamp, but I pressed 48v and wasn’t able to get signal from my mic. Yes! You’re sending 48v to your Coil. Don’t do that! |
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Post by OtisGreying on Aug 29, 2021 21:12:26 GMT -6
Got speakers hooked up. Lynx DA is awesome. I’m hearing way more panning separation and more percussion and reverb trails by far. Really impressive. Unrelated question if anyone can help. Does 48v phantom power need to come directly after the mic in a chain for it to work? I have my MA5 with 48v coming second in the chain after my Coil preamp, but I pressed 48v and wasn’t able to get signal from my mic. Yes! You’re sending 48v to your Coil. Don’t do that! Darn, well I did for about 20 seconds, hopefully I didn’t hurt anything. Facepalm |
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Post by OtisGreying on Sept 2, 2021 2:21:29 GMT -6
I think the latest update allows you to assign the main rotary knob as “push in to mute”. That gives you volume and mute at your fingertips. If you need to switch between multiple monitors, I think you’ll need to do that in the N control app. For me, I wish they would have packed more monitor controller functionality on the front and scraped the sd recorder, as I will never use it. Regardless, I’d wait and see how it is for you in use before dropping coin. And save up a few more for something better than a Mackie to use with the Lynx. It might color the sound, negating the dollars you spent on the Lynx for its conversion transparency. indiehouse, any idea where to go in Aurora or Ncontrol to set this function up? I can't seem to figure it out. I have the latest Ncontrol software but I press the rotary knob and it just goes to menu. |
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Post by indiehouse on Sept 2, 2021 4:42:54 GMT -6
I think the latest update allows you to assign the main rotary knob as “push in to mute”. That gives you volume and mute at your fingertips. If you need to switch between multiple monitors, I think you’ll need to do that in the N control app. For me, I wish they would have packed more monitor controller functionality on the front and scraped the sd recorder, as I will never use it. Regardless, I’d wait and see how it is for you in use before dropping coin. And save up a few more for something better than a Mackie to use with the Lynx. It might color the sound, negating the dollars you spent on the Lynx for its conversion transparency. indiehouse, any idea where to go in Aurora or Ncontrol to set this function up? I can't seem to figure it out. I have the latest Ncontrol software but I press the rotary knob and it just goes to menu. I think you can access that in settings on the front panel. |
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Post by kcatthedog on Sept 2, 2021 4:50:42 GMT -6
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Post by OtisGreying on Sept 2, 2021 14:14:11 GMT -6
Eagerly waiting to be accepted to the group... Thanks kcatt |
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Post by gouge on Sept 2, 2021 15:20:36 GMT -6
Got speakers hooked up. Lynx DA is awesome. I’m hearing way more panning separation and more percussion and reverb trails by far. Really impressive. Unrelated question if anyone can help. Does 48v phantom power need to come directly after the mic in a chain for it to work? I have my MA5 with 48v coming second in the chain after my Coil preamp, but I pressed 48v and wasn’t able to get signal from my mic. ma5 isnt line level. if i understand you and if you have the ma5 after your coil pre you will probably need to pad the signal down to mic level before the ma5. and no 48v avedis sells pads for people wanting to use the ma5 at line level. |
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Post by viciousbliss on Jul 28, 2022 13:45:23 GMT -6
I was thinking about getting one of these or an E series PCIE card. Since I bought a Fusion after trying it on Access Analog, I've been pretty dissatisfied with the sound I get through my Apollo Twin by comparison. The Aurora N just takes all the bad stuff out and makes my mixes sound almost like finished records before mastering at times. Originally, I just assumed it was the Fusion doing it. But, I did some more tests last night with mixes I ran through AA's Aurora and a Lynx rendered mix with just the Softube Overstayer and Oxford Limiter on it sounded better than an Apollo Twin rendered mix put through Fusion and then bounced with the Apollo Twin again. It almost feels like I could go without more hardware if I had Lynx conversion. So, I've read that these E series PCIE cards are supposedly even better than the Aurora N. But they really can't take the place of an audio interface, right? I've read the manual and I'm still not sure exactly how they work. Then I've read on various forums that people like other things better than the Aurora N. The Cranborne 500r8 was one recommendation I saw. Maybe I'll get more hardware, maybe not. I do like having the option to hook up a lot to the Aurora N. Anyway, I thought I'd ask everyone here their thoughts on Lynx vs others. Thanks in advance.
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Post by sance21 on Jul 28, 2022 17:04:44 GMT -6
Hey there, I have some similar thoughts on a few things you mentioned regarding conversion. I had a Scarlett Focusrite 18i6 (that.....yeah) for probably 6-8 years before I finally decided to go hybrid and get some outboard gear. 2019, I purchased a Stam SA-4000 comp and a LTL Silver Bullet right after. I emulated my chain as a copy, like yourself, through Access Analog along with their Lynx. When I compared my recording vs AA's, I realized how much I'd lost in translation. With the Scarlett, it was like a fuzzy haze over the entire mix, especially the higher register frequencies. I was on the fence on whether it would be a Lynx Hilo or Aurora but decided to go with the Aurora (n) because of the number of I/O. Being fully transparent, when I got my unit shipped, my (n) had a weird distortion in it that was driving me insane for weeks. I thought I had a faulty wire in the chain before Lynx support all but confirmed it was a rare short in the Aurora board. Sent it in for repairs, got back fine. When I did another test with my Lynx chain vs AA it was pretty much the same this time. Only thing I didn't like was you can't really push the gain on it before it breaks up in a nasty way and pretty quickly. By this time, I had expanded my outboard to quite the number with an BB HG2, Neve MBP, some Audioscape units, etc. Referencing the gain on test masters being pushed closer to the level limit, I knew the Mix Analog site at the time had a Burl B2 Bomber ADC. Running mixes on their site through, there was that big level mojo thickness and rounded weight when really driving the gain without breaking up so fast, alas the Lynx that I liked. So I kept my Lynx (n) as the DA which goes through the chain all the way to the Burl B2 connected via AES for the ADC. This setup gives me the option to keep the Burl coloration while getting loud level if I choose or staying with the transparency of the Lynx. I have the USB version of the Lynx but it gets the job done great and I don't hear much changes when testing my current setup against AA and Mix Analog now. Pic is right before I installed the Burl, hence the wires below, lol.  |
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Post by kcatthedog on Jul 29, 2022 2:14:00 GMT -6
In terms of Aurora connectivity, lynx is shipping the new I/o module, which looks interesting for more hardware and or possibly monitor set ups. www.lynxstudio.com/products/lm-a24/ |
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Post by viciousbliss on Jul 29, 2022 14:07:26 GMT -6
Hey there, I have some similar thoughts on a few things you mentioned regarding conversion. I had a Scarlett Focusrite 18i6 (that.....yeah) for probably 6-8 years before I finally decided to go hybrid and get some outboard gear. 2019, I purchased a Stam SA-4000 comp and a LTL Silver Bullet right after. I emulated my chain as a copy, like yourself, through Access Analog along with their Lynx. When I compared my recording vs AA's, I realized how much I'd lost in translation. With the Scarlett, it was like a fuzzy haze over the entire mix, especially the higher register frequencies. I was on the fence on whether it would be a Lynx Hilo or Aurora but decided to go with the Aurora (n) because of the number of I/O. Being fully transparent, when I got my unit shipped, my (n) had a weird distortion in it that was driving me insane for weeks. I thought I had a faulty wire in the chain before Lynx support all but confirmed it was a rare short in the Aurora board. Sent it in for repairs, got back fine. When I did another test with my Lynx chain vs AA it was pretty much the same this time. Only thing I didn't like was you can't really push the gain on it before it breaks up in a nasty way and pretty quickly. By this time, I had expanded my outboard to quite the number with an BB HG2, Neve MBP, some Audioscape units, etc. Referencing the gain on test masters being pushed closer to the level limit, I knew the Mix Analog site at the time had a Burl B2 Bomber ADC. Running mixes on their site through, there was that big level mojo thickness and rounded weight when really driving the gain without breaking up so fast, alas the Lynx that I liked. So I kept my Lynx (n) as the DA which goes through the chain all the way to the Burl B2 connected via AES for the ADC. This setup gives me the option to keep the Burl coloration while getting loud level if I choose or staying with the transparency of the Lynx. I have the USB version of the Lynx but it gets the job done great and I don't hear much changes when testing my current setup against AA and Mix Analog now. Pic is right before I installed the Burl, hence the wires below, lol. View AttachmentThanks for confirming what I suspected. And for the other info. I'm going to keep researching. I still haven't tried my ID14 with Fusion. Supposedly cables don't matter much. AA isn't bragging about cables at all. The Aurora N may be good enough that I could just sell Fusion and be completely ITB. I'd love to test a lot of stuff. In a lot of plugin vs hardware videos, we don't get much info on the converters. |
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Post by OtisGreying on Jul 29, 2022 17:41:08 GMT -6
Anyone using a second converter from a different brand with the Lynx for more I/o? Can anyone share how difficult/easy that process is? Im wondering if I’ll have problems in sessions running lots of instances of hardware inserts from multiple (different brand) converters.
I originally planned on another Lynx but the outboard I want is actually very cheap and makes more sense to buy a cheaper converter to run it.
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Post by Deleted on Jul 29, 2022 17:54:00 GMT -6
Anyone using a second converter from a different brand with the Lynx for more I/o? Can anyone share how difficult/easy that process is? Im wondering if I’ll have problems in sessions running lots of instances of hardware inserts from multiple (different brand) converters. I originally planned on another Lynx but the outboard I want is actually very cheap and makes more sense to buy a cheaper converter to run it. I had my MOTU 1248 sync'd to the Aurora via wordclock, it worked absolutely fine as an aggregate on MAC. I'm not sure I entirely trust the clock drift function available when aggregating so if you are going to do it make sure the secondary device has WC.. |
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