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Post by dandeurloo on Apr 13, 2015 20:02:21 GMT -6
Yeah, each of the 1731's took about 45-50 mins.
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Post by stribor1 on Apr 14, 2015 6:21:08 GMT -6
One unit up and running, did the 3x1731 myself, everything fired up right from the bench. Just finished the calibration, quick soundcheck, works great on drums!!! I'm ordering a second one. Anyhow, any instructions on the THD N measurement? Don't have any analyzers just my DAW (Windows, Cubase, RME HDSPe AES32, Mytek 8x192) can someone recommend an plug-in or easy to use app?
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Post by jsteiger on Apr 14, 2015 8:27:43 GMT -6
Anyhow, any instructions on the THD N measurement? Don't have any analyzers just my DAW (Windows, Cubase, RME HDSPe AES32, Mytek 8x192) can someone recommend an plug-in or easy to use app? The only instructions are what is in the posted doc at groupdiy. I am not a DAW guy but assume there is some sort of software THD analyzer that can be used. I will investigate and see what I can find out. With all of the Hairball kits that are out there, I am sure there is a plug-in of some sort that folks are using.
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Post by jsteiger on Apr 14, 2015 8:39:53 GMT -6
I did some googling and found this for a Windows machine. I found the link in a SoundOnSound article www.sillanumsoft.org
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Post by tonycamphd on Apr 14, 2015 8:44:21 GMT -6
stribor1 welcome, I would download the spectrafoo demo for 30 days after reading thoroughly how to use it.
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Post by jeromemason on Apr 16, 2015 1:12:08 GMT -6
Got mine in the mail earlier today... can't wait to build it, have a few other things to do first, but I'm so eager to get to work on this baby. I do have a few questions jsteigerCan you email me the build threads on the 1731's? And has Chung got his build guide up yet, or what are us early folks using? I know Randy and I are probably going to build ours together so I want to study up before we dive into it, makes things much quicker for me. Thanks! I think this baby will be the ultimate vox comp, from what I heard over at Randy's the 1731's seemed so much more transparent and allowed the vocal to be massive w/o sounding clamped. Soon as I can move some more gear I'll be buying another, honestly this compressor does what a FET does, but has the character of a VCA.... amazing what you've done here Jeff.
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Post by jsteiger on Apr 16, 2015 8:41:43 GMT -6
Sorry Jerome, I fell behind a day on emailing out supports docs. You should have it now.
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Post by keymod on Apr 17, 2015 16:19:10 GMT -6
The 1731's are a little bit easier actually. Does anyone else feel that it's easier to install the Millmax pins first? Gary, what are your thoughts on that step? Specific reason? I just started this next batch of fifteen for Jeff's Compressors, and I found it awkward doing the pins as stated in the build guide sequence. The other 1731s that I built for my CAPI 553s I did the pins first and found it easier, after following the build guide on the first couple I did.
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Post by jsteiger on Apr 17, 2015 18:17:58 GMT -6
I always do them last myself.
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Post by NoFilterChuck on Apr 17, 2015 21:41:09 GMT -6
not me. I stick them in the sockets on the main board, then sit the empty PCB down on them, and solder the pins in. then I pull them out and start stuffing them via the build thread. the main PCB acts as an installation jig for the millmax pins.
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Post by keymod on Apr 18, 2015 4:47:02 GMT -6
not me. I stick them in the sockets on the main board, then sit the empty PCB down on them, and solder the pins in. then I pull them out and start stuffing them via the build thread. the main PCB acts as an installation jig for the millmax pins. I'm going to try that way today
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Post by gar381 on Apr 19, 2015 15:45:21 GMT -6
The 1731's are a little bit easier actually. Does anyone else feel that it's easier to install the Millmax pins first? Gary, what are your thoughts on that step? Specific reason? I just started this next batch of fifteen for Jeff's Compressors, and I found it awkward doing the pins as stated in the build guide sequence. The other 1731s that I built for my CAPI 553s I did the pins first and found it easier, after following the build guide on the first couple I did. These dazes after building 100s of these, I think doing the pins last is easiest for me. The way bannedchuck does them is the way chung does them in one of his build illustrations and works great. Either way is fine. groupdiy.com/index.php?topic=38564.msg660760#msg660760If you do them last put the PCB in a bench vise, keep the PCB level and solder from the bottom only. Hopes this helps guys Gary
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Post by jsteiger on Apr 19, 2015 19:36:12 GMT -6
I am nearly caught up with the slew of orders from the last few days. Enough so that I was able to get an accurate inventory. I have six 2623-1's left over that I just added to the store. That means there are six FC526's up for grabs!
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Post by stribor1 on Apr 21, 2015 6:25:47 GMT -6
not me. I stick them in the sockets on the main board, then sit the empty PCB down on them, and solder the pins in. then I pull them out and start stuffing them via the build thread. the main PCB acts as an installation jig for the millmax pins. +1, works best for me too
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Post by winetree on Apr 21, 2015 13:39:31 GMT -6
I always do them last myself. +1 on the D.O.A. pins. The firstly soldered pins get in the way of the soldering iron when soldering in the components. I also use a socketed built card, place the pins in, P.S.B. over and solder. Pins are aways aligned that way.
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Post by jsteiger on Apr 21, 2015 13:51:03 GMT -6
I always do them last myself. +1 on the D.O.A. pins. The firstly soldered pins get in the way of the soldering iron when soldering in the components. I also use a socketed built card, place the pins in, P.S.B. over and solder. Pins are aways aligned that way. Exactly! Worn out minds think alike
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Post by dandeurloo on May 6, 2015 13:07:57 GMT -6
I got my pair going today. They sound cool. I have been doing a good amount of comparing them to a number of my other compressors. I also have been trying all Red Dots and all 1731's. Like normal, I prefer the all Red Dot versions better. They are more even sounding, and punchy. The 1731's seem to have a strange mid range push that I don't love and are slow sounding. It is subtle and probably hard to hear in a printed track, but in person I can hear it. It is one of those things I would use an eq to try and fix.
Time for me to go rob a Red Dot bank! I need another 6. haha
I don't normally use 2:1 ratio but I think I could find a number of uses for it with these comps. I need to keep messing around with them and try some really heavy compression and see how they handle that. So far so good!
A side note: They look super cool in the rack!
EDIT / ADDITIONAL LISTENING:
These comps do like some heavy compression. Once I tried the heavier compression I noticed a few things that some people may like in the tone of the 1731's. The 1731's have a muddy/build up to my ears in the 300hz area that I personally don't love on most sources. However, if you are into modern rock and love "THAT" snare tone then use the 1731's. They will get you there a lot quicker or if you are tracking a higher voiced singer that lacks some bottom end then maybe the 1731's will work nice for ya.
After hearing this I tested the 1731's in each position with a RD's in the other 2 positons to see if I could find a sweet spot for the 1731's. In the end I like either all RD's or the 1731 in the just the preamp stage. The later was a nice blend of the 2.
Overall, the comps are really nice sounding, flexible and I can't wait to really put them to use. They bumped a few of my other comps down a notch for sure.
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Post by winetree on May 6, 2015 15:44:13 GMT -6
Has any one tried an all "I.C." version? I.C. DOA In the Receiver and VVR Signal Preamp position and I.C. BB2521 in output.
P.S. I just noticed that the BB2521 is no longer offered on the C.A.P.I site.
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Post by jsteiger on May 6, 2015 16:01:51 GMT -6
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Post by Johnkenn on May 6, 2015 17:20:13 GMT -6
I got my pair going today. They sound cool. I have been doing a good amount of comparing them to a number of my other compressors. I also have been trying all Red Dots and all 1731's. Like normal, I prefer the all Red Dot versions better. They are more even sounding, and punchy. The 1731's seem to have a strange mid range push that I don't love and are slow sounding. It is subtle and probably hard to hear in a printed track, but in person I can hear it. It is one of those things I would use an eq to try and fix. Time for me to go rob a Red Dot bank! I need another 6. haha I don't normally use 2:1 ratio but I think I could find a number of uses for it with these comps. I need to keep messing around with them and try some really heavy compression and see how they handle that. So far so good! A side note: They look super cool in the rack! EDIT / ADDITIONAL LISTENING: These comps do like some heavy compression. Once I tried the heavier compression I noticed a few things that some people may like in the tone of the 1731's. The 1731's have a muddy/build up to my ears in the 300hz area that I personally don't love on most sources. However, if you are into modern rock and love "THAT" snare tone then use the 1731's. They will get you there a lot quicker or if you are tracking a higher voiced singer that lacks some bottom end then maybe the 1731's will work nice for ya. After hearing this I tested the 1731's in each position with a RD's in the other 2 positons to see if I could find a sweet spot for the 1731's. In the end I like either all RD's or the 1731 in the just the preamp stage. The later was a nice blend of the 2. Overall, the comps are really nice sounding, flexible and I can't wait to really put them to use. They bumped a few of my other comps down a notch for sure. Damnit...now I want 6 red dots...
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Post by tonycamphd on May 6, 2015 18:12:44 GMT -6
I've been thinking of using some AD4898's with an adapter card to see what those sound like in the FC526 when i'm done building. I know i can switch the AD4898's out with other lme49710 op amps with no stabilization issues. Do you see any issues with that idea here Mr jsteiger ?
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Post by jsteiger on May 6, 2015 18:17:44 GMT -6
I am not really familiar with that amp but if they are compatible with the LME49710 they should work fine.
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Post by mdmitch2 on May 27, 2017 11:17:25 GMT -6
jsteiger --- any news on the FC526? I saw on FB that you've been working on a revision with an input transformer. Can't wait to get a pair!
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Post by jsteiger on May 27, 2017 11:41:03 GMT -6
jsteiger --- any news on the FC526? I saw on FB that you've been working on a revision with an input transformer. Can't wait to get a pair! Everything is here for these. New and tested PCB's, new faceplates etc. We have the first batch of 50 parts kits all sorted and ready to go. The only thing I am lacking is the new pictorial build guide. I plan to get going on that as soon as we delivery the Stapleton pre's.
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Post by mdmitch2 on May 27, 2017 11:58:46 GMT -6
jsteiger --- any news on the FC526? I saw on FB that you've been working on a revision with an input transformer. Can't wait to get a pair! Everything is here for these. New and tested PCB's, new faceplates etc. We have the first batch of 50 parts kits all sorted and ready to go. The only thing I am lacking is the new pictorial build guide. I plan to get going on that as soon as we delivery the Stapleton pre's. I don't need no steeenking build guide..... well, maybe for calibration. Looking forward to hearing these!
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