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Post by b1 on May 18, 2015 12:01:21 GMT -6
In Theory Tbolt might be better but I doubt it would be noticed. That I said I myself just ordered a Tbolt SSD from macsales. oops... beat me to it.
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Post by b1 on May 18, 2015 12:00:37 GMT -6
Thunderbolt SSD has a higher thoroughfare, but according to your workflow, you may never notice it. If you foresee an increased workflow, Thunderbolt/SSD may be the way you want to go, but I can't envision there being a need for it, IF A) you continue to work the same, AND B) you've happily filled up 1 to 3 TB of data via USB 3.
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Post by b1 on May 18, 2015 11:21:35 GMT -6
I've never heard of anyone having trouble with USB 3. No reason to think it would start failing you now.
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Post by b1 on May 16, 2015 19:37:29 GMT -6
Has anyone used these or care to comment on them: Avantone Audio Active MixCubes (Black) - $479.00 / Pair Item ID: MixCubesActB Mini Active Full-range Reference Monitors with 5-1/4" Drivers, Shielded Design, and Built-in Stand Mounts (pr) www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/MixCubesActB
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Post by b1 on May 15, 2015 10:25:41 GMT -6
... Honestly, my new WD black drives are dB's quieter than my old hard drives. I can barely hear their ticks at all. I moved them away from the front of the case, towards the center and now I can't hear them at all. For vibration, try using a heavy mastic compound, or some of that dynamat stuff that car audio folks use to keep vibrations down. It's a heavy, sticky bitumen pad that dampens vibrating panels. Add a few strips to each large metal surface to keep it from vibrating even slightly. If you tap on the case of the computer and hear anywhere that pings, add some dampening until it only thuds. Use rubber standoffs on drives and fans if you can, to keep them from vibrating the chassis. For turbulence, the only solution is to smoothen the air flow somehow. Remove obstructions in front of and behind the fan, and use soft air filters in place of metal ones if you can. I used some aluminum duct tape to form a smooth channel from the outside vent to the fan inlet and it cut down the wooosh noise that was being caused by the air flowing over a sharp piece of metal that was sticking out. Yes, the WD Blacks are more than adequate for mult-tracking/sampling. I have the Blacks in all of my PCs. I don't have any SSDs anywhere. The WD Black Enterprise HHDs with 64 MB cache are great and reliable. One 120mm fan will keep three of those cool to the touch, with no noise. If they stop making those, then I'll look into SSDs.
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Post by b1 on May 15, 2015 9:59:48 GMT -6
I'm In!
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Post by b1 on May 15, 2015 9:24:46 GMT -6
All excellent suggestions above. Easy to plan for these things when building a new PC, but a little more work $ to upgrade a system to lower dB levels. If you have a closet or cabinet nearby, that's a simple way. Just allow for air flow - also watching mic radius/placement. Another equally simple thing, as Tony suggested, would be going with baffle panels and such, as suggested. As for water cooling, that's a more major upgrade (headache) and would need to allow water cooling of the video card's chip (eliminating the whining fan under load). I had this PC built specifically for audio, and it was advertised as "Super Quiet". I've contacted the PC builder to get his recommendations, as its been a really stable system and I don't want to mess it up installing something. It's in a 4U rack mount chassis. I think I'm going to try to go with the fan that the PC maker recommends and put it in an empty multi rack rack case I have and then put cubes of covered fiberglass on the top and sides. The problem is the back though, where the fan is. I wonder if I could put a baffle over the back of the rack case as well when I'm tracking, or if it would be an overheat risk. I guess I could get a temperature gauge to check the temp. It sounds like you are mainly having case fan issues or PSU fan issues since you mentioned noise at the back. I agree with what everyone said about larger fans. If they're turning at lower RPMs, maybe also with the help of a variable or 3-speed fan control you should be able to tame the noise fairly easily. If it's a PSU fan you may need to replace the PSU with a platinum 80 plus series of greater wattage to make sure all of your components properly powered. Possibly the PSU is over-taxed by all of the components. The baffling you mentioned in addition to the fans (including PSU fan) should take care of it. Also I think someone mentioned a vibration pad?, but since yours is rack mounted, you may need to rubberize the mounting points, and the rack at it's base. One of my PCs has an Antec 1200 case with large 120 mm three speed fans at front, back, & top. I have them all turned off except two at the front for the hard drives and one at rear - all set to the slowest speed. My PSU is a 750 watt Corsair 80 plus Bronze series, all of which is silent. That is, you have to put your ear up to them to hear the sound. Overall try to determine if the noise is from the case fan(s) or the PSU. Another option may be to move your more powerful PC to another room and use a more quiet PC to network to it through a CAT 5 or 6 cable. That is along the lines of a "render farm" scenario used for encoding and rendering video for days on end; to complete the tasks.
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Post by b1 on May 14, 2015 20:46:50 GMT -6
All excellent suggestions above. Easy to plan for these things when building a new PC, but a little more work $ to upgrade a system to lower dB levels. If you have a closet or cabinet nearby, that's a simple way. Just allow for air flow - also watching mic radius/placement. Another equally simple thing, as Tony suggested, would be going with baffle panels and such, as suggested. As for water cooling, that's a more major upgrade (headache) and would need to allow water cooling of the video card's chip (eliminating the whining fan under load).
It should be rather simple to make allowances in your setup without increasing cable lengths. Maybe include different or rearrange existing furniture.
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Post by b1 on May 14, 2015 15:45:43 GMT -6
... a worthy cause.
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Post by b1 on May 14, 2015 15:36:24 GMT -6
Whew, I was wondering what to disable. Didn't know which button went with which product.
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Post by b1 on May 14, 2015 15:02:01 GMT -6
Yes sir, it surely does help. Yes, the gain is higher than should be but recording @ -7 dB. This should do the trick! 3 models to cover the bases.
Thanks, Mr. Holmes. Top o' the day to ya sir.
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Post by b1 on May 14, 2015 12:03:40 GMT -6
There are probably workable solutions somewhere in the site, but I was wondering what folks use to tame mic overload on a low SPL mic.
I've got a Shure SM57 type mic that is very usable except for the occasional distortion. It's not clipping per se, it just a sort of distortion during dynamic parts. I've heard of a simple non-powered convertor box which people have made, but I'm uncertain of the installed components... just wondering what others use to deter this overload problem.
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Post by b1 on May 14, 2015 11:52:39 GMT -6
Maybe my browser isn't rendering the RM site correctly, but I couldn't make heads or tails out of some of his pages; "Buy Now" buttons randomly scattered all over the place.
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Post by b1 on May 13, 2015 13:01:26 GMT -6
Yeah, those IRQs & drivers would be a detriment to the whole idea of a Pro quality convertor box. I've got both SPDIF Coax (partly) and Optical, but Optical is the common theme on everything I've got. So the Coax SPDIF in this unit will be 75 ohms and AES3 is 110 ohms, if read the intended specs on your SB correctly. Those links will make a nice addition to this "on-line manual". I've yet to read all of the pages related to this AD/DA box, but it's on my list of things to do.
Full steam ahead on the convertor box (not an interface!)
I musta blanked out for a bit, because I knew good & well to stay away from the OS to make sound decisions based on your uninhibited preferences.
I'm feeling much better now.
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Post by b1 on May 12, 2015 19:10:06 GMT -6
Interesting points. I definitely wouldn't suggest USB over S/Pdif Coax, but just pondering an "add-on" as it were - maybe with another option of light-pipe. I would image he has mulled all of this over, but I agree with you, " 'Fine", that primo AD/DA duty should be the ultimate goal. Just throwing some other "add-on" concepts out there - maybe from a marketing standpoint in this age of project studios. I do want the convertors to not be degraded by any means.
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Post by b1 on May 12, 2015 14:59:09 GMT -6
I found my way back to this thread. I would like to be put on the current batch list for a AD/DA unit, if possible, please. Thanks.
Tim
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Post by b1 on May 12, 2015 11:47:35 GMT -6
Just my 2 cents, and I can totally understand Svart's decision for I/O's, but I would like to see USB and/or Optical S/Pdif somewhere in the pipeline. How do I get on the list for the current stereo version?
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Post by b1 on May 12, 2015 10:59:18 GMT -6
Thanks for the welcome John. That's seems like a nice price-point. I'll check that link.
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Post by b1 on May 12, 2015 9:24:08 GMT -6
Hi everyone, I just found this site & jumped from the 3rd page to the 28th: I'll read more as I have time. Svart, are you going to sell these units, and if so, do you have a ball park figure on price. I need an AD/DA unit.
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