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Post by the other mark williams on Oct 1, 2018 12:03:24 GMT -6
One of the things that strips those hex nuts is that their are 2 different types of threads used in Dsub connectors, The first time I bought some cheap HOSA cables I saw that they included a second set of screws with the different thread in a little bag. I thought, "what's this?" and looked it up. It's the only way I found out about it. Now I always pull the screw out and try it in the nut before seating the connector. It's saved me some grief, for sure. Good call. My various Planet Waves cables/connectors came with those, too. I'll check and see if it helps. I know there's both a Metric and an Imperial size hex screw...
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Post by johneppstein on Oct 1, 2018 12:08:00 GMT -6
I saw nothing in either article to suggest that the D-sub was not developed for computer applications. The term "electrical connector" is nonspecific and vague. The DID have computer gear in the '50s, you know.
It damn sure was never intended to be an audio connector!
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Post by indiehouse on Oct 1, 2018 12:18:45 GMT -6
The most annoying things besides soldering them, is the cheap Chinese pot metal screws stripping out (Redco DB25 connectors), and the hex screw connector unscrewing along with the DB25. ^ This. This is exactly the thing. The screws from the connector get stuck in the hex screws embedded in the piece of gear. Then it strips the inside in the piece of gear and it just keeps spinning. The Redco connectors have been the worst offender of this for me, with Planet Waves connectors being slightly better. But not a whole lot better. As long as the other side of the connector stays securely fastened to the gear, I think it'll be fine. But as soon as THAT screw strips, there won't be anything to hold the connector there. I’m not sure that it strips the inside of the connecting gear. For me anyways, the hex nuts are simply unthreading when I go to remove the DB25. Ive been using a dab of thread lock when I rethread the hex nuts.
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Post by ericn on Oct 1, 2018 12:36:18 GMT -6
^ This. This is exactly the thing. The screws from the connector get stuck in the hex screws embedded in the piece of gear. Then it strips the inside in the piece of gear and it just keeps spinning. The Redco connectors have been the worst offender of this for me, with Planet Waves connectors being slightly better. But not a whole lot better. As long as the other side of the connector stays securely fastened to the gear, I think it'll be fine. But as soon as THAT screw strips, there won't be anything to hold the connector there. I’m not sure that it strips the inside of the connecting gear. For me anyways, the hex nuts are simply unthreading when I go to remove the DB25. Ive been using a dab of thread lock when I rethread the hex nuts. Thread lock and better stand offs can make things a whole lot better, that and the right size open end wrench!
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Post by ericn on Oct 1, 2018 12:37:36 GMT -6
The first time I bought some cheap HOSA cables I saw that they included a second set of screws with the different thread in a little bag. I thought, "what's this?" and looked it up. It's the only way I found out about it. Now I always pull the screw out and try it in the nut before seating the connector. It's saved me some grief, for sure. Good call. My various Planet Waves cables/connectors came with those, too. I'll check and see if it helps. I know there's both a Metric and an Imperial size hex screw... Guess where I first learned of the existence of the 2 different threads🤔
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Post by ericn on Oct 1, 2018 12:38:28 GMT -6
It’s funny when you think that Alesis used ELCO’s and Yamaha and Tascam that gave us standards for Dsub 25’s. The reason for using a crappy computer connector for audio ? They are cheap and dense, that’s it hate, hate hate them, but they do make it easy to organize things, plus there are only 2 pinout standards out there! It's not that surprising that Yamaha and Tascam would use DB25s - yamahqa has always sourced the cheapest parts possible (the "linear faders" in the PM1000 are actually really cheap rotary pots mounted in a jerry rigged radio cord frame) and Tascam hasn't been a whole lot better. Yeah but Alesis made them both look high end.
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Post by johneppstein on Oct 1, 2018 14:41:52 GMT -6
It's not that surprising that Yamaha and Tascam would use DB25s - yamahqa has always sourced the cheapest parts possible (the "linear faders" in the PM1000 are actually really cheap rotary pots mounted in a jerry rigged radio cord frame) and Tascam hasn't been a whole lot better. Yeah but Alesis made them both look high end. Except on the connectors, it would appear.
I rememberr Alesis' first compact mixer that had the resistive tracks for the pots and faders printed onto the circuit board. To be clear, the ONLY circuit board. Talk about "no user serviceable parts". I think it's the only time I've seen that notice, opened the thing up, and said "aaah YUP!"
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Post by ericn on Oct 2, 2018 7:45:37 GMT -6
One thing nobody has mentioned is there are 3 types of Dsub pins: solder, standard crimp and millspec crimp. Solder and standard crimp are the cheapest carp metal out there, honestly I think crimp is a slightly more consistent connection of the 2. I use 2 different crumpers in a 2 stages plus some shrink and find I get a better cable find myself much more sane and save considerably on alcoholic beverages. The last type the milk spec are not cheap, these use a specialized tool that should provide an even pressure in 360’ degrees. The milspec are used in aviation and some esoteric military applications, they stil the same crappy size. I have noticed the millspec seam to be a bit harder to bend but not sure if they are really worth the extra $ and I have yet to find an audio cable manufacturer who uses them. Oh if you go standard Crimp The cheap insert / retraction tools on eBay are absolutely crap I broke 3 in one week!
Yeah I’m a proud audio geek who else would write a page on Dsub pins.
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Post by johneppstein on Oct 2, 2018 11:11:46 GMT -6
Yeah I’m a proud audio geek who else would write a page on Dsub pins.
Computer geek, natch!
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Post by ericn on Oct 2, 2018 11:14:38 GMT -6
Yeah I’m a proud audio geek who else would write a page on Dsub pins.
Computer geek, natch!
That hurts😎
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Post by johneppstein on Oct 2, 2018 13:02:34 GMT -6
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Post by jacobamerritt on Dec 8, 2022 23:23:57 GMT -6
So… I have a couple of the Hosa DB25s… just tried connecting to a 500 rack that’s metric- the stock screws in the DB25 don’t work, but the extra ones that came with the cable do! But how to switch them out?? The connector housing is solid plastic- Update! - I just pulled hard with some pliers and popped em out and put in the new ones… First time ever using DB25, don’t shame me
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Post by ericn on Dec 9, 2022 7:00:47 GMT -6
So… I have a couple of the Hosa DB25s… just tried connecting to a 500 rack that’s metric- the stock screws in the DB25 don’t work, but the extra ones that came with the cable do! But how to switch them out?? The connector housing is solid plastic- Update! - I just pulled hard with some pliers and popped em out and put in the new ones… First time ever using DB25, don’t shame me Jacob, all I can add is it helps to turn the screw counter clockwise as you pull, & some will have little flat shims that are threaded to retain the screw. If your connectors have these unscrew them like a nut first.
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Post by ironinthepath on Dec 9, 2022 10:36:54 GMT -6
The one thing I like about dB25 is when using Lynx Aurora and 500 series lunchbox also having dB25 it’s super easy to connect/disconnect a set of eight.
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Post by EmRR on Dec 9, 2022 11:36:02 GMT -6
Altec 428 and 429 tube amps from the 250A console of the late 50's use db15 connectors, I also have some Grass Valley germanium preamps from 1964 that use them. One amp per connector, carrying audio, power and ground. Both cases, it's connector to connector panel mating, no cables with potential strain relief problems.
No one ever heard of Grass Valley audio gear, just video, and Altec moved to a different connector in the next generation stuff.
I've got a 1950's Cannon catalog, they're in there. Have to check the year, I think it's '52 or '55.
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Post by tonycamphd on Sept 19, 2024 8:08:44 GMT -6
JMO Db25 connectors are great! Pros HiQ metal case/solid pin still cheap(Elco,xlr,1/4”can cost 20x$) SAVE SPACE SAVE $ Set, forget safe as anything(no dance parties behind your gear) Reconfigure is easy Common to pro audio everything unlike adat/elco Can buy quality pre made cables for relatively cheap
Cons Pita to solder Frustrating when u just want a single cable hookup
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Post by ironinthepath on Sept 20, 2024 7:06:45 GMT -6
Without the db25 or similar density connector there’s no way we’d have 32 in / 32 out high end conversion in a single 19 inch rack space (Lynx Aurora (n), etc.). I agree about the annoyance, but this point makes it a reasonable trade off from my perspective.
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Post by svart on Sept 20, 2024 7:20:12 GMT -6
I've been working in studios in one way or another for nearly 25 years now. And today I asked myself this question: Is there any type of audio connector more annoying than the db25 connector? And I answered my question with this: No. No, there is not. That is all. Oh boy.. You haven't tried to build an ELCO with solder pins have you? So much worse. Crimp connection ELCO has to be my second least favorite. DB25 is pretty mild in comparison.
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Post by rpc on Sept 20, 2024 7:24:58 GMT -6
Worse than DB25? At the risk of getting piled on, Tuchel connectors. Not the connector itself, but after 4 decades of working with them on-location, the threads on the shells are one of the banes of my existence. Guaranteed to spall or cross-thread at the worst possible moment...
EDIT: ...and then there's trying to fix one of the inside pins when the connector's in the mike and the leads are too short to pull the connector out...
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Post by svart on Sept 20, 2024 7:31:56 GMT -6
Worse than DB25? At the risk of getting piled on, Tuchel connectors. Not the connector itself, but after 4 decades of working with them on-location, the threads on the shells are one of the banes of my existence. Guaranteed to spall or cross-thread at the worst possible moment... YES! I had a couple of them like that.. Unscrew them nice and easy and then start to tighten them back up and then they gall and get stuck. Uggh.
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Post by jeremygillespie on Sept 20, 2024 10:35:40 GMT -6
Db25 is cool if you plug it in once and leave it on an install. The problems arise when you continuously plug/unplug them.
Best for that situation is the good old Cannon DL. Zero insertion force, just an absolute beast of a connector.
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Post by rowmat on Sept 20, 2024 13:40:22 GMT -6
DB37’s are 48% worse.
I soldered 100’s of them along with DB25’s when I was working on a satellite phone system back in the late 1990’s.
Overall thousands of terminations.
What made it worse was a bunch were filtered DB connectors that had been previously damaged due to overheating the termination while soldering causing the encapsulated filter capacitors to fail and short circuit to the case/ground.
So they had be desoldered and replaced.
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Post by ericn on Sept 20, 2024 14:27:18 GMT -6
The only good things I can say about Dsubs is they are cheap and compact. Do realize cheap pins are cheap for a reason and watch out for “ gold metal plated “ not gold plated but gold metal.
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Post by tonycamphd on Sept 20, 2024 18:26:42 GMT -6
Solid pin is the only way to go, they do make hollow pin for some reason🤷🏻♂️
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Post by drbill on Sept 20, 2024 18:32:46 GMT -6
I've been working in studios in one way or another for nearly 25 years now. And today I asked myself this question: Is there any type of audio connector more annoying than the db25 connector? And I answered my question with this: No. No, there is not. That is all. Oh boy.. You haven't tried to build an ELCO with solder pins have you? DB25's are 1000X's worse in every which way - reliability, connectivity, and ease of build - than Elco's from my perspective. I always crimp the Elco's and give em a touch of solder after the crimp. Piece of cake. I can do those 10X's faster than DB25's - my most hated connecter. I agree 100% with Mark - no, no there is not any connector worse.
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