|
Post by ragan on Jun 22, 2016 2:39:11 GMT -6
Finally got the time to really dive into the Hairball Rev A. Got the main PCB done tonight. I like this! It's pretty zen to just be soldering away with some tunes going late at night. Attachment Deleted
|
|
|
Post by rocinante on Jun 24, 2016 14:06:35 GMT -6
Indubidibly. It's a little known fact that some Godspeed You Black Emperor, a little soldering, a fresh pcb, and few fingers crossed can lead one straight into the dharma. No added meditation needed. Enlightenment here we come! Take that Dogen!
|
|
|
Post by ragan on Jun 26, 2016 16:30:39 GMT -6
Are you guys building your own racks/chassis mostly? I was just reading up on the 51x thing. Is that what most of you guys are using? I'm just planning for the future. If I build several pieces I can sell stuff and come out ahead. I'm relatively certain I'm going to do a second Rev A FET 500. And I'm pretty keen on a pair of Lola pres. Gonna need more 500 space though. Also, is there a good Harrison 32c DIY option? Or something like it? I have the Great River version and I absolutely love it. I either want a second one or to build a pair of something else. unit7 rocinante
|
|
|
Post by unit7 on Jun 27, 2016 1:08:07 GMT -6
Are you guys building your own racks/chassis mostly? I was just reading up on the 51x thing. Is that what most of you guys are using? I'm just planning for the future. If I build several pieces I can sell stuff and come out ahead. I'm relatively certain I'm going to do a second Rev A FET 500. And I'm pretty keen on a pair of Lola pres. Gonna need more 500 space though. Also, is there a good Harrison 32c DIY option? Or something like it? I have the Great River version and I absolutely love it. I either want a second one or to build a pair of something else. unit7 rocinante Yes I'm using the CAPI (Silent Arts in the EU) racks/Floor box PSUs. Worth to note is that the real savings per slot kicks in when you go for two 11 slot racks powered by one PSU. Though not dead the 51X standard doesn't seem to fly like many hoped. I only got it for my NV73s. Note that Jeff has a dual VPR PSU: capi-gear.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=176_178&products_id=358I don't know about DIY 32c eq. Only seen the non 500 format 32c thread at GDIY
|
|
|
Post by rocinante on Jun 27, 2016 9:07:04 GMT -6
Everything unit7 said. The 51x was for things that operated in 24v as opposed to the typical 15-18v. And just like unit 7 said the racks are an amazing investment if you plan on having a bunch of 500 series gear. For a single rack of 8-11 not so much.
|
|
|
Post by rocinante on Jun 27, 2016 9:11:48 GMT -6
Dan derlou at collective cases sells the harrison hp and lp filters which are cool. Forth monkey has a harrison eq project as well. Imo Bluzzi's, Jeff's, The Don Classics, and Ruff Record's eq's knock it out of the ballpark and you can not go wrong. All of the aforementioned come in a variety of formats and stages. From full blown kits to a pcb and a thread supporting it.
|
|
|
Post by ragan on Jun 27, 2016 9:39:56 GMT -6
Great info unit7 and rocinante. Thank you. So if I just want like, a 19" wide 500 rack of 10 (or whatever fits in those) modules, what's my best bet? I go up to my cabin a record a lot and I'd love to be able to put an array of 500 series stuff in one of my road cases, also I have 19" space in my rack at home. Are there kits to build one or is it not worth it, just buy a pre-made variety? I'm just pretty green when it comes to 500 series, but it seems it's kinda the way to go if I want to build more DIY stuff.
|
|
|
Post by rocinante on Jun 27, 2016 11:24:22 GMT -6
And indeed it is. Yes you can get Jeff's rack plus power supply and build an 11 space rack. If you think your gonna fill it with Neve 24v projects get the 51x version otherwise just get the standard 500 vpr compliant (which is what i would do if i were you). As an example of what can be implemented in 500; these are the Harrison filters i am protyping for 500 series that i was talking about. I got the filter pcbs from Dan and the 500 series connector at CAPI. You can also get a dingo kit at JLM Audio which is a 500 series in out module balancer with accommodations for transformers and DOA's.
|
|
ericn
Temp
Balance Engineer
Posts: 16,107
Member is Online
|
Post by ericn on Jun 29, 2016 17:42:13 GMT -6
Some nut case built a rack from Jeff and powers it with a Console PSU trimmed down to 16.5 volts ! Wait I'm that nut case!
|
|
|
Post by ragan on Jul 4, 2016 22:13:26 GMT -6
Hey dudes, rocinante unit7 ericnI finished the Hairball FET500 Rev A and have run into a couple anomalies calibrating it. I'm wondering about my DMM. It's a Fluke 12B. I looked up the specs and couldn't find anything about accuracy with 1k (MIke from Hairball talks about needing to make sure your DMM has a certain amount of accuracy at 1k). Here's the specs I could find. Do you guys see anything about 1k accuracy or anything? assets.fluke.com/manuals/12b187xxsmeng0000.pdfAlso, feel free to disregard as it's not any of your responsibility to sort out my metering. Thanks for all the help and insight you've already given.
|
|
ericn
Temp
Balance Engineer
Posts: 16,107
Member is Online
|
Post by ericn on Jul 5, 2016 6:13:31 GMT -6
Hey dudes, rocinante unit7 ericnI finished the Hairball FET500 Rev A and have run into a couple anomalies calibrating it. I'm wondering about my DMM. It's a Fluke 12B. I looked up the specs and couldn't find anything about accuracy with 1k (MIke from Hairball talks about needing to make sure your DMM has a certain amount of accuracy at 1k). Here's the specs I could find. Do you guys see anything about 1k accuracy or anything? assets.fluke.com/manuals/12b187xxsmeng0000.pdfAlso, feel free to disregard as it's not any of your responsibility to sort out my metering. Thanks for all the help and insight you've already given. Awe man! Not sure but Fluke is pretty much the standard for modern VOMs.
|
|
|
Post by rocinante on Jul 5, 2016 19:51:19 GMT -6
Calibration is a bitch on the 1176 but necessary. More importantly the order of which you do things comes into play. First is the q-bias which needs to be in the ballpark for the meters to work which makes the q bias work. Take your time. Watch the youtube videos on it and imitate him. There's a couple of calibration videos pick one and just do it slowly, hitting pause and scroll backwards. Repeat. The first time took me on and off a few days. I wish someone had grabbed me and told me too relax. Its probably not your meter but if you feel its possible buy an $8 dmm off ebay.
|
|
|
Post by ragan on Jul 5, 2016 20:14:34 GMT -6
Calibration is a bitch on the 1176 but necessary. More importantly the order of which you do things comes into play. First is the q-bias which needs to be in the ballpark for the meters to work which makes the q bias work. Take your time. Watch the youtube videos on it and imitate him. There's a couple of calibration videos pick one and just do it slowly, hitting pause and scroll backwards. Repeat. The first time took me on and off a few days. I wish someone had grabbed me and told me too relax. Its probably not your meter but if you feel its possible buy an $8 dmm off ebay. Good advice. I can do every step he does with total precision, getting the exact same readings, EXCEPT the gain trim. My input has to be down to get the gain trim to have an effect. Making me think my 0db sine is not really 0db or something? I don't know. It's a Fluke meter, should be decent. I already reflowed every joint on the meter board and rechecked the values on the peak LED circuit.
|
|
|
Post by unit7 on Jul 6, 2016 4:32:33 GMT -6
On holiday, so can't help much. But you contacted Mike, right? Does the calibr guide say anything about the need of a meter w 'true RMS'? Does your Fluke have that?
|
|
|
Post by ragan on Jul 6, 2016 9:14:36 GMT -6
On holiday, so can't help much. But you contacted Mike, right? Does the calibr guide say anything about the need of a meter w 'true RMS'? Does your Fluke have that? Mike has been really helpful but has said I need to bring it in (with a charge) to go any further. He didn't mention anything about "true" RMS and I don't know if the Fluke 12b has that. Would it list it in the specs? Also, do you know how I can find out how accurate the Fluke is at 1k? I can't see anything about it in the specs (link above).
|
|
|
Post by ragan on Jul 6, 2016 9:15:11 GMT -6
I should say though, it sure sounds creamy and great on vox. Excited about that.
|
|
|
Post by rocinante on Jul 6, 2016 12:23:25 GMT -6
Where are you getting your sine wave from? Your daw? PT? Your converters will spit out 0db. Theres a ton of software oscilloscopes online. They all come with function generators I.e. 1k sine wave makers. Then you know that its on if its coming directly from your converter. You don't need Mike, your done. Soundcard oscilloscope by christian zeitnist is one i use. We will take it from there
|
|
|
Post by ragan on Jul 6, 2016 14:21:09 GMT -6
Where are you getting your sine wave from? Your daw? PT? Your converters will spit out 0db. Theres a ton of software oscilloscopes online. They all come with function generators I.e. 1k sine wave makers. Then you know that its on if its coming directly from your converter. You don't need Mike, your done. Soundcard oscilloscope by christian zeitnist is one i use. We will take it from there So I did it just like Mike from his calibration video. I'm using the signal generator in PT with the FET 500 as a hardware insert. I put the meter on pins 2 and 3 of the input and adjust PT's 1k sine wave until I've got .775vac at the FET 500 input. Then I put the meter on the output and do the calibration steps from there, just like the video. Shouldn't that work? I do the Q bias adjustment first, then move to the gain trim. But I can't get the peak light to go off even if I turn the gain trim all the way clockwise. BUT if I lower the input nob (it's supposed to be at noon, as per the video) a ways, I can then control the peak LED with the gain trim. It sounds great, it just hurts my brain that it won't calibrate like it should!
|
|
|
Post by rocinante on Jul 6, 2016 23:37:25 GMT -6
Okay good signs. Sorry for the late response i am just slammed with work. Okay so if its compressing then you are 90% there. Have you raised the output 3/4? I remember screwing with the output potentiometer a lot when i did mine. All 3 of them as a matter of fact. Tweak the output till you get some indication. What are your attack and release settings?
im gonna pick up a blue face someday soon. In rack format. Another rev d but in 500 format couldn't hurt either. At any rate Try it with the output raised and double check the attack and release. Also is the led observing correct polarity?. Unfortunately the bias is the only calibration you actually need for the 1176 to work correctly.
|
|
|
Post by ragan on Jul 7, 2016 12:51:01 GMT -6
Okay good signs. Sorry for the late response i am just slammed with work. Okay so if its compressing then you are 90% there. Have you raised the output 3/4? I remember screwing with the output potentiometer a lot when i did mine. All 3 of them as a matter of fact. Tweak the output till you get some indication. What are your attack and release settings? im gonna pick up a blue face someday soon. In rack format. Another rev d but in 500 format couldn't hurt either. At any rate Try it with the output raised and double check the attack and release. Also is the led observing correct polarity?. Unfortunately the bias is the only calibration you actually need for the 1176 to work correctly. I have the input and output nobs at noon, like Mike says in the video. Attack and release fastest, 20:1 ratio. I know if I mess with the input nob (lowering it) I can get the gain trim to effect the peak LED, but doesn't that mean somethings weird? If I set input/output like the video, that's when gain trim doesn't effect the peak LED. I haven't tried messing with the output nob, but if there's no issue, shouldn't I be able to replicate what the video shows re: the gain trim and the LEDs?
|
|
|
Post by rocinante on Jul 7, 2016 23:45:36 GMT -6
I'm gonna have to watch Mike's video as ive only built rack 1176s but an 1176 is an 1176... It seems like the problem has gotta be somewhere in your peak detection circuit/led metering... Does it use a set of lm3915 for the metering? Does the metering work for other tasks? Look for someone else who has succesfully completed an 1176 with pics and compare yours and theirs. )
|
|
|
Post by rocinante on Jul 10, 2016 9:16:19 GMT -6
Ragan buddy what's the news? Any progress?
|
|
|
Post by ragan on Jul 10, 2016 20:53:12 GMT -6
Ragan buddy what's the news? Any progress? Heh. Sorry. Got slammed with some work and family in town and haven't looked at it. I certainly will though. Thanks for checking in/giving advice.
|
|
|
Post by ragan on Jul 18, 2016 21:11:11 GMT -6
I'm gonna have to watch Mike's video as ive only built rack 1176s but an 1176 is an 1176... It seems like the problem has gotta be somewhere in your peak detection circuit/led metering... Does it use a set of lm3915 for the metering? Does the metering work for other tasks? Look for someone else who has succesfully completed an 1176 with pics and compare yours and theirs. ) There are a pair of LM3916 on the meter board so I'm assuming that's what you're talking about? I emailed Mike from Hairball today and told him I'd like them to take a look at it, even for a charge. I just need the peace of mind. This was my first build and I've checked and rechecked and checked again all the components. I reflowed the whole meter board. It works like it's supposed to in the calibration video, just not at the input level it's supposed to work at. I still wonder if my meter isn't accurate at 1k or something? I couldn't find the spec on that that he mentions being important. They're behind right now and taking some vacation time too so he told me to contact him on the 1st. They're in my neighborhood so it'll be easy to swing it by. He said if there's not an actual issue with it, they won't charge me. I just have to know what's up, for my brain.
|
|
|
Post by rocinante on Jul 19, 2016 9:59:05 GMT -6
O get that buddy. Hell i have the d-aoc im just getting back to after a year. Sometimes it takes some fresh or experienced eyes.
|
|