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Post by guitfiddler on Apr 24, 2015 19:46:33 GMT -6
I think I need one of these just for my iTunes player...Those MP3's just don't sound good enough...lol. I can't wait to hear more. Thanks for your effort Svart.
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Post by svart on May 4, 2015 7:31:13 GMT -6
So a few updates..
I'm pretty happy with the audio from the converters, so I'm not working on the audio portion any more. I did find that the PCM1794 devices heat up pretty rapidly if they are not actively converting something. It's strange, even in the muted state they heat up hotter than when working. I'm going to see about putting them in MUTE and then placing them in RESET via software and seeing if they stay cool, although I'm not sure what state the outputs will be in. If it's noisy or unpredictable, I'll just have to keep it as-is.
ALSO, I've been getting a LOT of private messages about AD/DA questions that are ALL answered in this thread and in the other threads. I understand that the information has been somewhat spread out too much, but I'm not going to be able to keep track of who asks what over PM, so PLEASE ask your questions here if you need to ask a question.
The bezels still show an end-of-may delivery, although I haven't received any progress information on them, so I don't expect any delays right now. No news is good news, right?
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Post by svart on May 6, 2015 15:33:05 GMT -6
So investigating the DAC heat, it's because the SPDIF receiver boots up in 192K mode first, which then sets the PCM1794 chips into their highest current consumption setup, which is almost 150mW more power dissipation than the base consumption. Since I primarily use the converters at 44.1K(for mixdown without dither), they subsequently drop to their lowest current consumption and only about 250mW of power dissipation.
So nothing inherently wrong here, just overlooked when reading the receiver's datasheet.
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Post by NoFilterChuck on May 6, 2015 16:23:56 GMT -6
Tangent: I was talking with an engineer about why the converters are always so freakin' hot to the touch. He commented that a long time ago they figured out that the clocks run best when they're above a certain temperature. that's why they let 'em cook in all the high-end converters these days and the units are so hot to the touch. Any comments on that?
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Post by svart on May 6, 2015 19:05:47 GMT -6
Tangent: I was talking with an engineer about why the converters are always so freakin' hot to the touch. He commented that a long time ago they figured out that the clocks run best when they're above a certain temperature. that's why they let 'em cook in all the high-end converters these days and the units are so hot to the touch. Any comments on that? It's partly true. The heat isn't what makes an oscillator work better, but heating it makes it harder for changes in ambient temperature to affect it. Changes in temp, even very small ones, can cause an effect called "wandering" where the oscillator will change frequency. Sometimes it's fast, sometimes it's slow, sometimes it's a lot, sometimes just a little. There is a specific part called a OCXO, short for "Oven Controlled Crystal Oscillator" (or sometimes Oven Compensated Oscillator), which literally has a heating element inside of a small metal box with the oscillator. These heat up and stay at that temp for crystal stability. They also cost lots of money. Without the heating feedback control, you'll still get variations in ambient temperature, so the theory is a good guess, but probably shows little benefit in implementation. There are also TCXO, Temperature Compensated Crystal Oscillator, which has internal circuitry that is used to bias the crystal element differently over the temperature range so that the output signal is relatively stable. I use a TCXO but it's a hybrid DPLL which not only uses an internal TCXO but has signal feedback like a standard PLL which keeps it very stable. 5ppM stable.. Almost as good as a OCXO.
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Post by b1 on May 12, 2015 9:24:08 GMT -6
Hi everyone, I just found this site & jumped from the 3rd page to the 28th: I'll read more as I have time. Svart, are you going to sell these units, and if so, do you have a ball park figure on price. I need an AD/DA unit.
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Post by Johnkenn on May 12, 2015 10:55:49 GMT -6
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Post by b1 on May 12, 2015 10:59:18 GMT -6
Thanks for the welcome John. That's seems like a nice price-point. I'll check that link.
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Post by svart on May 12, 2015 14:46:59 GMT -6
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Post by b1 on May 12, 2015 14:59:09 GMT -6
I found my way back to this thread. I would like to be put on the current batch list for a AD/DA unit, if possible, please. Thanks.
Tim
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Post by Johnkenn on May 12, 2015 16:10:39 GMT -6
svart do you want me to open the buyers list thread again?
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Post by svart on May 12, 2015 16:28:43 GMT -6
svart do you want me to open the buyers list thread again? Nah, not until the first batch has shipped.
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Post by drew571 on May 14, 2015 10:37:26 GMT -6
i know it's probably somewhere in this 29 page thread, but does this unit have optical spdif output or just coax?
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Deleted
Deleted Member
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Post by Deleted on May 14, 2015 10:50:09 GMT -6
Just coax.
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Post by drew571 on May 14, 2015 11:50:17 GMT -6
i know there are coax to optical converters out there, are these any good or do they do weird stuff to the signal? going to be getting a motu 16a and don't have the spdif coax option on it.
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Post by svart on May 15, 2015 7:18:56 GMT -6
i know there are coax to optical converters out there, are these any good or do they do weird stuff to the signal? going to be getting a motu 16a and don't have the spdif coax option on it. Most of them are just logic buffer chips that accept the input signal (optical or coax) and then just drive an output (coax or optical), essentially just a straight conversion. I would think that the easiest place to mess one of those up would be not having a good enough power supply in the converter box and allowing noise or power line sag to affect the signal. I would personally get a couple of those converters, pop the tops off, add more decoupling to the board and then use it. I found this on the web which seems to be fairly representative of how they work:
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Post by kcatthedog on May 15, 2015 8:27:58 GMT -6
Svart,
is it still possible, to get your unit with one or the other converters and to add ( either you or diy) the other later ?
Thx !
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Post by svart on May 15, 2015 8:53:51 GMT -6
Svart, is it still possible, to get your unit with one or the other converters and to add ( either you or diy) the other later ? Thx ! You mean get the ADC and add the DAC later, or vice versa? Yes, that is the plan. If you get a DAC and chassis, the unit will ship with a blank front bezel since the DAC is fully automatic. If you add an ADC, the ADC board will come with a new front bezel and the LCD board, which should be pretty easy to install. If you get the ADC and chassis, it'll come with the LCD and LCD bezel already, so when you get the DAC board all you do is screw it in and plug in a small cable and that's it. However, I'm still not shipping either one. I'm still waiting for the bezels and some other things.
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Post by kcatthedog on May 15, 2015 10:13:56 GMT -6
thanks all understood !
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Post by Johnkenn on May 22, 2015 16:55:40 GMT -6
Weekly update?
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Post by NoFilterChuck on May 22, 2015 17:14:36 GMT -6
it's on it's way from Minnesota to my apt in BK :-) Should've arrived today, but USPS is dumb and didn't put it in a truck until this morning even tho Dan dropped it off with them monday.
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Post by Johnkenn on May 22, 2015 17:45:48 GMT -6
Interested to hear your opinions!
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Post by b1 on May 22, 2015 18:58:11 GMT -6
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Post by tonycamphd on May 22, 2015 19:14:57 GMT -6
I wonder how Dan's comparison to his Superbeast went?
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Post by Johnkenn on May 22, 2015 19:42:19 GMT -6
He said it sounded very similar to his superbeast before he made some mods to it. He felt like his modded superbeast had a punchier bottom and smoother top. He sent files, I didn't really hear much difference in the top end and the difference in the bottom was very slight to my ears with the superbeast being bigger on bottom. My question is this - which is more true? I have no idea.
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