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Post by Johnkenn on May 29, 2019 9:41:03 GMT -6
I was thinking about making some 6” thick bass traps. I’ve used a light 2x4 plywood backing and then tacked felt around it. Am I screwing it up with the plywood?
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Post by woofhead on May 29, 2019 10:24:47 GMT -6
I use garden weed fabric on the backs of mine and leave a space between the back of the traps and the wall.I believe you would get more low mid absorption that way, and placing them 45 degrees to wall and ceiling intersections would be great
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Post by kcatthedog on May 29, 2019 11:02:38 GMT -6
They can be deeper for bass and open is better and off the wall 1-2 inches let’s them absorb even more.
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Post by Johnkenn on May 29, 2019 11:04:46 GMT -6
How do you get the felt/cloth to stick to the garden weed fabric?
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Post by Quint on May 29, 2019 11:12:14 GMT -6
I've used bird netting to hold the insulation in on the back and fabric on the front. I used staples to attach everything.
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Post by Tbone81 on May 29, 2019 11:14:55 GMT -6
I used muslin stapled to the back of the frame for my diy traps.
Btw: gik sells diy frames you might want to check out.
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Post by Guitar on May 29, 2019 11:19:03 GMT -6
my panels have the Kraft backing which is a foil. You can order the 703 this way.
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Post by svart on May 29, 2019 11:24:44 GMT -6
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Post by indiehouse on May 29, 2019 13:43:52 GMT -6
I was thinking about making some 6” thick bass traps. I’ve used a light 2x4 plywood backing and then tacked felt around it. Am I screwing it up with the plywood? You don't want a solid plywood back. You want it open. It will be more effective with an air gap between it and the wall. I built mine with 1x2's, reinforcing the corners, same dimensions as the 703 panel (that way you get more surface area for absorption on the sides). Then I stapled a piece of the fabric you find on the underside of couches. You can get the fabric stuff at any fabric store. Then I layed out my bass trap fabric on the floor (basically any fabric that you can blow air through). Then, place the 703 panel. Then, place the frame right on top of the 703 panel, with the black couch fabric facing the 703 panel. Pull the panel fabric and staple to the inside of the back of the frame. Now you have a built in air gap. Hook and wire and you are done.
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Post by mcirish on May 29, 2019 15:22:23 GMT -6
I made mine roughly based on the GIK design. Simple wood frame with corner blocks to keep it rigid. I think it was just 1x1 or 2x1 lumber. Staple muslin to the frames. Set the 703 on top of the 2'x4' frame. You can use corner bead to give a cleaner line on the top of the 703. Wrap your outer material around the 703 and frame and then staple it on the back of the frame. Very easy. Looks great and works great. I did buy about 100 from GIK for a larger project, but for my studio, I needed to do DIY. I already had the 703 wrapped in burlap. ugly.... This worked much better and is pleasing to look at.
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Post by Johnkenn on May 29, 2019 15:30:58 GMT -6
Added 4 new 6 inch mineral wool bass traps...already had 4...Redid the Sonarworks profile...but I only have the Behringer mic (I ordered a SW one). The new profile still shows I have a humongous -12db dip at 80Hz, but it looks like the 30-50Hz bump has gone down a bit. But - the stereo field feels completely different. I swear I don't think it's confirmation bias...It feels engulfing. That's huge. It's exciting. Just feels like there's way more depth. Funny - was listening to a Charlie Puth track (We Don't Talk Anymore) and some harmonies came in from the side and scared the shit out of me.
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Post by Johnkenn on May 29, 2019 15:32:31 GMT -6
BTW - I used 6" or mineral wool boards and just hot glued the fabric. Worked great. I put two of the traps right to the right of my listening position too. Think that made a difference too.
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Post by mcirish on May 29, 2019 15:36:59 GMT -6
Added 4 new 6 inch mineral wool bass traps...already had 4...Redid the Sonarworks profile...but I only have the Behringer mic (I ordered a SW one). The new profile still shows I have a humongous -12db dip at 80Hz, but it looks like the 30-50Hz bump has gone down a bit. But - the stereo field feels completely different. I swear I don't think it's confirmation bias...It feels engulfing. That's huge. It's exciting. Just feels like there's way more depth. Funny - was listening to a Charlie Puth track (We Don't Talk Anymore) and some harmonies came in from the side and scared the shit out of me. John, I cut my 12dB dip at 80hz down to 6.5dB by simply moving the monitors closer to the front wall. I got mine as close as I could without touching the bass traps. It was a world of diference and also gave me nearly 6dB of extra headroom. I believe the reason this works is that the traps can only go so low. Mine are 9" thick but still have very little effect on 80hz. getting them closer to the wall changes the 1/4 wave frequency to a higher pitch that the traps can handle. Hope that makes sense.
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Post by Johnkenn on May 29, 2019 15:47:38 GMT -6
I have a sub too...love to be able to move that farther back, but my desk has a a partition on the back...bad to put it behind that?
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Post by Tbone81 on May 29, 2019 15:49:42 GMT -6
Added 4 new 6 inch mineral wool bass traps...already had 4...Redid the Sonarworks profile...but I only have the Behringer mic (I ordered a SW one). The new profile still shows I have a humongous -12db dip at 80Hz, but it looks like the 30-50Hz bump has gone down a bit. But - the stereo field feels completely different. I swear I don't think it's confirmation bias...It feels engulfing. That's huge. It's exciting. Just feels like there's way more depth. Funny - was listening to a Charlie Puth track (We Don't Talk Anymore) and some harmonies came in from the side and scared the shit out of me. Thats awesome, great improvement! BTW, Sonarworks may still show a 80hz null, but without a waterfall plot you have no way of know if the ringing time of that null has been reduced. For all you know that 80hz null has greatly diminished (even if its still -12db).
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Post by Johnkenn on May 29, 2019 19:14:59 GMT -6
Added 4 new 6 inch mineral wool bass traps...already had 4...Redid the Sonarworks profile...but I only have the Behringer mic (I ordered a SW one). The new profile still shows I have a humongous -12db dip at 80Hz, but it looks like the 30-50Hz bump has gone down a bit. But - the stereo field feels completely different. I swear I don't think it's confirmation bias...It feels engulfing. That's huge. It's exciting. Just feels like there's way more depth. Funny - was listening to a Charlie Puth track (We Don't Talk Anymore) and some harmonies came in from the side and scared the shit out of me. Thats awesome, great improvement! BTW, Sonarworks may still show a 80hz null, but without a waterfall plot you have no way of know if the ringing time of that null has been reduced. For all you know that 80hz null has greatly diminished (even if its still -12db). I have no idea what any of that means, but I like it.
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Post by Johnkenn on May 29, 2019 19:17:39 GMT -6
I had been really jonesing for some new monitors because I thought these ATC’s (the cheap ones) lacked the stereo field of the Amphions I had...this kindve changed everything! I would love to hear the Amphions again - even the 15’s - with Sonarworks.
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Post by Quint on May 29, 2019 21:52:51 GMT -6
There is a point where talking about new monitors OR talking about acoustic treatment ultimately diminishes the usefulness of talking about either unless you are willing to talk about both, in tandem.
Not sure where the price point is that makes it necessary to consider both factors as co-equal....
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Post by swurveman on May 30, 2019 10:03:53 GMT -6
They can be deeper for bass and open is better and off the wall 1-2 inches let’s them absorb even more. I've always wondered about this. So, I hope you don't mind me asking: I built my bass traps from the DIY Joel Dubay PDF. The OC703 sits on top of a 2" frame with ticking fabric across the frame. So, it is built 2" away from the wall. Should the panel be hung an additional 2" from the wall with spacers screwed into the frame , or is the original 2" enough?
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Post by jsteiger on May 30, 2019 10:24:28 GMT -6
Johnkenn, you should give Jeff Hedback a call. He does phone/remote consultation. He could for sure help you flatten out the bottom end. Jeff is an awesome guy. He designed my room and has done stuff for dandeurloo, drbill, BradM and many more. He's the acoustician for the blue collar man.
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Post by indiehouse on May 30, 2019 10:45:02 GMT -6
They can be deeper for bass and open is better and off the wall 1-2 inches let’s them absorb even more. I've always wondered about this. So, I hope you don't mind me asking: I built my bass traps from the DIY Joel Dubay PDF. The OC703 sits on top of a 2" frame with ticking fabric across the frame. So, it is built 2" away from the wall. Should the panel be hung an additional 2" from the wall with spacers screwed into the frame , or is the original 2" enough? That's how I built mine. The spacing is built in by doing it that way. The spacing is measured from the 703 to the wall.
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Post by Tbone81 on May 30, 2019 11:17:55 GMT -6
They can be deeper for bass and open is better and off the wall 1-2 inches let’s them absorb even more. I've always wondered about this. So, I hope you don't mind me asking: I built my bass traps from the DIY Joel Dubay PDF. The OC703 sits on top of a 2" frame with ticking fabric across the frame. So, it is built 2" away from the wall. Should the panel be hung an additional 2" from the wall with spacers screwed into the frame , or is the original 2" enough? Yes an airgap increases the effectiveness of the trap. However, filling in that gap with more insulation is better still. So 2” trap with a 2” gap isn’t quite as good as a 4” trap flat against the wall, make sense? Also, a 2” trap isn’t really a “bass” trap. It’s not thick enough to do much meaningful absorption at lower hz. 4-6” (preferably with an air gap”) would make better bass traps.
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Post by kcatthedog on May 30, 2019 11:59:47 GMT -6
^^This^^, for real bass trapping you need depth, 4 inches is really still mid band.
I read about getting them off the wall in an SoS article, I guess it saves money but building deeper/thicker is better.
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Post by jeromemason on May 30, 2019 12:01:43 GMT -6
I built my last ones with a piece of mass loaded vinyl in the middle, 1/8" ply on the front. One thing I did do was made it so there are 6 screws I can use to put more/less tension on the vinyl. You can use that to tune them, it works, I built 4 of them and tuned them like a drumhead and it knocked a chunk out of the standing wave I was having issues with. Plus, if you move rooms or add/remove something you can again put more/less tension on that piece of mass vinyl. It's like this, 1/8">4"Rouxl>Vinyl>4"Roxul>3/4" particle board. Side,top and bottoms are made of 1x8 pine.
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Post by swafford on May 30, 2019 12:48:23 GMT -6
I was thinking about making some 6” thick bass traps. I’ve used a light 2x4 plywood backing and then tacked felt around it. Am I screwing it up with the plywood? You don't want a solid plywood back. You want it open. It will be more effective with an air gap between it and the wall. I built mine with 1x2's, reinforcing the corners, same dimensions as the 703 panel (that way you get more surface area for absorption on the sides). Then I stapled a piece of the fabric you find on the underside of couches. You can get the fabric stuff at any fabric store. Then I layed out my bass trap fabric on the floor (basically any fabric that you can blow air through). Then, place the 703 panel. Then, place the frame right on top of the 703 panel, with the black couch fabric facing the 703 panel. Pull the panel fabric and staple to the inside of the back of the frame. Now you have a built in air gap. Hook and wire and you are done. Exactly what I do, except I bought many yards of burlap (the non-shedding kind) of Ebay a million years ago and used that. Works in a barn. Here's a shot of free standing 4x8 panels I also made one with the back shown. These are 4" thick. Instead of hook and wire, I screwed short pieces of 1x2 in the wall and hung the smaller ones on that.
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