Post by kilroyrock on Nov 6, 2017 8:15:20 GMT -6
So I find this topic isn't that discussed, but have a few outdated threads across DIY forums. Most are outdated to what's available in the home improvement stores.
So this is what I did. I have been slowly converting a 2 car detached garage from the build of my 1920's Sears catalog house. It's built of old cinder blocks, has no moisture barrier beneath the slab, and a pyramid style roof that loves to build up humidity right at the hairline.
I've been putting together a job with 3.5" roxul on the walls, floating studs (attached by concrete screws and L brackets used for decks) 2" above the floor due to floor moisture, and then pouring moisture stop into the concrete floor so as to turn it into a plastic moisture barrier in and of itself.
The real quandary has been what the heck to do with these cheap ass metal hollow garage doors, installed by the house flipper without a flippant care for who had to ever use anything in the house he attempted to ruin. After looking at the panels offered at home depot, 90 bucks for some pink insulation that's R6, or some thin crumbly styrofoam that's R8, I decided to try to fit 2" closed cell RMax into the 1.7" garage door sections.
It's interesting because it works.
RMax - 2" is R12. Metal faced on both sides, so it traps heat as well as offering sound absorption and deflection.
I cut 19.75" x 44.25" panels out of the $30 per 4x8 sheets. Your doors may vary, but these are the standard cheap-o doors people put on their garages from what I have seen. It takes 2 sheets to do one door. Buy a roll of the 2" AC metal tape, and a roll or two of the 4" AC metal tape. Once cut, you can jam the top side into the crevise at an angle, creating a pinch, then you slowly push the bottom edge down, so that it's jammed flat into the space. Then tape down as you see fit around the edges. Use the 4" to cover the door completely, because the Rmax metal foil is thin and can be damaged. That metal tape is thick and no joke to the common abrasion. That's the step i'm at, it's the easy step.
It takes about an hour to cut the panels. Use a drywall T square, and cut like you would drywall with a boxcutter, then popping the seam. You can smooth an edge by using your concrete floor like a big sheet of sandpaper, especially if you have old concrete floors like me.
some people do spray foam between the panel and the door. I left the space open, so that it could trap the heat/cold. I'll see how this turns out over the next year. If I need to, I'll pull up some tape, put in the spray foam and re-seat the panel. Once it fits, it ships.
I've got more pictures, but this is the picture of one of the doors done. I'll add it as a second post from my phone, I didn't want to type this from there. Any suggestions from here on out, I'm definitely willing to listen, but it's a huge improvement so far. I still have my closed cell foam 3" foor the pyramid roof, for a 22x22 garage, will be about 1500. that'll complete the insulation job of pain and prowess. P.s. don't do that yourself. Pay a guy with a foam gun and a suit. Your hair will thank you.
Total cost, $80 with tape per door, vs $110 per door (with tape) for the crap pink garage insulation.
So this is what I did. I have been slowly converting a 2 car detached garage from the build of my 1920's Sears catalog house. It's built of old cinder blocks, has no moisture barrier beneath the slab, and a pyramid style roof that loves to build up humidity right at the hairline.
I've been putting together a job with 3.5" roxul on the walls, floating studs (attached by concrete screws and L brackets used for decks) 2" above the floor due to floor moisture, and then pouring moisture stop into the concrete floor so as to turn it into a plastic moisture barrier in and of itself.
The real quandary has been what the heck to do with these cheap ass metal hollow garage doors, installed by the house flipper without a flippant care for who had to ever use anything in the house he attempted to ruin. After looking at the panels offered at home depot, 90 bucks for some pink insulation that's R6, or some thin crumbly styrofoam that's R8, I decided to try to fit 2" closed cell RMax into the 1.7" garage door sections.
It's interesting because it works.
RMax - 2" is R12. Metal faced on both sides, so it traps heat as well as offering sound absorption and deflection.
I cut 19.75" x 44.25" panels out of the $30 per 4x8 sheets. Your doors may vary, but these are the standard cheap-o doors people put on their garages from what I have seen. It takes 2 sheets to do one door. Buy a roll of the 2" AC metal tape, and a roll or two of the 4" AC metal tape. Once cut, you can jam the top side into the crevise at an angle, creating a pinch, then you slowly push the bottom edge down, so that it's jammed flat into the space. Then tape down as you see fit around the edges. Use the 4" to cover the door completely, because the Rmax metal foil is thin and can be damaged. That metal tape is thick and no joke to the common abrasion. That's the step i'm at, it's the easy step.
It takes about an hour to cut the panels. Use a drywall T square, and cut like you would drywall with a boxcutter, then popping the seam. You can smooth an edge by using your concrete floor like a big sheet of sandpaper, especially if you have old concrete floors like me.
some people do spray foam between the panel and the door. I left the space open, so that it could trap the heat/cold. I'll see how this turns out over the next year. If I need to, I'll pull up some tape, put in the spray foam and re-seat the panel. Once it fits, it ships.
I've got more pictures, but this is the picture of one of the doors done. I'll add it as a second post from my phone, I didn't want to type this from there. Any suggestions from here on out, I'm definitely willing to listen, but it's a huge improvement so far. I still have my closed cell foam 3" foor the pyramid roof, for a 22x22 garage, will be about 1500. that'll complete the insulation job of pain and prowess. P.s. don't do that yourself. Pay a guy with a foam gun and a suit. Your hair will thank you.
Total cost, $80 with tape per door, vs $110 per door (with tape) for the crap pink garage insulation.
