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Post by jcoutu1 on Nov 2, 2017 18:17:45 GMT -6
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Post by swurveman on Nov 2, 2017 18:46:40 GMT -6
The thing about desks with racks is monitoring. Just make sure the desk allows you to have your speakers just the way you like them. My racks are a little high, but it's a tradeoff having all the hardware controls nearby.   |
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Post by ragan on Nov 2, 2017 20:56:55 GMT -6
Have you done much building/fabrication, Jesse? If you have, I don’t see why you couldn’t build something like that. |
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ericn
Temp
Balance Engineer
Posts: 15,022 
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Post by ericn on Nov 2, 2017 21:03:54 GMT -6
Tips
Get the height for your console, take time and play with it using stacks of wood for legs and use the console!
From the get go decide if your going to put nearfields and video monitors on a shelf, table mounted stands or separate stands! Keyboard drawers are a simple solution for all that stuff that ends up on the console.
Think cable routing and strain relief behind the console! Do your best to separate power and signal.
Take your time do it right! Rear rails, removeable sides IKEA LED lights, power district from the bottom are simple easy ways of making things easier in the long run.
Build for the future expansion not today!
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Post by indiehouse on Nov 3, 2017 9:05:27 GMT -6
I thought about building a Sterling Modular or something similar at one point. For one, I don't think I have the proper tools to measure and make the angled cuts (not to mention experience). It seemed easy enough to me at first, till I thought about all the precision it would take to do it right, and the time I'd have into building it. I poured over build threads of people doing similar things. I also thought about the cost of materials, etc. that I'd have into this, and that it'd probably have next to no resale value.
I ended up buying a used SM desk.
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Post by Ned Ward on Nov 3, 2017 10:30:13 GMT -6
As others have said, if you've done a lot of woodworking, great then go for it. I've done minimal woodworking, but built a 3 bay x 3 RU monitor shelf for an IKEA desk. it's not pretty, but it gets my 27" monitor, laptop and near fields all on top as well as key gear I need to have at hand. But if I ever went to dual 27" monitors, I'd have to modify the top to be wider for the monitors. But for a home studio it works.
There are a lot of used desks out there on CL and other places, and that may get you close, but know that Omnirax and others are made from laminated MDF, which doesn't lend itself well to modifying.
I'd go on the cheap first and get a table with legs you can adjust. Figure out how tall it needs to be for you, how wide, where you want your monitor(s) to be (both width and height) and then you can build the real thing after living with it.
The 2 side racks are cosmetic and you'd save money buying these used on CL - I see isoracks, etc. pop up all the time.
And from Norm Abrams at the New Yankee Workshop, measure twice, cut once...
good luck!
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Post by johneppstein on Nov 3, 2017 14:09:41 GMT -6
Take your time do it right! Rear rails, removeable sides IKEA LED lights, power district from the bottom are simple easy ways of making things easier in the long run. Be VERY CAREFUL when selercting LED lighting for studio use. It has recently come to my attention that that every LED light bulb or fluorescent tube replement contains a tiny switch mode mode power supply to provide the low voltage DC required by the LEDs and the quality of these supplies varies drastically between brands and possibly even between different lines from the same brands. Some have pretty good onboard noise suppression and some have hardly any at all. I recently saw a article comparing a number (but by no means an exhaustive list) of LED "bulbs" from several companies for RFI emissions any emissions were all over the map, from quite good to amazingly bad. And you can't judge by brand rep, either. Some of the best regarded companies (Phillips, for one, IIRC) have the worst RFI emissions, while some company I never heard of before had the best of the units tested. And of course no noise spec is supplied on the packaging. So my advice would be that before buying a quantity of any one brand or type to first buy a selection of samples from different manufacturers and conduct your own testing. And, of course, post your results here.... |
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ericn
Temp
Balance Engineer
Posts: 15,022
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Post by ericn on Nov 3, 2017 15:03:56 GMT -6
Take your time do it right! Rear rails, removeable sides IKEA LED lights, power district from the bottom are simple easy ways of making things easier in the long run. Be VERY CAREFUL when selercting LED lighting for studio use. It has recently come to my attention that that every LED light bulb or fluorescent tube replement contains a tiny switch mode mode power supply to provide the low voltage DC required by the LEDs and the quality of these supplies varies drastically between brands and possibly even between different lines from the same brands. Some have pretty good onboard noise suppression and some have hardly any at all. I recently saw a article comparing a number (but by no means an exhaustive list) of LED "bulbs" from several companies for RFI emissions any emissions were all over the map, from quite good to amazingly bad. And you can't judge by brand rep, either. Some of the best regarded companies (Phillips, for one, IIRC) have the worst RFI emissions, while some company I never heard of before had the best of the units tested. And of course no noise spec is supplied on the packaging. So my advice would be that before buying a quantity of any one brand or type to first buy a selection of samples from different manufacturers and conduct your own testing. And, of course, post your results here.... So far I found the IKEA with a ferrite beed seam to be fine. |
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Post by NoFilterChuck on Nov 3, 2017 17:41:53 GMT -6
Prototype your desk in Google's SketchUp.
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Post by svart on Nov 6, 2017 9:38:30 GMT -6
Take your time do it right! Rear rails, removeable sides IKEA LED lights, power district from the bottom are simple easy ways of making things easier in the long run. Be VERY CAREFUL when selercting LED lighting for studio use. It has recently come to my attention that that every LED light bulb or fluorescent tube replement contains a tiny switch mode mode power supply to provide the low voltage DC required by the LEDs and the quality of these supplies varies drastically between brands and possibly even between different lines from the same brands. Some have pretty good onboard noise suppression and some have hardly any at all. I recently saw a article comparing a number (but by no means an exhaustive list) of LED "bulbs" from several companies for RFI emissions any emissions were all over the map, from quite good to amazingly bad. And you can't judge by brand rep, either. Some of the best regarded companies (Phillips, for one, IIRC) have the worst RFI emissions, while some company I never heard of before had the best of the units tested. And of course no noise spec is supplied on the packaging. So my advice would be that before buying a quantity of any one brand or type to first buy a selection of samples from different manufacturers and conduct your own testing. And, of course, post your results here.... Not just DC, but current. LEDs are current driven devices. The DC voltage can/will fluctuate. I'd say that the best would be to use multiple small wattage LEDs rather than fewer higher wattage LEDs. The RF hash e-field will be proportional to the current through the inductors, which will be worse the higher the current. Most companies will use the fewest and smallest capacitors they can in switching designs. The higher the wattage of the LED, the higher the peak currents through the inductor will be needed, and if they've skimped on smoothing bulk capacitance, then you'll get more RF hash from the diodes doing their reverse snapping. Also, places like IKEA have LED systems that have the power brick as a separate box with long wires.. You could place that somewhere far away from the audio gear, or shield it with some grounded screen. I use some of these IKEA LEDs for my studio and don't have any RF issues, but none of the bulbs or power bricks are within 8ft of the audio gear. |
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