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Post by jcoutu1 on Mar 10, 2016 12:35:30 GMT -6
I've got a built Sta level sitting here, but not properly working. I've been sitting on it for ages and finally decided that I need to just deal with it myself. It's big and heavy and I don't want to ship it somewhere, so I'll try it myself and hope I don't die int he process. Anyway, it distorts with signal running through it and it seems like I need this T-Pad installed. I just ordered a Mallory 600ohm T-Pad that I want to install. What do I need to do to make this happen? I assume I need to discharge the caps before doing anything so I don't get fried. What's the best way to get them discharged? What else do I need to do? Any help is appreciated. I've got the soldering part down and can follow basic kit building instructions, but don't know anything about anything beyond that. Help me get this sorted!
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Post by svart on Mar 10, 2016 13:03:39 GMT -6
Just leave it unplugged overnight. Shouldn't hold a charge that long. Are the instructions online? can you link to them so we can see?
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Post by jcoutu1 on Mar 10, 2016 13:51:44 GMT -6
I've had it unplugged for a couple months now. Should be good then? Starting around post #6 in this GDIY thread it talks about the attenuator. Bowie (Christian) actually suggested the T-Pad via email when I purchased some new tubes from him. groupdiy.com/index.php?topic=61624.msg780401#msg780401Also, when I purchased the unit (that had issues) the purchaser sent me info from Drip, basically talking about how it needs to be attenuated.
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Post by EmRR on Mar 10, 2016 17:31:51 GMT -6
As well as what svart said, it isn't installed in an electrically active part of the circuit. Just don't do anything stupid.
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Post by jcoutu1 on Mar 15, 2016 9:02:24 GMT -6
Well shit, the shaft of this attenuator is about a mile long. It seems like it has spots to snap it off or something. What's the story with the shaft on this guy?
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Post by svart on Mar 15, 2016 9:29:11 GMT -6
You should be able to snap those off.. But it's not easy. You need to grip the shaft at the point where you need to snap it.. Don't try to use the body of the attenuator to hold it or you'll end up damaging the internals.
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Post by saxmonster on Mar 15, 2016 18:16:03 GMT -6
Dremel it
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Post by rocinante on Mar 17, 2016 8:25:57 GMT -6
Yeah dremel it. If you dont have a dremel, then file it down till you can snap it. In the future to discharge caps you need a 1watt resitor to bleed them. Tons of info online and super easy.
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Post by dandeurloo on Mar 17, 2016 14:24:50 GMT -6
What's the story with the shaft on this guy? That's what she said.
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Post by rocinante on Mar 17, 2016 19:55:51 GMT -6
What's the story with the shaft on this guy? That's what she said. Bravo.
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Post by jcoutu1 on Mar 22, 2016 12:32:06 GMT -6
So I'm looking to put this thing in now, but don't really know what I'm doing. Here are some pics. How do I wire in this new T-Pad? Is the breadboard at the back an attenuator network? Does that stay or do I have to rip that out? Any thoughts before I head to GDIY for help? imgur.com/a/q7s3a
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kosi
Full Member
Posts: 24
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Post by kosi on Mar 23, 2016 3:22:46 GMT -6
It's easy. You go Transformer Out to TPAD, TPAD out to XLR. The breadboard is the old pad, leave it in, until the new one works. When everythings tested, rip it out. Here's a pic from Bowie Attachments:
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Post by jcoutu1 on Mar 23, 2016 4:56:01 GMT -6
It's easy. You go Transformer Out to TPAD, TPAD out to XLR. The breadboard is the old pad, leave it in, until the new one works. When everythings tested, rip it out. Here's a pic from Bowie So when I look at my old output pot, what are the wires i'm seeing? White is input and blue is output? So run both white to the middle of the new T-pad and one blue to the front and one to the back? How do I know which is which?
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kosi
Full Member
Posts: 24
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Post by kosi on Mar 23, 2016 5:49:54 GMT -6
Okay, it took me a bit to understand. Your old pot is connected to the center resistor in the output H-Pad, that someone built before. Also, when I interpret the pic correctly, you have an input H Pad, this seems to be connected okay. You can try to leave this out, after you installed the Mallory.
You don't need the pot and the blue and white cables anymore. Get rid of them.
Take the output cables of your TX, which I guess are connected to the pcb somewhere, disconnect them from the pcb and solder them directly to the mallory, as shown above. From the mallory go directly to the XLR. That's it. Put the Mallory in the hole, where your former output pot resided.
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Post by jcoutu1 on Mar 23, 2016 8:39:55 GMT -6
Okay, it took me a bit to understand. Your old pot is connected to the center resistor in the output H-Pad, that someone built before. Also, when I interpret the pic correctly, you have an input H Pad, this seems to be connected okay. You can try to leave this out, after you installed the Mallory. You don't need the pot and the blue and white cables anymore. Get rid of them. Take the output cables of your TX, which I guess are connected to the pcb somewhere, disconnect them from the pcb and solder them directly to the mallory, as shown above. From the mallory go directly to the XLR. That's it. Put the Mallory in the hole, where your former output pot resided. Shouldn't the output of the Mallory go to the output H-Pad then to the XLR? I guess the transformer wires must connect somewhere on the underside of the PCB? I'll have to pull that out then I guess.
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kosi
Full Member
Posts: 24
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Post by kosi on Mar 24, 2016 10:40:43 GMT -6
The Mallory is rated 4 Watts/15W audio. I installed a Bourns T-Pad in mine, which has only 0,25W power rating, so I put a U Pad in front of it (built w 0,5W resistors). I would say, with 4 Watt, you are on the safe side. read more here: groupdiy.com/index.php?topic=56485.msg720958#msg720958
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Post by jcoutu1 on Mar 25, 2016 12:37:13 GMT -6
The Mallory is rated 4 Watts/15W audio. I installed a Bourns T-Pad in mine, which has only 0,25W power rating, so I put a U Pad in front of it (built w 0,5W resistors). I would say, with 4 Watt, you are on the safe side. read more here: groupdiy.com/index.php?topic=56485.msg720958#msg720958Just found this in the Sta BOM... OUTPUT ATTENUATOR 600 OHMS âTâ MALLORY 600T 5W T-ATTENUATOR : EBAY Mallory T-600 : STREET VALUE : 40$ 10 db pad reccomended on output pre-attenuator . -------------------------------------------------------------- I guess that means I should have the resistors, going to the t-pad, then to the xlr right? Do you know what the wires on my original pot are coming from/going to?
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Post by jcoutu1 on Sept 20, 2016 12:02:11 GMT -6
So it's only 6 months later, but I finally got around to installing this attenuator. Should I run a signal into and test the output with a mult before really hooking it up? What/how would I test the output? Or do I just jam it into my interface and hope for the best?
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Post by jazznoise on Oct 29, 2016 10:27:10 GMT -6
Just run it the way you were running it before and see if it distorts.
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