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Post by scumbum on Jan 18, 2016 22:11:47 GMT -6
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Post by RicFoxx on Jan 19, 2016 6:22:37 GMT -6
Make sure there isn't mold...that last pic looks like there is mold in the drywall. That stuff will deteriorate your health fast.
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Post by svart on Jan 19, 2016 8:10:12 GMT -6
I didn't read the whole thread yet, but a few points of interest:
Metal vs. wood studs ONLY matter if doing a single stud wall. If you do double stud with airspace, it doesn't matter. Go with whatever is cheaper.
If you're doing a double stud wall, the clips don't add anything, neither does resilient channel. Clips/channel only helps on single stud/leaf walls.
If you have a choice, go with double stud walls and more sheetrock rather than fancy tricks like resilient channel or clips.
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ericn
Temp
Balance Engineer
Posts: 14,953
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Post by ericn on Jan 19, 2016 9:58:26 GMT -6
Even after you take care of any water and mold problems, in your case I would look at the Mold resistant drywall just to be safe.
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ericn
Temp
Balance Engineer
Posts: 14,953
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Post by ericn on Jan 19, 2016 10:00:41 GMT -6
The thing I notice more and more is guys using to little caulk and using the wrong caulk! Don't listen to the guy at HD there is a difference between Acustic caulk and the stuff you use on your windows!
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Post by tonycamphd on Jan 19, 2016 10:36:28 GMT -6
I didn't read the whole thread yet, but a few points of interest: Metal vs. wood studs ONLY matter if doing a single stud wall. If you do double stud with airspace, it doesn't matter. Go with whatever is cheaper. If you're doing a double stud wall, the clips don't add anything, neither does resilient channel. Clips/channel only helps on single stud/leaf walls. If you have a choice, go with double stud walls and more sheetrock rather than fancy tricks like resilient channel or clips. even in a 2 leaf system, all things being equal, metal studs (espec 24 OC) are better at NOT transferring, and absorbing vibrational energy due to their lower mass and flexibility allowing energy absorption via insulation, especially in the low bass, in turn making bass response inside the room flatter, and leakage outside the room lesser, there is nothing fancy about RC11, it's tried and true decoupling used in a lot of traditional building applications to keep sound from transferring, such as office spaces/apartment building hallways. It is exactly the 2 tin cans and a string experiment. 4 things should be on your mind whenever you're DIY designing/building for sound proofing Mass=bass stop decoupling=vibration seal air exchange=wrap around/leakage Proper ventilation If i cap my air exchange in my room, you can barely open the door with the 2 ton AC on, and when the door finally lets go, you hear a giant sssssssswwwwwwooooooosssshhhhh! as the room exchanges pressure with the outside world, i can play drums at any hour of the day or night without disturbing anyone but myself for lack of practice... haha
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Post by tonycamphd on Jan 19, 2016 10:53:41 GMT -6
problems pal..., first, you need to go around the outside perimeter of the garage and grade the soil to control aqua away from the footing to manage rain runoff, second, exactly 0 wood should be making contact with the ground at any point, it wicks up like a sponge and destroys! Consider gutters around the perimeter to help direct runoff, and ultimately make sure you have a SEALED concrete footing around, and under all framed walls, if you don't, support the area, dig a footing, or set a keyway and pour a footing. If you get water behind or under all your new work you've trashed big $'s, aint nobody got time fo dat! You also need to pull that drywall as it's all but certain to have mold behind it, if you want anymore info from me? I'm happy to share, PM and we'll talk over the phone... T
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Post by tonycamphd on Jan 19, 2016 12:00:11 GMT -6
tonycamphd - quick question that I was thinking about when looking at houses where I might have to convert a garage re: moisture. Is there any benefit to using one of those garage sealing compounds to prevent ground water from coming up through the concrete? Also, in regards to wood touching the ground... I can report that exactly NOBODY who ever built a house in Los Angeles seems to have learned this - I grew up south of Boston so moisture, grading, gutters, drainage, etc. are things I actually look at and I can't tell you the number of houses where there is direct wood to ground contact (and associated damage) I mean I can't tell you because I lost track of how many places I've looked at but those would be the same number! Just saw a house in Encino where the backyard was concrete walled (so it's a swimming pool) where it's graded so the water runs TOWARDS the house and what little gutters they did have all drained in to the backyard to add to the problem. I guess I shouldn't be so hard on the multiple owners, the house was only built in 1948 it's not like there's been 68 years for someone who isn't an idiot to fix it... oh wait The result (and a warning to scumbum ) the estimate was $45,000 for foundation damage, $10,000 for drainage/gutters plus re-grading... I passed Thanks again for you info/expertise. Technically there should be a solid vapor barrier underneath the slab, but fat chance in LA haha, I worked up there for more than a decade, i've seen exactly what you're talking about all over SoCal, the keys are as i mentioned to scum, priority is grading, get whatever rain comes off the roof flowing away(gutters) from the structure and to proper drainage whether it be daylight or county, next is get all the wood OFF the ground/concrete, next would be to make a monolithic foundation under any/all sill plates that are ABOVE grade. At the big garage door it always an issue, normally driveways are designed to flow water away from the opening, so thats good, but you still have to be wary of water infiltration if you block it off, the best thing to do is cut a keyway and pour a new elevated footing above grade, and tie it into the old footing, if you cant do that, you must seal the crap out of it other ways(too much to type), then when you can verify there is NO water wicking up through the garage floor, you can properly prep it and apply one of those epoxy coatings, but personally i LOVE the sound of a concrete floor, there is something about the reflective air it creates, you can sand them and apply a non pigmented dye and then it'll look great and retain the concrete vibe...again, if anyone is serious about this stuff and you want to talk about it, pm your number and i'll be happy to share what I know. T
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Post by acegunn on Jan 19, 2016 18:14:54 GMT -6
even in a 2 leaf system, all things being equal, metal studs (espec 24 OC) are better at NOT transferring, and absorbing vibrational energy due to their lower mass and flexibility allowing energy absorption via insulation, especially in the low bass, in turn making bass response inside the room flatter, and leakage outside the room lesser, there is nothing fancy about RC11, it's tried and true decoupling used in a lot of traditional building applications to keep sound from transferring, such as office spaces/apartment building hallways. It is exactly the 2 tin cans and a string experiment. I'm sure Tony's already aware of it, but for others, this document contains sound transmission test data for many types of wall construction. Its quite big, but it has test data for both wood and steel stud wall construction. archive.nrc-cnrc.gc.ca/obj/irc/doc/pubs/ir/ir761/ir761.pdf
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Post by scumbum on Jan 19, 2016 22:04:12 GMT -6
As far as the leak issue , I'm gonna get a Pro out here . Its gotta get done right because I'm building a room in here and won't be able to access that wall after the room is built . So that wall has to be 100% before I can build another wall in front of it .
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