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Post by indiehouse on Dec 8, 2015 21:31:58 GMT -6
How are you guys cleaning your boards? I'm using 91% isopropyl and a q-tip. Cleans the flux, but leaves streaks. That normal?
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Post by winetree on Dec 8, 2015 21:46:27 GMT -6
If you can find it, use 99% isopropyl and a toothbrush. Scrub the board and wipe with a cotton cloth. Dip and Clean the toothbrush and scrub and wipe the board again. Sometimes a third time is necessary.
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Post by svart on Dec 8, 2015 22:26:30 GMT -6
Acetone works best. Just be careful with it around parts from ABS.
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Post by mdmitch2 on Dec 8, 2015 22:43:41 GMT -6
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Post by rowmat on Dec 9, 2015 1:36:40 GMT -6
Hmmm, not sure if I'd feel comfortable using acetone. Isopropyl alcohol and a stiff toothbrush to get the majority of the flux off followed by a few minutes in a heated ultrasonic cleaner (water with a little sugar soap). Rinse in warm clean water, blow off excess water with compressed air followed by a hot air gun on medium to dry. Boards end up shiny clean and streak free. Smaller cleaner (2.5 litres) Larger cleaner (30 litres)
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Post by rowmat on Dec 9, 2015 1:57:01 GMT -6
And avoid immersing and unsealed switches, potentiometers, relays etc. and certain unpotted components in the ultrasonic cleaner!
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Post by indiehouse on Dec 9, 2015 10:11:24 GMT -6
Cool, thanks for the tips. Really just looking for a simple solution to clean my builds. I don't know about investing in ultrasonic cleaners and such, though the nerd in me totally digs that! I've read others use a mix of acetone and 99% isopropyl, but that sometimes acetone can eat through some plastics and possibly the coating on some PCB boards. That true?
Also, I've read some guys using denatured alcohol. Is there a difference between isopropyl and denatured? I thing that was annoying me last night when using a q-tip was that the cotton was getting snagged on the soldered leads, leaving little bits of q-tip cotton everywhere. Would wiping with a cotton cloth be as bad? Should I be dabbing instead of wiping?
I want cleaner builds but hate the residue streaks I'm getting now.
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Post by indiehouse on Dec 9, 2015 10:27:45 GMT -6
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Post by svart on Dec 9, 2015 10:34:35 GMT -6
I've used acetone in 3 different jobs, and it's an industry accepted solvent.
It works well because it evaporates cleanly, and quickly. Clean acetone does NOT leave residue.
It also removes rosins really easily. Alcohols can move rosins slowly and don't evaporate cleanly, leaving films. Even clean impure alcohol(rubbing alcohol) WILL leave streaks.
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Post by EmRR on Dec 9, 2015 10:49:53 GMT -6
I rarely find a need to clean anything, though I'm not building/servicing condenser mics.
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Post by indiehouse on Dec 9, 2015 10:57:34 GMT -6
I've used acetone in 3 different jobs, and it's an industry accepted solvent. It works well because it evaporates cleanly, and quickly. Clean acetone does NOT leave residue. It also removes rosins really easily. Alcohols can move rosins slowly and don't evaporate cleanly, leaving films. Even clean impure alcohol(rubbing alcohol) WILL leave streaks. You think the stuff I linked to above will leave streaks? It's 99.9% Ultra Pure Isopropyl Alcohol.
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Post by mdmitch2 on Dec 9, 2015 11:25:52 GMT -6
I've used acetone in 3 different jobs, and it's an industry accepted solvent. It works well because it evaporates cleanly, and quickly. Clean acetone does NOT leave residue. It also removes rosins really easily. Alcohols can move rosins slowly and don't evaporate cleanly, leaving films. Even clean impure alcohol(rubbing alcohol) WILL leave streaks. You think the stuff I linked to above will leave streaks? It's 99.9% Ultra Pure Isopropyl Alcohol. The Amazon stuff is priced weirdly -- the 32 ounce on that same link is $12.95 and ships free if you have prime.... not sure how much shipping is from microcenter. I think I had less streaks with the 99.9% stuff vs 90% but I can't remember for sure....... haven't tried acetone.
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Post by Deleted on Dec 13, 2015 9:53:53 GMT -6
I have a board cleaning spray that is meant for removing flux and resins of all kind, and it works pretty good. It gets all residue off and leaves nothing on the board. AND I would bet from the smell it has, that it contains loads of - simple orange oil - if this isn't even the only ingredient. I used pure orange oil before to remove really bad stains from burnt in resins, fat containing stuff combined with proteins that really have burnt in. It cleaned everything with ease after just a short time of leaving it react on this ugly stuff. Cleans pans that seem lost because of loads of burnt in stuff, even hardest burnt in bongs, lol, a friend of mine tested this after i told him about orange oil and he was totally surprised how fast and effortless it works. In good quality it leaves nothing on surfaces and even smells really good. Also it is not nearly as toxic as the alternatives therefore it could be used in the kitchen, too. Bought it in litre bottles....
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Post by svart on Dec 14, 2015 11:55:22 GMT -6
I have a board cleaning spray that is meant for removing flux and resins of all kind, and it works pretty good. It gets all residue off and leaves nothing on the board. AND I would bet from the smell it has, that it contains loads of - simple orange oil - if this isn't even the only ingredient. I used pure orange oil before to remove really bad stains from burnt in resins, fat containing stuff combined with proteins that really have burnt in. It cleaned everything with ease after just a short time of leaving it react on this ugly stuff. Cleans pans that seem lost because of loads of burnt in stuff, even hardest burnt in bongs, lol, a friend of mine tested this after i told him about orange oil and he was totally surprised how fast and effortless it works. In good quality it leaves nothing on surfaces and even smells really good. Also it is not nearly as toxic as the alternatives therefore it could be used in the kitchen, too. Bought it in litre bottles.... The only thing I'd be concerned with is long term coating, that the orange oil would be slightly corrosive to solder and/or copper. I don't know though.
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Post by mulmany on Dec 14, 2015 13:07:25 GMT -6
I have been using acetone since Svart mentioned it in another thread. Works great, though I will still use a little dish soap and water to remove the thin residue that happens sometimes. svart, do you use 2 dishes, one with "clean" acetone and the other to clean the brush off in?
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Post by svart on Dec 14, 2015 13:17:03 GMT -6
I have been using acetone since Svart mentioned it in another thread. Works great, though I will still use a little dish soap and water to remove the thin residue that happens sometimes. svart , do you use 2 dishes, one with "clean" acetone and the other to clean the brush off in? Nah, I usually just use some paper towels to soak up what is left off the board. I just dip my horsehair brush into the acetone and use it like that, soaking up what's left. Sometimes if I need to flood a large area, I'll just lay some paper towels down and turn the board on it's side and brush, letting the liquid run off the side onto the paper towels.
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Post by Deleted on Dec 14, 2015 13:26:54 GMT -6
I have a board cleaning spray that is meant for removing flux and resins of all kind, and it works pretty good. It gets all residue off and leaves nothing on the board. AND I would bet from the smell it has, that it contains loads of - simple orange oil - if this isn't even the only ingredient. I used pure orange oil before to remove really bad stains from burnt in resins, fat containing stuff combined with proteins that really have burnt in. It cleaned everything with ease after just a short time of leaving it react on this ugly stuff. Cleans pans that seem lost because of loads of burnt in stuff, even hardest burnt in bongs, lol, a friend of mine tested this after i told him about orange oil and he was totally surprised how fast and effortless it works. In good quality it leaves nothing on surfaces and even smells really good. Also it is not nearly as toxic as the alternatives therefore it could be used in the kitchen, too. Bought it in litre bottles.... The only thing I'd be concerned with is long term coating, that the orange oil would be slightly corrosive to solder and/or copper. I don't know though. Pure orange and other citric oils are not corrosive per se. It depends on the pureness. If mixed with water or citric acid it's a completely other story, though. The stuff i used and still use is mostly etheric oil that evaporates pretty fast and therefore has some ideal characteristics to "wash" away the flux residues while leaving no residues itself and cleaning the board in most cases doesn't need any physical force on the pcb at all that could possibly stress solder joints. (Although i used the toothbrush and alcohol method myself in the past and never really cared about the mechanical stress on the solder joints....)
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Post by tonycamphd on Dec 15, 2015 0:45:36 GMT -6
Acetone or 91% alcohol and a toothbrush, old t shirt to wipe it down, works great, I personally would never use water of any kind on a pcb, especially loaded.
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Post by indiehouse on Dec 15, 2015 8:30:28 GMT -6
I ended up grabbing some 99% alcohol from the computer store and an old toothbrush. I'm finding that I need to take 4 or 5 passes at it to remove all of the stickiness from the board. Also, I'm finding it hard to wipe the board because when I clip the leads, they're usually sharp enough to snag on anything I use to wipe it down. That is, I'm soldering from the underside of the board, then trimming the leads after soldering.
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Post by svart on Dec 15, 2015 9:11:47 GMT -6
Acetone or 91% alcohol and a toothbrush, old t shirt to wipe it down, works great, I personally would never use water of any kind on a pcb, especially loaded. Lots of board houses have water-based cleaning processes, for environmental reasons. When picking parts you can generally find parts that are "aqueous washable", which are either sealed on their own, or have some kind of disposable seals that you pull off after washing. PCB material doesn't usually soak water unless it's submerged for a long time, so as long as you don't get water into non-aqueous-washable parts and you dry it off in a reasonable amount of time, water is OK to use on modern FR PCB materials.
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Post by svart on Dec 15, 2015 9:12:53 GMT -6
I ended up grabbing some 99% alcohol from the computer store and an old toothbrush. I'm finding that I need to take 4 or 5 passes at it to remove all of the stickiness from the board. Also, I'm finding it hard to wipe the board because when I clip the leads, they're usually sharp enough to snag on anything I use to wipe it down. That is, I'm soldering from the underside of the board, then trimming the leads after soldering. Use some heat from a hair dryer or heat gun to warm the rosin/flux and it'll clean a lot easier. Once it's hard enough to chip off, it's very hard to wipe off with solvents.
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Post by Deleted on Dec 15, 2015 9:22:06 GMT -6
No joke i have heard more than once of people cleaning console pcbs in the dishwasher. While personally i wouldn't do this to parts of a Neumann desk, i heard of people who did. And it's totally ok if the board dries completely afterwards. With the orange oil it's something different because it would emulgate with the water and the drying process would take much longer. If you want to seal the board with laquer or whatever afterwards, you might run into trouble with corrosion underneath in the long run.
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Post by tonycamphd on Dec 15, 2015 9:29:44 GMT -6
I ended up grabbing some 99% alcohol from the computer store and an old toothbrush. I'm finding that I need to take 4 or 5 passes at it to remove all of the stickiness from the board. Also, I'm finding it hard to wipe the board because when I clip the leads, they're usually sharp enough to snag on anything I use to wipe it down. That is, I'm soldering from the underside of the board, then trimming the leads after soldering. warm is better like svart said, try this, brush up the back of the pcb with your alc, then flip it onto a towel, put your thumbs and fingers in a position to control the pcb, then just make really tight and random circle actions while applying pressure, not enough to pull threads out of the towel, but big enough to get some action, you will be really surprised how clean you board will be when you flip it back over. let us know how you do 8)
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Post by EmRR on Dec 15, 2015 9:34:37 GMT -6
Many old school broadcast guys have no problem taking dirty electronics outside and hitting it with a garden hose, it's more common than you would think. Scroll down for a nice example: www.qsl.net/ve7khz/broadcast.html
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Post by rowmat on Dec 16, 2015 13:17:51 GMT -6
Another thing to consider is an ultrasonic cleaner will reduce the amount of $$ spent on various solvent based cleaning solutions. Unless your PCB's are large a small ultrasonic cleaner can be purchased quite cheaply. Under $100 US. I recommend a unit with a built in heater. Boards come out absolutely spotless and streak free. I'm surprised more electronic DIYer's don't use ultrasonic cleaners.
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