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Post by tonycamphd on Jun 3, 2015 8:56:13 GMT -6
So I was going for a glossy white look on the front panel. I think it looks good, but I'm going to try a matte white and a semi-gloss too. Matte might show more dirt, so I'm thinking semi-gloss should look great. Thoughts? I know you're enjoying this at our expense!.... 8) but i'll bite yet again,.... for the last time,..... I swear I'm not gonna ask again,..... until I ask again,...... What's the name already!?!?!?!?
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Post by kcatthedog on Jun 3, 2015 8:56:20 GMT -6
semi gloss adds depth but doesn't look plasticy ?
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Post by Johnkenn on Jun 3, 2015 9:07:39 GMT -6
I think he's still deciding...
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Post by svart on Jun 3, 2015 9:24:27 GMT -6
I'll look at the level more closely although I'm measuring a ~2dB difference here. I also have some extra series resistance on the output of the DAC to protect the opamps from stray loads/grounding/capacitance which will decrease signal a little. It's a small tradeoff for DC coupling I would think. I also have extra series resistance on the input of the ADC for some protection of the ADC chip, to decouple the input/feedback capacitance, and to match headroom on the opamps. The ADC chip can see a max swing of 5V on the inputs, centered around 2.5V. The opamps are running a 30V swing, so I've traded a lot of opamp headroom for a lower signal. It should help keep the opamps away from the rails and out of non-linearity. I can gain up both a couple dB, but we'll lose what I think is some extra protection. Why not just turn your faders up a bit? I've read this out and about, so don't hold me to it, it's been said the hotter you can run the V on the 4898's, the more opened up the signal they pass becomes? The operational maximum for the AD4898 is +/-16.5V. I'm running them at +/-15V, for about 0.3dB difference in output. Mainly you are looking to operate any opamp close to operational maximum, but not use 100% of the voltage swing, or else you risk losing headroom and slew during large signal excursions that would exceed the current of the part and cause voltage sag. While decoupling will bolster the current up to the part, the part itself can only draw so much current into itself. It's much harder to quantify this amount, as the datasheet only specifies a steady-state amount, usually at a single frequency to boot. Once you get multiple signals or a fast, modulated signal, this current measurement can change pretty drastically depending on the frequency. In RF terms we call this IP2/OP2 and IP3/OP3, or 2nd and 3rd order intercepts. This roughly translates as you put in two tones (sine waves of different frequencies) and jack their levels up until the amplifier starts to compress(saturate/distort) and you'll see harmonics(if you are looking at a spectrum analyzer) or squaring of signals (on o'scopes) due to the headroom of the amplifier being used up. Of course, the higher the levels before the amp distorts, the better. This is why most RF amplifiers are current driven parts. Almost all small gain blocks and LNAs are class A devices and run on a specified current. Even at idle they draw the same amount of current! This keeps crossover distortion from happening, but overall it specifies how much signal you can put into and out of an amplifier at any given moment in time. The voltage on the input of these parts can vary as it's usually drawn through a series RL circuit to match impedance. Voltage driven parts (like most opamps) have a steady voltage rather than a steady current, and the current can vary. Voltage ratings can give you a view of the possible headroom, but don't give you a view of the useful power of the amp before clipping happens. Thus, most designers who use opamps generally shoot for a max operational signal level a couple volts below maximum operating voltage, to ensure that even under the worst cases, you don't stress the part by demanding currents exceeding the opamp's ability. If you wanted to test this, get two signal generators and set one for like 30hz, and another for like 15khz. Combine both through a resistor combiner, and then increase both equally into an opamp while watching the opamp's output. You'll eventually see the low frequency signal increase while the high frequency signal will either stop increasing, or start to decrease and harmonics will come out of the noise floor, showing that the opamp is now failing to draw more current and is starting to saturate. it's interesting stuff, and there are whole branches of engineering that deal with these kinds of things, especially in any kind of transmission/reception and/or test and measurement fields.
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Post by Johnkenn on Jun 3, 2015 9:55:24 GMT -6
My wife says I have voltage sag.
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Post by LesC on Jun 3, 2015 10:13:12 GMT -6
My wife says I have voltage sag. There's a drug for that.
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Post by kcatthedog on Jun 3, 2015 10:30:31 GMT -6
oh,, so that's what "shock the monkey" was really about, Peter is so friggin obtuse !
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Post by tonycamphd on Jun 3, 2015 10:36:00 GMT -6
My wife says I have voltage sag. There's a drug for that. Volatagra and Slewalis right? If you have a rectification lasting more than 4 hours, call all your friends and post a pick on the net 8)
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Post by NoFilterChuck on Jun 3, 2015 12:23:41 GMT -6
I did some sweeps of my room yesterday with both converters. Here's the symphony. here's the svart: for comparison, here's what my sweep actually looked like internally: and the sweep settings, for those curious about that sweep line: I hit that trigger button in the plugin 4x for each converter, so those plots are showing the max levels of all 4 sweeps. it's my unscientific method to average out multiple sweeps. The differences overall of the average height of the two (the svart is roughly .7-1db higher) is because i was using my artist mix to raise the level of the converter output channels, which were grouped. the faders on the artist mix don't track when grouped as accurately as the faders in the daw, so even tho I had the units level matched initially, when i moved the faders on the Artist Mix, their level matched settings were lost when the faders on the artist mix tried to follow the group move.
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Post by formatcyes on Jun 3, 2015 13:27:42 GMT -6
Color leave it silver as your pics above and as someone else posted just put your logo on it, plus RGO speedwagon.
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Post by svart on Jun 3, 2015 13:40:42 GMT -6
Color leave it silver as your pics above and as someone else posted just put your logo on it, plus RGO speedwagon. The chassis will stay silver, the front bezel will be white and the silkscreening will be black for now. If I do more products, I think as new models come around, I'l change their bezel color, or silkscreen color to differentiate them, but leave the generally clean looks.
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Post by wiz on Jun 3, 2015 18:13:08 GMT -6
Color leave it silver as your pics above and as someone else posted just put your logo on it, plus RGO speedwagon. The chassis will stay silver, the front bezel will be white and the silkscreening will be black for now. If I do more products, I think as new models come around, I'l change their bezel color, or silkscreen color to differentiate them, but leave the generally clean looks. Great idea cheers Wiz
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Post by jcoutu1 on Jun 5, 2015 7:04:26 GMT -6
Color leave it silver as your pics above and as someone else posted just put your logo on it, plus RGO speedwagon. The chassis will stay silver, the front bezel will be white and the silkscreening will be black for now. If I do more products, I think as new models come around, I'l change their bezel color, or silkscreen color to differentiate them, but leave the generally clean looks. Found a nice studio kit to go with your new business venture... reverb.com/item/691214-reo-speedwagon-bryan-hitt-ludwig-epic-2010-custom-drum-set
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Post by tonycamphd on Jun 5, 2015 10:50:42 GMT -6
RGOSpeedwagon™
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Post by tonycamphd on Jun 5, 2015 10:52:18 GMT -6
SV Artacus™
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Post by tonycamphd on Jun 5, 2015 10:54:16 GMT -6
SV Artbox™
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Post by tonycamphd on Jun 5, 2015 10:55:38 GMT -6
SV Artbox 2000™
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Post by tonycamphd on Jun 5, 2015 10:57:20 GMT -6
SV Artacus 300™ 8)
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Post by Johnkenn on Jun 5, 2015 11:50:33 GMT -6
MYDIYBOXISBETTERTHANYOUR4000PRISM Box...
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Post by svart on Jun 5, 2015 11:52:30 GMT -6
Yall mugs be trippin.
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Post by kcatthedog on Jun 5, 2015 12:15:19 GMT -6
we have to figure out some way to keep Tony more constructively occupied
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Post by svart on Jun 11, 2015 7:31:07 GMT -6
So some small updates..
I was out of town at a surprise funeral over last weekend and half of this week, so I'm behind a few days on the project.
I'm working on the finish work for the front panels (prep and paint).
I'm also waiting on the silkscreen stuff, which was supposed to be done a couple weeks ago, and is still not done. I've been promised it would be done this week.. We'll see.
I'm working on the last 3 DAC boards for the build.
I've also decided to adjust the LPF on the input to the ADC slightly to gain slightly better flatness.
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Post by popmann on Jun 12, 2015 19:05:01 GMT -6
Hey, is there one of these in Nashville? Shoot me a PM is you can spare it for a day or two. I'm currently testing some various....um, let's call it vinyl recreation systems....(lack of)transient detail in 44.1 recordings is the issue I can't solve externally--I read in here that this thing supposedly has really good transient detail--to the point that someone liked the softer sounding Apogees better? I might've misread, but I thought "no--I need every ounce of PUSH to the transients I can get for this project"....
Shoot me a PM or email if there's one in town I might could borrow for a short test.
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Post by rocinante on Jun 12, 2015 23:39:12 GMT -6
Okay so please forgive me if I missed it but I haven't seen it really answered anywhere in this thread and have been following it for a little while, and I'm in the market for higher quality adda and so: Will you be making this available to purchase anytime in the near future? If so do you plan on releasing this as custom one-offs or do you have plans to have them assembled somewhere? And finally do you have an idea (around) how much? It looks good Svart.
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Post by formatcyes on Jun 13, 2015 0:20:19 GMT -6
Okay so please forgive me if I missed it but I haven't seen it really answered anywhere in this thread and have been following it for a little while, and I'm in the market for higher quality adda and so: Will you be making this available to purchase anytime in the near future? If so do you plan on releasing this as custom one-offs or do you have plans to have them assembled somewhere? And finally do you have an idea (around) how much? It looks good Svart. realgearonline.com/thread/2297/audio-converter-buyer-listA few more details here. Untill svart pops in...
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