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Post by RealNoob on Apr 4, 2023 8:03:57 GMT -6
I was listening to a song in the truck. There was a vocal with a part where she seemed to spike in the 1.5-2k range. I went inside to the LYD 48's, the 8330's and Avantones and nothing convincingly replicated what I hear in the car. This was a first.
I am assuming the truck speakers are thin and are able to respond to transients better? Anyone been through this? I assume I need NS10s now? lol
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Post by svart on Apr 4, 2023 8:21:51 GMT -6
Could actually be the opposite really, that the cones in the vehicle are thin enough to resonate with certain notes. Since most car speakers are "free-air" types, they don't have supporting air volumes to dampen cone movement. Also, not knowing what kind of vehicle or the speaker arrangement, a lot of car manufacturers still use "whizzer" cone speakers rather than proper multi-driver speakers. Whizzers give more surface area for smaller vibrations to couple to the air, so they act kind of like a pseudo-tweeter but the free edges of the smaller cone can easily "flap" and cause weird tones.
Anyway, it's all conjecture here. Typically I would regard the car stereo as less of a critical listening environment and more of just a general translation test.
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Post by niklas1073 on Apr 4, 2023 12:17:00 GMT -6
I experience this quite often in my truck, older Land Rover pickup with really bad audio setup 😄. But yes, theres a wide range where spikes occur in the upper mids. So I dont pay attention to it. I was always taught to listen in various places to my mixes. As a common practice i thought it made sense… until it didn’t. I realized my mixes became a compromise of many bad monitors. I now listen and mix on my headphones and studio monitors, when it sounds correct in this known environment its done (might take a listen on the mobile phone too to see the kick has some punch there too). Otherwise I don’t mind how it sounds in various places, theres too many variables. You seem to have a super nice monitoring, and if your room makes any sense I wouldn't worry about your truck.
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Post by christopher on Apr 4, 2023 12:47:10 GMT -6
NS10s will show it I bet certainly. but a better option is trade in the car  |
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Post by Deleted on Apr 4, 2023 13:21:23 GMT -6
Poor crossovers, drivers, and amplifiers hide things. Monitors hyped up as being accurate on paper are usually far from it in the real world while Yamahas, Auratone 5C, and Fostex 6301 translate!
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Post by RealNoob on Apr 4, 2023 20:52:48 GMT -6
I hear you guys but we all do the car check (or did) and I use references in the car when reviewing my own stuff. The car quickly reveals overlooked low mid build up and excessive low end, as well as when things are gangly (transients overall) - shows as being very inconsistent. Granted I ma not dependent upon the car like I used to be. This was a friends track, listening spontaneously - you just know when something is different after listening to others things.
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Post by Deleted on Apr 4, 2023 21:06:05 GMT -6
I hear you guys but we all do the car check (or did) and I use references in the car when reviewing my own stuff. The car quickly reveals overlooked low mid build up and excessive low end, as well as when things are gangly (transients overall) - shows as being very inconsistent. Granted I ma not dependent upon the car like I used to be. This was a friends track, listening spontaneously - you just know when something is different after listening to others things. I do the car check to check for drum transients and compression. Since switching back to nasty JBL 305s, I’m really good about upper mid issues but drums I check to see if they need to be stupid to cut through that wall of guitars and engine noise. The car shows me if a natural approach does not cut it and I need something that has cracked out transients or distortion like a dbx 160 or vintage warmer. |
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Post by christopher on Apr 5, 2023 0:17:39 GMT -6
I hear you guys but we all do the car check (or did) and I use references in the car when reviewing my own stuff. The car quickly reveals overlooked low mid build up and excessive low end, as well as when things are gangly (transients overall) - shows as being very inconsistent. Granted I ma not dependent upon the car like I used to be. This was a friends track, listening spontaneously - you just know when something is different after listening to others things. Sorry about being snarky earlier. I use NS10s because, while other modern monitors can sound wonderful, I’m really terrible about making things sounding better than references. Which is SUPER easy for me to do, since almost every mix is 5 dB rms these days= just some compressed thump and fuzzy top. In my world a -20dB RMS mix will demolish a modern reference in terms of realism, emotion, and pure beauty. Especially if level matched. It’s so incredibly better there are no words. But I can’t share that to the modern car universe, who is using modern class D amp all DSP’d to death. It sort of sounds awesome but is way, way too quiet. Compared to the 5 RMS stuff, which is all thumping and fuzzy top all the time. And so I’m miserable with NS10, truly. I can mix in the safe zone in DT770 and get no surprises at the car. Or I can use the NS10, know exactly how bad that headphone mix sounds, work like hell to fix it, end up with something that I know is great but that new car owners have no clue why it’s not thumping without a fuzzy top |
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Post by Deleted on Apr 5, 2023 0:21:50 GMT -6
I hear you guys but we all do the car check (or did) and I use references in the car when reviewing my own stuff. The car quickly reveals overlooked low mid build up and excessive low end, as well as when things are gangly (transients overall) - shows as being very inconsistent. Granted I ma not dependent upon the car like I used to be. This was a friends track, listening spontaneously - you just know when something is different after listening to others things. Sorry about being snarky earlier. I use NS10s because other stuff sounds wonderful but I’m really terrible about making things sounding better than references. Which is SUPER easy for me to do, since almost every mix is 5 dB rms these days= just some compressed thump and fuzzy top. In my world a -20dB RMS mix will demolish a modern reference in terms of realism, emotion, and pure beauty. Especially if level matches. It’s so incredibly better there are no words. But I can’t share that to the modern car universe, who is using modern class D amp all DSP’d to death. It sort of sounds awesome but is way, way too quiet. Compared to the 5 RMS stuff, which is all thumping and fuzzy top all the time. And so I’m miserable with NS10, truly. I can mix in the safe zone in DT770 and get no surprises at the car. Or I can use the NS10, know exactly how bad that headphone mix sounds, work like hell to fix it, end up with something that I know is great but that new car owners have no clue why it’s not thumping without a fuzzy top Man to get that loud stuff, I have to do some incredibly dumb shit in mastering to keep the tonal balance at the cost of massive IMD. Even if I saturate the mix waveforms into a bunch of turds, I'm still not as loud as contemporary stuff unless my two bus dynamics are mega aggressive. |
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