About finished the mouse turd, mud, and mud dauber nest removal and starting to put this console I got from Jim Dickinson’s son Luther (of North Mississippi Allstars) back together.
I sent an input channel, the center section, and for shits and giggles an output card to Jim Williams. This is an early 70’s chip based console, and while the input and output transformers and inductor EQs are great for vibe, I’ve had Jim upgrade several chip based consoles and it’s always for the better. Especially the center section. So, I’m waiting for those to arrive and because it’s not practical to send the whole console to Jim, I’m going to do the rest of the channels myself.
Matt @ IAA offered to make some new output cards, because I’m missing a few. I think it be a great thing for him to sell because whenever people rack these channel strips, they need those and they’ve gotten pretty pricey on eBay.
I had a friend make some new birch side panels because the originals were water damaged and the laminate was peeling off. Not a great picture because it’s in my storage room but I’m happy with how they turned out!
I got the legs back from the welder, and they are pretty much an exact match to the originals. I’ve tracked down almost every component that was missing, so for shits and giggles I loaded it up to see how it’ll look. Still a lot left to be done (recapping, wiring, repairing some modules) and I want to build a little keyboard / mouse shelf that will sit above the faders
Pretty much every Auditronics console that's still in service today has been heavily modified. A popular mod is it change the output buss cards to use 2520 op-amps, essentially making them API 325. Some try to use 2520's in the channels themselves.
I decided to go a different route and send a channel to Jim Williams to make it direct couple, no capacitors in the signal path, but still utilize the Jensen transformers. Like a GML with Jensen transformers and inductor EQs. Since the console didn't come with a power supply, I have a modern Power One that's 6 amps, so it'll be able to handle the current draw of the high speed op-amps. It's not practical to send 16 channels and 10 output cards to Jim so I'm going to modify the rest of the channels myself. Nothing like spending $700 on capacitors, resistors, op-amps and adapters!
Refurbishing this Auditronics console is no joke. So far I've replaced about 400 parts and soldered about 1500 joints. And I haven't even started on the patch bay...
Oof, hopefully it won’t be much worse than the old edge-connector-laden Trident TSM patchbay over here.
This is a seriously cool project in general, I love the 110b modules, especially the eq. Different sound and feel than most other inductor eq’s; it’s what made me first realize that the 5534 is downright euphonic in the right circuit.
Dang dude this is rad. I'm in the midddle of an Electrodyne 1204 build myself - aproaching 2 years now. Can't tell you how many "ok this is the last mouser order" I've done. Finally a light at the end of the tunnel. Congrats on the board, it looks great.
Funny enough the guy I bought it from found the original power supply, so hopefully I'll get to fire one of these consoles up soon. One just sold for $12,500 on Reverb which is definitely motivating me to finish the other one!
So how many opamps are in this thing? Having designed in the ADA4898-2, they are thermal nightmares. The exposed paddle underneath MUST be heatsunk so no SOIC to DIP adapter I know of can handle these and you need to use a small heatsink otherwise or you get much too close to the Tj limits of the die.
They are also much more power hungry than older opamps and tend to cause issues with inrush currents tripping current protections on power supplies and making older power connectors very warm.
95% of the way there on the “stock” console. Recapped, lots of replaced parts that were missing/failed. I have two fader that aren’t working, need to track down two more, and one channel is still wonky and has a short somewhere (with the input gain at -40 it’s more like 0)
Also, there’s a reason they replaced one of the original VU’s because it’s dead. So I’m going to try and take the logo out and pop it into the replacement meter so it matches.