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Post by johneppstein on Sept 17, 2020 23:10:24 GMT -6
I wish somebody would make a stereo V72 or V76 clone in a 2u chassis. 1u would be even better, but I realize that it's tough to fit all of those tubes in that small of a space, especially when considering heat. You might try hanging the tubes out the back, like they did with rack gear in the old days. Good ventilation!
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Post by johneppstein on Sept 17, 2020 23:08:22 GMT -6
No, I don't believe it does, at least in most cases. LEDs are generally very low voltage devices and you could just rectify a tap off the heater line in a tube unit. Thanks I might try that in my Selmer tube amp. I am trying to convert the lamp power indicator to an LED, that's a great idea. Most pilot lights in guitar amps already run off the 6.3 VAC heater line. For an LED you'll probably want a resistor in series with the LED.
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Post by johneppstein on Sept 17, 2020 23:01:14 GMT -6
Yes, of course.
Superior isolation (electronic output has none), Arguably better balancing on the output (not all "electronically balanced" outputs are actually balanced), lower noise (any stage with an amplifier in it generates some noise), different and possibly lower distortion (depending on quality), much less susceptibility to ground loops (tranformers provide isolation, electronic circuits don't), much better reliability (active circuits often fail, transformers seldom do unless thery're badly abused), etc, etc, etc.
Electronic balancing came in because it's significantly cheaper.
Not "opinion" - FACT.
For a layman this fact is interesting I always thought my 1073 sounds best if I try to avoid the transformer artifacts as good as I can, meaning not driving to hot in or out.
Sure. You want something really bad sounding? Try overdriving a typical transformerless output.
But some people seem to like that, I guess....
Understand, most console (or preamp) outputs were not intended to be overdriven by the designers. IMO the thing about overdriving transformer outs was largely the influence of guitar players used to guitar amps. YMMV.
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Post by johneppstein on Sept 17, 2020 13:05:41 GMT -6
Doug, would it be a big deal to include a light showing signal present at the input of the device? That's my only beef with pre's that don't have metering. A detector/indicator circuit like that still requires a separate power supply section for SS circuit voltages, plus the detection and LED driver circuit itself. In this sort of case I'm not sure that you don't have to have a parallel preamp circuit to raise mic level high enough to drive a detector circuit successfully. I don't know how cheaply it could be done, it certainly raises production costs, changes internal design, etc. No, I don't believe it does, at least in most cases. LEDs are generally very low voltage devices and you could just rectify a tap off the heater line in a tube unit.
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Post by johneppstein on Sept 17, 2020 12:52:00 GMT -6
Other important benefits of the transformers are their ease of converting unbalanced lines into balanced and ability of perfectly symmetrical cable drive and thus very high noise rejection. Best, M . Original question was if OTs make sense in a console? What's your opinion? Yes, of course.
Superior isolation (electronic output has none), Arguably better balancing on the output (not all "electronically balanced" outputs are actually balanced), lower noise (any stage with an amplifier in it generates some noise), different and possibly lower distortion (depending on quality), much less susceptibility to ground loops (tranformers provide isolation, electronic circuits don't), much better reliability (active circuits often fail, transformers seldom do unless thery're badly abused), etc, etc, etc.
Electronic balancing came in because it's significantly cheaper.
Not "opinion" - FACT.
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Post by johneppstein on Sept 16, 2020 20:29:44 GMT -6
Wow, brilliant scores on the Silvertone cab and the Deluxe. Which Vox did you end up with? I don't like the Bandmaster head at all I prefer the Showman, big beefy iron. I had a blackface Bandmaster that didn't stay long, but I have a silver faced Showman that's getting set back up today probably. You might want to try to find a Silvertone 1484 or 1485 head to go with that cabinet. A lot of them are really beat up now. But 1484 was my main amp for many years. I need to track down another one. A Bandmaster sounds a lot better with a Bassman OT. Th Bandmaster trannie is pretty anemic.
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Post by johneppstein on Sept 16, 2020 16:37:54 GMT -6
These days I usually stick to the guitar forum over there. It's bad enough, I don't need more tsouris.
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Post by johneppstein on Sept 15, 2020 23:36:05 GMT -6
Can't even buy in a store on Sunday. One of the several reasons I decided not to move to Nashville. Flew in late on a Saturday, no booze anywhere. Not even the airport. You can buy it here on Sunday. Well, when I was contemplating moving to Nashville and visited in 2016 there were no open places in Nashvile that I could find, nor could my guide/driver/real estate agent.
Bars, yes. Stores, no.
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Post by johneppstein on Sept 13, 2020 20:17:02 GMT -6
Yeah just confirmed it’s a no go in TN. Bible Belt. Can't even buy in a store on Sunday. One of the several reasons I decided not to move to Nashville. Flew in late on a Saturday, no booze anywhere. Not even the airport.
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Post by johneppstein on Sept 13, 2020 20:03:18 GMT -6
You PS has loose plates that are actuated by the magnetic field to cause the noise. Try tightening the bolts/screws that hold the tranny together as well as the ones that mount it. With luck that will help.
THX John for your expert opinion. It's better since the recapping I tightened the screws which mount the tranny to the housing. The transformer is glued together, as far as I understand it there are no screws for the transformer housing.
Most transformers of any appreciable size should have four bolts in the corners that hold them together and hold the cover plates on. Sometimes they have extended ends used for securing the transformer to the chassis. These are the screws/bolts to which I referred. I find it very hard to conceive of a power transformer for a console that lacks these bolts. There should be one set of nuts that hold the tranny together and a second set on the same bolts to secure the tranny to the chassis. I suppose it's possible that they might save a few pennies by eliminating four of the nuts, but I would find it surprising that Harman would be that cheap. Behringer, maybe, but not Harman.
The transformer should also be potted with a laquer dip, what you refer to as "glue".
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Post by johneppstein on Sept 12, 2020 19:44:17 GMT -6
So is it actually buzzing, or is there a clogged fan?
THE PSU makes a buzz and it is the transformer. All caps look good, but hey its a 23 years old PSU.
There is no noise or hum in the audio path🙏
The PSU buzz gets louder under load from the delta.
I may start recapping the PSI first?
You PS has loose plates that are actuated by the magnetic field to cause the noise. Try tightening the bolts/screws that hold the tranny together as well as the ones that mount it. With luck that will help.
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Post by johneppstein on Sept 12, 2020 19:35:14 GMT -6
Talk about a good neat Bourbon. Finished in port barrels. Has a hint of cherry. Delicious I could be wrong, but I don't believe that's a real Bourbon. There are rather strict rules governing what can be sold under the "Bourbon" label and I don't believe that includes rye as a grain. I believe that "Rye Whiskey" is its own category.
I like ryes, btw, better than most real bourbons, which are a tad sweet for me.
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Post by johneppstein on Sept 11, 2020 22:21:28 GMT -6
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Post by johneppstein on Sept 11, 2020 22:16:26 GMT -6
Bulleit Rye is my staple. Oaky, cheap, good. Since this has turned into an alcoholics anonymous thread , Wild Turkey 101 hasn't let me down in years. If Turkey is too much alcohol, Eagle Rare is my next choice. 80 proof and tastes identical to Turkey. Probably my favorite honestly. I like Turkey in those rare cases when I'm on a plane...
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Post by johneppstein on Sept 11, 2020 12:54:31 GMT -6
Never had Pappy...I’ve heard some say it’s fantastic and some say it’s overrated. Been drinking a bottle of Woodford Double Oaked that’s really good. Love Angels Envy, Jefferson and Weller of course, but there’s nothing wrong with a $25 bottle of Bulliet or Rittenhouse. Bulleit Rye is my staple. Oaky, cheap, good. Laphroaig!
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Post by johneppstein on Sept 9, 2020 5:28:44 GMT -6
I saw someone said they could get the 3M tape off with some Mineral Spirits. Yep, for a flat piece of aluminum under a pedal, I wouldn't give any damns. Except that I wouldn't trust 3M (or any other doublestick tape) for such use in anything but a temporary application.
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Post by johneppstein on Sept 8, 2020 13:48:00 GMT -6
I'd like to point out that the original question concerned rubber mats under pedals, not guitar pick guards. They are entirely different materials in entirely different situations, and should not use the same types of adhesive. Guitar pickguards have been known to shrink, cracking the guitar top. For this reason crystalline glues may not always be the best choice. I would check with Stew-Mac or a similar authority in such cases.
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Post by johneppstein on Sept 7, 2020 17:13:49 GMT -6
I have a friend in LA who knows a LOT about Q8 stuff. Dunno if he'd be interested in advising on this or not.
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Post by johneppstein on Sept 5, 2020 13:33:09 GMT -6
I have an original Ibanez AD9 delay I need to use for a quick gig Saturday - only two pedals vs. my pedalboard. Back when the AD9 was on my pedalboard, I took off the PVC rubber pad on the bottom to get better adhesion for the velcro, but now that it will be on the floor, need to put it back on. Any suggestions on what to use? Don't want to use something that will melt 35 year old PVC... thanks! Pliobond contact cement. An OEM version is included in JBL recone kits. Shake well before using.
Second choise would be DAP Weldwood contact cement, which is what we used to adhere Tolex to cabinets.
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Post by johneppstein on Sept 5, 2020 1:02:50 GMT -6
Not really audio, but my new TV came today. Now I can finally subscribe to Netflix!
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Post by johneppstein on Sept 5, 2020 0:38:30 GMT -6
Took another look on a bigger screen and the cap does have a red dot on top for polarity, so it's most likely tantalum after all. Just because a schematic has a polarity mark doesn't mean the part is polar. And no, tantalum doesn't go bad with age like an electrolytic cap does. They can be damaged by misuse, but that's not the same thing at all. However, I do see a crack in the enamel, which might expose the tantalum slug to air, which will make it go bad as it oxidizes, so it's best to replace it now. I'd go with a ceramic or good electrolytic here unless you just want the tantalum sound. Tantalums are somewhat sensitive to thermal cycling, or used to be.
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Post by johneppstein on Sept 5, 2020 0:29:43 GMT -6
So? And your point is? It IS an interesting stastic, but no real meaning to the overarching problem, far as I see.
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Post by johneppstein on Sept 5, 2020 0:26:41 GMT -6
Specifically not peer revued yet. Just sayin'.....
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Post by johneppstein on Sept 3, 2020 17:26:56 GMT -6
I've been looking at Mouser. Would something like THIS work? I'm not sure what voltage I should be getting. Since the mic is apart there's no harm in swapping this component out and seeing what happens. I have two others. But as somebody else mentioned, the noise floor thing thing could simply be the aging of the capsule. Usually I'm not a big fan of hand held condenser mics, especially live. But for whatever reason this mic is a real winner on acoustic (when the noise floor isn't an issue.) Should work fine. Yeah, the electret capsules are bad about losing their potency, but they also naturally have a higher noise floor anyway. Actually those EVs are pretty good about retaining their charge, unlike the really early Sony electrets, which were pretty terrible. By the time EV brought those out the technology was already at least 10 years old (IIRC) and had undergone considerable improvement.
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Post by johneppstein on Sept 2, 2020 16:19:11 GMT -6
The black thing with "3.3k" is the capacitor. Hard to tell if it has polarity markings but it's either ceramic or tantalum. Ceramic it's non-polar but tantalum and electrolytic have a polarity. Ceramic and tantalum don't go bad like electrolytic do, so it might not need replacing. If you do, ceramic is fine. That seems to be the case, judging by the looks and the schematic it’s likely to be a tantalum cap, and therefore unlikely to have gone bad (as opposed to failing outright). If it’s not a bad cap, and given that the capsules in these mics are electret-based, it’s entirely possible that the charge of the electret material has faded over time causing lack of sensitivity and a higher noise floor. Which would be a bummer, because these mics are otherwise pretty solid. As the owner (and recapper) of a Studer A800, I can tell you that, contrary to what was believed a couple decades age, tantalum caps most definitely DO go bad. They are also VERY sensitive to reverse voltage. When I got my Studer I was told to go ahead and replace all the tantalums with electrolytics. Modern electros last a lot longer than most tantalums. The one problem with replacing a tant with an electro here could be size - tantalums are still smaller.
EDIT: I just saw the new pics and the small black thing on the switch is definitly a tantalum capacitor. If you replace it with another tant, make ABSOLUTELY CERTAIN that you get the polarity right or you will blow it as soon as power is applied. They're intolerant little buggers. I would see if I could find an mini electrolytic that would fit, but it's tight.....
EDIT 2: For gluing the thing back together I would use an industrial contact cement. My first choice would probably be Pliobond (shake before using, even if you get it in a tube) or (second) DAP Weldwood contact cement. One of these is likely what was used originally.
Pliobond sticks to metal very well - JBL uses an OEM version in their recone kits.
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