New Old Sound Monitor Controllers

So can someone explain to me why I would want one of these? I have digital and analog outs on my soundcard, the digital goes to the JBL monitors, and the analog goes to an amp and then to a switch and to two sets of analog speakers. I can just enable/disable the analog or digital signals and control their volumes right in windows audio control panel... No expensive controllers needed..

Am I missing something?

I don't really do much changing.  I just move my faders on my mixer's master output and watch my inputs to the soundcard.  I have the monitors preset for around 80db volume at around -12RMS input to the soundcard, so as I hit my optimal input range, my monitors are at their optimal listening range..  Isn't that what everyone else does?

Hi Laurence, sorry, I still haven't changed from the Dangerous Source.  I've made my monitoring a bit more complex with the addition of an SVS SB-2000 sub (I know most on here hate subs, other than sandwiches, no need to berate me).  I love the sub, and I've set it up so that with the Source I can switch between the Rocks full-range with no sub, and the Rocks high-passed via the sub's output.  This is a similar setup to how the Focal Sub6 is typically used, but much less expensive and still very high quality.

I'll also be adding a preamp, having trouble deciding between the Heritage DMA-73 and the Great River MP-2NV, both have fans on this site.

I'll never be able to get enough room treatment in here, so I'll also be getting either a DSpeaker Anti-Mode 2.0 Dual Core or a MiniDSP Dirac box, which are kind of like 1KMultimedia ARC system on steroids.

I'll also be either replacing my RME UFX with a Lynx Hilo, or just adding the Hilo.  Once I figure that out, I'll know if I need the Source's DA.  If not, then I would replace the Source with the Drawmer MC2.1.

This process will take several months.  I'm going to trade some stuff to get the Lynx Hilo, and see if that would be sufficient in conjunction with my Burl B2 ADC.  If so, I'll trade the UFX for one of the preamps.  Etc, etc, etc.  A lot for me to think about, and keeping me busy along with my teaching full-time at two separate colleges, so everything music-wise is going a lot slower than I had hoped.

For me, it provides 3 Speaker outs (only use 2 right now), mono fold down, alternate inputs, and a non digital (no truncation) volume control.

The McTwo's rack-mount main unit is quite different from the one shown on ZenPro's site and the one shown in the first post in this thread.  The old pictures show a 2-unit size, whereas the new one is 1-unit and quite a bit nicer IMO.  Here is what the unit looks like now:



Also, the control unit size is quite different than what's shown on ZenPro's site.

ZenPro shows:  2.5(W) X 2.3(H) X 4.0(D) inches

NOS shows:  12.5(W) X 3.5(H) X 9.0(D) inches

I don't have any complaints here. MCOne has been great, no issues. If there is a degradation in sound quality I can't hear any. I am using a RM superbeast.

Maybe the source did not like the passive load on its output? Seem strange though.

Dan, where you been lolo? We haven't been hanging out in the same threads lol. Win a compressor and you disappear lol

Still here JK , Always quickly checking in to see whats happening. Almost Daily... 

Day job has just been CRAZY CRAZY!! and then trying to still get some recording time and writing time (not alot of it though), hoping to get a cut soon

Loving the FC526... will soon have to grab another.

Essentially, a passive monitor controller is an attenuator with resistors and that's it.
"Shitty" can relate to the overall quality of connectors and switches. Mechanic connections are a weak point in a signal chain. Also internal cabling and solder joints etc.
"Worn out" is just this. Even well manufactured passive controllers can become flakey, if mechanics wear out. If the controller even uses potentiometers instead of rotary switches, things are even worse. These can lose stereo tracking, increase noise and really degrade the signal quality. Also, one must be aware, that not every stepped control is a rotary switch, but can be a potentiometer, which is by far inferior.
"Normal" means, that the controller just does what it is supposed to do. Attenuate cleanly. In the beginning, most passive controllers do this nicely, then many degrade, see above, sooner or later. The later, the better.
Why can they compete with more expensive active designs? Well, if the source is able to drive the attenuated line up to the amp, you have nothing but a resistive attenuation, and this is as clean as it gets. Active designs normally imply some kind of coloring, that is noticable, i.e. the 'sound' of the opamps. Therefore expensive active designs like SPL or others use quite high quality buffering opamps.
For short cable runs, passive controllers are as good as it gets.

The Central station without the remote is oK sounding but falls victim to its price point build with the remote it sounds like ass!
Honestly if you like the sound of your AD and don't need talkback or speaker switching a good ADC/Switchcraft/Moss & Mitchell ect. Patchbay and a simple well built Passive attenuators is the way to go!