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Post by guitfiddler on May 5, 2015 7:46:26 GMT -6
I went with the Hakko Fx-888D. Came with 5 tips for $125. Most of the parts for my new C-12 project just came in, so I'm looking forward to getting this show on the road. Thanks for the advice! Do you have a link for that 888 w/ 5 tips you bought. I'm looking too. Thanks What tips do you recommend for the Hakko 951? What sizes, and how many tips do you actually use/need? |
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Post by svart on May 5, 2015 9:31:09 GMT -6
I gotta say that I don't understand the love for hakko irons. I've been a professional solder-er for 20 years and they are mediocre at best, and I've used most of them up to the current generations. I still love my older Metcal station for general use and I would tell everyone to get a used Metcal before getting a new hakko every day of the week. Hakko is still better than a weller though. Somewhat unrelated but I use one of these JBC stations at work and it's simply the best soldering iron there is: www.qsource.com/p-3015-jbc-tools-ddve-1a-ddve-premium-series-esd-safe-digital-rework-station-120v.aspx |
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Post by ben on May 5, 2015 12:39:40 GMT -6
I went with the Hakko Fx-888D. Came with 5 tips for $125. Most of the parts for my new C-12 project just came in, so I'm looking forward to getting this show on the road. Thanks for the advice! Do you have a link for that 888 w/ 5 tips you bought. I'm looking too. Thanks , I'm sure those are really nice irons, but man, they are way out of the park price wise. I guess if I were doing this for a living, I'd spring for it, but for the price I'm really digging this Hakko. Hell, the most expensive iron I've had up to this point was under $40. |
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Post by svart on May 5, 2015 13:23:38 GMT -6
I bought one of my used Metcals for 50$ on ebay. i see them there for less than 100$ all the time. Even with a couple used tips it would still be cheaper than that hakko... |
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Post by guitfiddler on May 6, 2015 4:58:00 GMT -6
Thanks Ben, Svart. I'm not an expert, but I will start building my mic collection, soon. Can't wait to get started.
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Post by guitfiddler on May 6, 2015 4:59:01 GMT -6
Thanks Ben, Svart. I'm not an expert, but I will start building my mic collection, soon. Can't wait to get started. Can you recommend some tips that you use most? What type/kind of solder? I am willing to pay a little more if it means that the mic will be better or easier to work on. |
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Post by Johnkenn on May 18, 2015 21:37:33 GMT -6
Good info on here...I'm going to get up the nerve...
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Post by Deleted on May 19, 2015 6:11:53 GMT -6
Thanks Ben, Svart. I'm not an expert, but I will start building my mic collection, soon. Can't wait to get started. Can you recommend some tips that you use most? What type/kind of solder? I am willing to pay a little more if it means that the mic will be better or easier to work on. Well, a rule of thumb for electronics soldering like we do is using the old non-green 60-40 non lead-free solder with a flux core. It makes it much easier to identify bad solder joints, has a better float and gets wet at much lower temperatures than lead-free. Highly recommended. If you want it to be convenient, esp. for mics, you may use no-clean solder, which has a flux core that doesn't leave nearly as much residue around the solder joints as - worst case - rosin core solder. For tips, use the size that corresponds best to the size of the solder pads of the PCBs. Using bigger tips makes it difficult to be precise enough and heats up more of the PCB as necessary, using smaller tips or needle tips needs much longer time to heat up the pad, which is something you definitely want to avoid. |
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Post by Deleted on May 19, 2015 6:28:01 GMT -6
Good info on here...I'm going to get up the nerve... ...which i consider a very good thing. DIYing stuff is not witchcraft. There are *very* good kits out there nowadays and you *don't* have to be an electronics genius anymore that can take a look at a schematic, goes to the computer, simulates it, finds errors, corrects them, researches part sources and makes orders from a dozen companies, designs a PCB, etches it, and starts soldering, tests the functionality, starts to design PCB rev.1...like it was ~10-15 yrs. ago.... The internet did alot for knowledge exchange, demystification, freely available schematics, project descriptions, BOMs, PCB designs....up to complete kits with pictured build guides, which ensure a very good and rewarding building experience... |
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Post by guitfiddler on May 19, 2015 12:38:34 GMT -6
Can you recommend some tips that you use most? What type/kind of solder? I am willing to pay a little more if it means that the mic will be better or easier to work on. Well, a rule of thumb for electronics soldering like we do is using the old non-green 60-40 non lead-free solder with a flux core. It makes it much easier to identify bad solder joints, has a better float and gets wet at much lower temperatures than lead-free. Highly recommended. If you want it to be convenient, esp. for mics, you may use no-clean solder, which has a flux core that doesn't leave nearly as much residue around the solder joints as - worst case - rosin core solder. For tips, use the size that corresponds best to the size of the solder pads of the PCBs. Using bigger tips makes it difficult to be precise enough and heats up more of the PCB as necessary, using smaller tips or needle tips needs much longer time to heat up the pad, which is something you definitely want to avoid. Thank You! |
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Post by svart on May 19, 2015 13:22:23 GMT -6
Thanks Ben, Svart. I'm not an expert, but I will start building my mic collection, soon. Can't wait to get started. Can you recommend some tips that you use most? What type/kind of solder? I am willing to pay a little more if it means that the mic will be better or easier to work on. 60-40 flux core. I often add some no-clean flux or rosin as I solder depending on what I'm trying to achieve. I also have rolls of lead-free and silver solder but I mostly use 60/40. As for tips, I have most every kind made for my irons (dozens and dozens of them), but I often only use about 5-6 of them for everyday work. 1. Super fine straight point (for very small stuff, SMD and small wires) 2. Fine 45deg angle (getting in and around parts, SMD) 3. Rounded general purpose (for lots of general soldering, bigger wires, leaded parts) 4. Medium rounded with flat (often called a horse hoof, heating big through-holes, and large parts) 5. Large rounded with flat (horse hoof, used for heavy heating for ground planes, etc) 6. Flat/blade (for heating flat surfaces like shielding, etc) |
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Post by guitfiddler on May 19, 2015 14:55:09 GMT -6
Can you recommend some tips that you use most? What type/kind of solder? I am willing to pay a little more if it means that the mic will be better or easier to work on. 60-40 flux core. I often add some no-clean flux or rosin as I solder depending on what I'm trying to achieve. I also have rolls of lead-free and silver solder but I mostly use 60/40. As for tips, I have most every kind made for my irons (dozens and dozens of them), but I often only use about 5-6 of them for everyday work. 1. Super fine straight point (for very small stuff, SMD and small wires) 2. Fine 45deg angle (getting in and around parts, SMD) 3. Rounded general purpose (for lots of general soldering, bigger wires, leaded parts) 4. Medium rounded with flat (often called a horse hoof, heating big through-holes, and large parts) 5. Large rounded with flat (horse hoof, used for heavy heating for ground planes, etc) 6. Flat/blade (for heating flat surfaces like shielding, etc) Thanks! |
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Post by Deleted on May 19, 2015 18:47:10 GMT -6
This said, 2 hours ago or so, i was at my ex's place, and - 2 tiny SMD electros fell off the internal soundcard, maybe due to physical stress while cleaning the inside of the computer. Guess what, i fixed it by soldering them with what was there. Some rosin core solder and a huge pistol type of monster iron and strong reading glasses and fine pliers. Felt like hammering in a fine needle with a sledge hammer under a microscope. Worked. WTF... o.O
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Post by category5 on May 20, 2015 15:46:43 GMT -6
60/40 is good but 63/37 is much better. It has no plastic phase like 60/40 so cold joints are less common.
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Post by guitfiddler on May 20, 2015 20:34:59 GMT -6
I am still making notes and making decisions on equipment. I will be building soon I hope.
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