ericn
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Balance Engineer
Posts: 16,107 
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Post by ericn on Feb 23, 2015 18:07:21 GMT -6
Mine is a older version of that one, bought it and a lot of stuff back when my cousins were Marketing and National Sales Manager, I could walk into any Harbour Freight and buy at their Discount price. |
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Post by mulmany on Feb 24, 2015 0:01:36 GMT -6
its coming along... just need to make the L bracket and the faceplate line up without pinching the buttons. Also found that the hardware I thought would fit does not, hence the zips. The meter screws need to be minuscule!  [/URL] |
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Post by NoFilterChuck on Feb 25, 2015 0:07:06 GMT -6
MAKE SURE THE TRANSISTORS ON THE OP AMPS ARE RAISED OFF OF THE PCB A 1/16TH OF AN INCH!!!!
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Post by mulmany on Feb 25, 2015 7:06:30 GMT -6
MAKE SURE THE TRANSISTORS ON THE OP AMPS ARE RAISED OFF OF THE PCB A 1/16TH OF AN INCH!!!! Thanks... I figured it was a requirement due to the spacers that I did not buy. Plugged it in and tested last night. It works with no smoke! But... I was not getting much compression. I should have followed my instinct with the EL panel, I had it backwards/upside down. FYI, Blue/Green dual LED S are incredibly bright. May need to change those out. NoFilterChuck, are you mulletchuck over at groupdiy.com? |
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Post by keymod on Feb 25, 2015 8:00:12 GMT -6
No smoke is always a good thing.
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Post by mulmany on Feb 25, 2015 23:09:06 GMT -6
keymod, just a note... you need M2-10 with nut and washer for attaching the meter, and 4-40 3/4" and 1" for the trannys. I need to do some trouble shooting now... dropped it while working on bolting up the trannys. Now the EL panel is not working and it was lighting up last night.
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Post by NoFilterChuck on Feb 25, 2015 23:14:35 GMT -6
yes, i'm mulletchuck
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Post by keymod on Feb 26, 2015 7:02:53 GMT -6
Mr. Moo-lay in da howse !
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ericn
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Balance Engineer
Posts: 16,107
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Post by ericn on Feb 26, 2015 10:50:56 GMT -6
No smoke is always a good thing. Unless your building a smoke machine! |
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Feb 26, 2015 20:23:32 GMT -6
8DUhm, yeah. Smoke is baaad with the things we generally build...
From smoke to a burnt or spoiled PCB it's sometimes just a few seconds....
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ericn
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Balance Engineer
Posts: 16,107
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Post by ericn on Feb 26, 2015 20:49:41 GMT -6
8DUhm, yeah. Smoke is baaad with the things we generally build... From smoke to a burnt or spoiled PCB it's sometimes just a few seconds.... The best Advice for any thing DIY is Plug it in to a an outlet strip with a 20amp breaker you can hit if it starts to smoke or smell like smoke from. 20 feet away , why ? Well look at this face ! |
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Post by Deleted on Feb 26, 2015 21:10:02 GMT -6
Yes, ericn, that's a good advice for safety. An exploding electrolyte cap is not a funny thing. I have seen this once, a seemingly loaded (D'oh!) one, that had been connected with wrong polarity, if i remember it correctly. Messy thing. Otherwise...if you checked such things as these polarities intensively and twice, you can smell and spot things like e.g. burning resistors faster, if you have a closer position. It's often a very subtle smell in the beginning which should make you instantly disconnect from power... I have a pair of security goggles. I strongly advise to use them on *every* of these occasions! I had many D'oh moments, where hot parts, metal or glass shards and even hot liquid metal flew in face direction while doing all kind of DIY. You may be lucky for a couple of times, but it's about the moments, where you don't... |
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ericn
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Balance Engineer
Posts: 16,107
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Post by ericn on Feb 26, 2015 21:20:37 GMT -6
Yes, ericn, that's a good advice for safety. An exploding electrolyte cap is not a funny thing. I have seen this once, a seemingly loaded (D'oh!) one, that had been connected with wrong polarity, if i remember it correctly. Messy thing. Otherwise...if you checked such things as these polarities intensively and twice, you can smell and spot things like e.g. burning resistors faster, if you have a closer position. It's often a very subtle smell in the beginning which should make you instantly disconnect from power... I have a pair of security goggles. I strongly advise to use them on *every* of these occasions! I had many D'oh moments, where hot parts, metal or glass shards and even hot liquid metal flew in face direction while doing all kind of DIY. You may be lucky for a couple of times, but it's about the moments, where you don't... I treat every piece that's "new to me" as if it might explode, But then I grew up with a rack full of flame- linear amps , they didn't sound good till they got hot, but if they got too hot it was man the for extinguisher ! I think I kept the local fire fighting equipment guy in buisness with those! |
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Post by jayson on Feb 27, 2015 11:13:30 GMT -6
We interrupt this thread to return to a previous digression - I was in Harbor Freight the other day and came across that vice.Inspired by this thread I went ahead and scored one. For $17 why not? I gotta say it ain't a bad little vice compared to the Panavise 396 I've got on my workbench now. My only complaint is that the suction cup base is pretty much useless, I really couldn't get it to stick to anything - even a glass table top. I wouldn't say it disqualifies it though; It's a hefty enough steel base that you could just drill some holes through it and bolt it down easily enough. Have to get off my duff and do a build so I can do a direct comparison. We now return you to the previous thread, all ready in progress. |
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Post by mulmany on Mar 14, 2015 20:28:17 GMT -6
Can any one that has a working unit provide ref. voltages for trouble shooting. I now cant get my El panel to light. Everything works but the gain reduction!
Thanks
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Post by tonycamphd on Mar 14, 2015 23:35:18 GMT -6
Can any one that has a working unit provide ref. voltages for trouble shooting. I now cant get my El panel to light. Everything works but the gain reduction! Thanks |
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Post by horvitz on Mar 17, 2015 4:59:04 GMT -6
Can any one that has a working unit provide ref. voltages for trouble shooting. I now cant get my El panel to light. Everything works but the gain reduction! Thanks I've got a pair of these. Haven't thought about the inside in a couple of years but could give a poke around. What do you need? |
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Post by mulmany on Mar 17, 2015 15:17:34 GMT -6
Can any one that has a working unit provide ref. voltages for trouble shooting. I now cant get my El panel to light. Everything works but the gain reduction! Thanks I've got a pair of these. Haven't thought about the inside in a couple of years but could give a poke around. What do you need? That's kind of you... looking for voltages surrounding the T4 circuit and the voltage boosting transformer. Looking for voltages on the daughter board pins aswell. Thanks a lot Brian! |
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Post by horvitz on Mar 18, 2015 16:08:07 GMT -6
Sorry to take a little while here, time has been tight. I had a look at the two daughterboards first. With no signal present I see the following:
Left board:
In: -14.6V
Out: 5.2V
FB: 0V
Right board:
In+: 0V
In-: 6.7V
Out: 6.8V
FB: 6.1V
+v and -v are as expected on both.
When applying a signal and setting for 10dB of GR, the reading all stay the same except for the In+ on the right board which hops up to 6.5V.
Hope this is a helpful start.
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Post by mulmany on Mar 18, 2015 21:27:55 GMT -6
Thanks Brian! horvitz Thats a good start. I find it funny that no one ever brought up what their readings were on the module. Maybe I am just use to seeing voltage readings from tube amp schematics. |
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Post by keymod on Apr 11, 2015 7:14:22 GMT -6
I decided to sell my two complete kits. Not afraid of the build, just realized that I don't really need these, now that I have five of Jeff's new compressors, six from Sound Skulptor and several rack-mount units, including an Alan Smart C2. I'll put the ad in classifieds here.
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Post by mulmany on Apr 19, 2015 19:58:15 GMT -6
Well I finally got my El panel firing.
Question for you guys: The output gain control should not effect the signal being sent to the EL panel, right?
Looking at the schematic I say no, but I am not amazing at reading them.
Right now both the Comp and output pots will control the amount of light output from the panel. Turn the output down and the panel is off regardless of the comp position.
Any thoughts? Going to post at groupdiy as well, but did not get a response last time.
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Post by mulmany on Jul 14, 2015 22:32:07 GMT -6
Well, I finally revisited this.
I was hoping that some time would give me an aha! moment, but it didn't. I think I need someone else to take a look at it. Anyone up for the challenge?
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Post by mulmany on Nov 27, 2015 8:27:06 GMT -6
While cleaning my work area last night, I finally sat down and really tore into the La3a. I am happy to say that my Laz La3a is finally functional, except for the broken meter! Who needs metering anyway?
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