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Post by jcoutu1 on May 13, 2023 16:29:52 GMT -6
I’ve got a passive monitor controller and the output attenuator has kind of bit the biscuit. Stereo tracking isn’t good with it any more. Just kind of janky. Can you guys tell what this switch is or what I need to replace it with? Should I just buy a new decent unit instead or try to fix this thing?
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Post by craigmorris74 on May 14, 2023 8:31:50 GMT -6
That’s a rotary switch with SMD resistors. Is that the only part that attenuates the signal in your setup?
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Post by svart on May 14, 2023 13:34:16 GMT -6
Yep, SMD resistors. That's the voltage divider for the attenuation.
Probably need deoxit in the switch.
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Post by jcoutu1 on May 15, 2023 7:55:40 GMT -6
That’s a rotary switch with SMD resistors. Is that the only part that attenuates the signal in your setup? This is what I’ve been using between the dac and monitors. I can select between 3 sets of monitors and 3 inputs. I was wondering if you guy could identify the actual part from the photo, but maybe not enough detail.
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Post by craigmorris74 on May 15, 2023 8:28:58 GMT -6
That’s a rotary switch with SMD resistors. Is that the only part that attenuates the signal in your setup? This is what I’ve been using between the dac and monitors. I can select between 3 sets of monitors and 3 inputs. I was wondering if you guy could identify the actual part from the photo, but maybe not enough detail. Right, but on you passive controller, there is nothing else doing attenuation besides that rotary? If not, I'd do as Svart suggested and try to clean it, as there is probably a dirty contact. That type of switch with the resistors isn't something that you typically buy from a parts catalog, but something that someone builds from parts. If you want to replace it, you need to know how many steps you need, and its impedance. A good one is going to be expensive, so definitely try to clean that one first.
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Post by svart on May 15, 2023 10:32:28 GMT -6
That’s a rotary switch with SMD resistors. Is that the only part that attenuates the signal in your setup? This is what I’ve been using between the dac and monitors. I can select between 3 sets of monitors and 3 inputs. I was wondering if you guy could identify the actual part from the photo, but maybe not enough detail. It's going to be a custom part from whomever made the unit.
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Post by EmRR on May 15, 2023 12:24:38 GMT -6
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Post by jcoutu1 on May 15, 2023 18:33:25 GMT -6
That’s a chunk of dough! I guess I’ll start with deoxit like svart suggested and go from there. Thanks all!
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Post by EmRR on May 15, 2023 19:59:38 GMT -6
That there’s a buildout resistor off the bottom connected to a wire with no shrink around the joint doesn’t fill me with confidence about various connections.
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Post by jcoutu1 on May 16, 2023 7:30:44 GMT -6
That there’s a buildout resistor off the bottom connected to a wire with no shrink around the joint doesn’t fill me with confidence about various connections. The guy that built it took a bunch of preorders for stuff from people, took the money and ran, so I don’t have a ton of confidence either. Served me well for 7 or 8 years though, then started getting flaky.
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Post by svart on May 16, 2023 9:00:25 GMT -6
The Elma has flats on either side of the wafer and the resistors are on the inboard side, with a radial placement, and an open end for stacking. The one in the pic has round wafers, resistors on the outboard side with a perimeter placement and a closed end. Could be an earlier version I suppose, but it doesn't look as nice as Elma stuff I've seen. I'm betting chinese OEM stuff based on the red paint used as threadlocker and the brass back plate. I have some switches I got from china that look very similar. A side view of the assembly could tell us more. If they are the chinese switches, similar to what I've used, the do tend to tarnish and need DeOxit occasionally.
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Post by audiospecific on Dec 17, 2023 15:50:25 GMT -6
It would explain why it failed. The Behringer of rotary switches. I like building the old school style way with dale mil spec resistors on a Grayhill rotary switch.
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