Will putting more absorption...

I think it depends on the absorption.  For example, a typical 2 or 4 inch 703 panel flat to the wall is not going to reach very far into bass trapping frequencies.

But if you add some actual "bass traps" that reach down low, specifically, sure yeah I bet that would help.

I don't know a lot but I know absorption is not created equally.

The thicker it is, and the farther from the boundary it is, the more bass it will trap.

There are also specific types of "bass traps" that you can build or buy.

So, the answer is yes , if it is of the right depth and in the right placement and depending on your room's characteristics.

I am just finishing off retuning my room and now adding some final membrane low bass absorbers. The two lines green vs red indicating the starting point and where I finished , you can see the red outperforms the green in every graph, meaning absorption works.


Bass adds a lot of energy and pressure to the room and depending on the above some notes will stay louder in the room longer than you want.

Want we theoretically want is an overall reverb time of rt60, meaning the time it takes all freq to fall 60 db or if you get your reverb time down under 300 ms or lower, your room will likely soon pretty clear.


Here are 3 graphs:

the first showing frequency response smoothed, more uniform is better, but you will note the big difference is below around 100 cycles.

Second graph is showing the rt60 times in ms by 1/3rd octaves, most are pretty good but the lowest notes  not so good

last graph is called clarity but it is like a measure or direct to indirect sound and you want a line that climbs higher left to right,

so this shows which area of frequencies are clearest due to lower indirect sound relative to your direct.

all measurements are from my listening position.

I am building my final traps to address my null around 100 and the room node around 50, vertical bars on bottom of graph indicate room modes.

That's exactly the positioning that was most effective in my tiny studio - 4' by 2' by 4" absorbers mounted vertically across the front vertical corners gave the biggest individual improvement in low-end 'overhang', followed by the same in the rear vertical corners, and then a 4' by 4' ceiling cloud cleaned up the stereo imaging considerably.

Smaller improvements with further vertical absorbers mid front and back, and of course at the side reflection points, although the latter can generally be thinner.

Bass, especially really low bass, involves long wavelengths - in very small rooms, treatment is very difficult. In general, treating corners works best because it knocks down the axial modes that carry most of the energy in that frequency range - broadening them out by damping them smooths the bass response - treating tri-corners where 3 surfaces meet is most effective, followed by corners between 2 surfaces. Fibreglass or similar works nicely for this because it is relatively broadband (and its tendency to over absorb high frequencies can be addressed with facings), but getting enough depth to get low enough in frequency without giving up too much space can be a challenge in small rooms. Resonant approaches like membranes and Helmholz absorbers are harder to design and work with - unless you have money and patience to spare these are probably better purchased than done DIY (unless you can find good plans for a device that fits your requirements pretty precisely).

Also, oddly shaped rooms with lots of corners and alcoves can produce some truly strange effects - if your room is not roughly a parallelogram, getting some proper analysis done to see what you are dealing with would be a good first step.

My $0.02 (Canadian),
John

I usually mix with the control room door open.  And I have 4 2x4 and 4 2x2 Real Traps.  And could probably add more. 

mrholmes off center here but I love your studio mojo, those photos and that "up to 11" engraving, really nice!!

Depends on what you mean by "bass", and by how deep your absorbers are, but broadly speaking, yes-ish.

A super simple hack I added to my DIY panels to get them off the wall was to buy a bunch of those cheap 3” screw in door stops and screw them into my frames.  That way when i hung them, they were all a uniform distance off the wall.  

yes they are open back except for the small, rectangular wood frame that gives the 703 some support. 

I screwed the doorstops into the frame.

Occasionally my head is used for something other than a hat rack.  

Like everyone has said, I don't think there could ever be too much bass trapping. In my studio, on the front wall, I have (2) 3"x24"x8' panels that are off the wall by 3" and separated by 3" as well. Those are in the corners; diagonal and go from the floor to the ceiling. I also have many other traps including 6" panels that cover the wall/ceiling joint. All of these help tighten the bass quite a bit. If I had a giant room, I'd do a lot more to that front wall. In addition, I have a cloud and at least 50% of the wall area has 3" of OC703. The floors are laminate. No carpeting. The room sounds nice acoustically but controls reflections and absorbs some of the bass. I made all the traps myself, roughly based on a GIK panel I had.

I know most everyone knows this here, but room treatment is even more important than the monitor choice.

Now, no reason to start dissing NS10s again...