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Post by Ned Ward on Dec 21, 2017 11:01:43 GMT -6
Troubleshooting -
Try running a known good cable from guitar to first pedal under your pedalboard so that it goes in the same place as your soldered cables.
If there's no hum, then you may need to revisit your soldering.
Process of elimination, but given you have good power supplies and I have pedals right next to my Pedal Power 2 with out issue, I think it may be a solder joint issue or a section of bad cable, but eliminate things to see what's the culprit.
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Post by Ned Ward on Dec 9, 2017 15:18:57 GMT -6
used analog tape reels to drape the cable over - mount several on a wall and visually you've got a cool thing going. Plus you can say it gives your recordings an analog vibe...
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Post by Ned Ward on Dec 6, 2017 18:29:12 GMT -6
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Post by Ned Ward on Dec 6, 2017 18:25:22 GMT -6
What power supply are you using? Looks like you have two different ones fed from two IEC outlets? Different power supplies do make a difference. I have the Voodoo Labs Pedal Power 2 on a board in close proximity to all my pedals, and there's no hum using George L's cable for the connections. Having the 3 bare connectors on the back side of the pedalboard is concerning - if it's plugged in and something conductive crosses those connectors... This appears to be a better solution where there's no exposed contacts and you can use any extension cord, not just an IEC cord: pedalboardshop.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/4.jpg
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Post by Ned Ward on Nov 21, 2017 13:06:56 GMT -6
I'm a big fan of the Xotic EP Boost, and use that in front of an original Ibanez AD9 analog delay as a lead sound. Even with the EP Boost fully counter clockwise, it adds a nice midrange boost.
Univibe - my local guitar shop has used both the MXR Univibe and the Voodoo Lab Micro Vibe - worth trying.
Fuzz - I have a Keeley Fuzzhead on my pedalboard and like it, but I don't know how it compares to fuzz faces, etc. It does play well with other pedals and is switchable between silicon and germanium transistors. I also have a Guyatone TZ2 Fuzz, which is a clone of the Univox Super Fuzz I stupidly sold as a kid. That is an awesome fuzz, but doesn't play well with other pedals and I need to rehouse it as the rubber ring holding the bottom plate on has disintegrated.
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Post by Ned Ward on Nov 18, 2017 14:44:23 GMT -6
Yep - I was being very careful with a small flat-bladed screwdriver to gently open it up just a bit to accept both slivers of guitar pick and made sure the bass was flat on a table while doing this (vs. in my lap, on a couch, etc).
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Post by Ned Ward on Nov 17, 2017 13:29:28 GMT -6
This may be common knowledge for folks here, but thought I'd share anyway.
Many of us have had this issue where a split shaft volume pot gets pinched in, either by trying to screw in a solid shaft pot or otherwise. If you squeeze too hard, you can even shear off part of the shaft. Knobs then don't stay on, or don't rotate correctly on the pot.
On my MIM Jazz Bass, I had lent it to a friend and noticed the bridge volume pot knob was rotating freely and fell off in my hand when I barely touched it, and sure enough, the shaft was bent inwards.
I remembered a video on stewmac.com, and took one of my worn out Dunlop Tortex .73mm (the yellow ones), cut it down with scissors, and then cut a second one. I carefully opened up the split shaft prongs with a flat-bladed screwdriver enough to slip both pieces of the pick in, and then pressed down the volume knob on the repaired shaft. Problem solved, and total cost was $0.
This can also help if you want to install solid shaft knobs with set screws on split shaft pots. Not usually a problem in audio gear, but on guitars and amps it can be.
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Post by Ned Ward on Nov 3, 2017 10:30:13 GMT -6
As others have said, if you've done a lot of woodworking, great then go for it. I've done minimal woodworking, but built a 3 bay x 3 RU monitor shelf for an IKEA desk. it's not pretty, but it gets my 27" monitor, laptop and near fields all on top as well as key gear I need to have at hand. But if I ever went to dual 27" monitors, I'd have to modify the top to be wider for the monitors. But for a home studio it works.
There are a lot of used desks out there on CL and other places, and that may get you close, but know that Omnirax and others are made from laminated MDF, which doesn't lend itself well to modifying.
I'd go on the cheap first and get a table with legs you can adjust. Figure out how tall it needs to be for you, how wide, where you want your monitor(s) to be (both width and height) and then you can build the real thing after living with it.
The 2 side racks are cosmetic and you'd save money buying these used on CL - I see isoracks, etc. pop up all the time.
And from Norm Abrams at the New Yankee Workshop, measure twice, cut once...
good luck!
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Post by Ned Ward on Oct 12, 2017 1:13:05 GMT -6
Glad you're liking it! I finally got to open up my Dr. Z Maz 18 at a show the other week after having it for 6 months and not being able to play at home beyond a whisper. For a guy who's go-to amp is either a Bandmaster, Tremolux or a Princeton Reverb, this was a nice change. Used an Archer Majestic pedal to drive it a little, and was super happy, as was the rest of the band. Glad you're enjoying the AC!
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Post by Ned Ward on Oct 1, 2017 16:20:55 GMT -6
Bruno Mars - Marry You, Just the Way you Are Katy Perry - Roar, Firework Pharrell williams - Happy Daft Punk - Get Lucky PSY - Gangnam Style - (works here in LA, results may vary) Sheppard - Geronimo Taylor Swift - Love story, Shake It Off Hot Chelle Rae - Tonight Tonight Meghan Trainor - All About that Bass
Older school MC Hammer - can't touch this Smashmouth - I'm a Believer, All Star Duran Duran - hungry like the wolf, Rio Nancy Sinatra - Boots were made for Walking Toni Basil - Mickey
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Post by Ned Ward on Aug 30, 2017 10:30:42 GMT -6
I don't know how this compares to the Suhr Reactive load, but it does have an impedance switch vs. having to buy multiples. And it's reactive load vs. resistive load. That way, you can use any amp to get the tone you want. www.tedweber.com/minimass
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Post by Ned Ward on Aug 9, 2017 18:43:22 GMT -6
The Fryette Power Station is doing 2 things - acting as a reactive load with limited tonal shaping, but also a 6L6 amp. Most of us don't need a 6L6 amp in the product we want for silent recording, and if I'm using one of my lower wattage amps (Princeton Reverb, Dr. Z Mini Z) a e906 on the cab to the PA works fine. If I need more stage volume or if the bar has crappy monitors then I'll bring a bigger amp. Feels like a sofa bed. Not a good sofa, not a good bed. Pick one thing and be really good at it.
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Post by Ned Ward on Aug 8, 2017 8:53:21 GMT -6
In my home studio, I don't have the space to build an iso cab; for now I'm using Eleven Rack to practice and record late, but would much rather use my Blackface Fenders or my Dr. Z Maz 17. I think I'll need to save up for the Two Notes Torpedo and just suck it up.
the other option would be the Suhr reactive load and then using IR's in Pro Tools (or even Two Notes program). Any one used the Suhr reactive load with success?
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Post by Ned Ward on Aug 2, 2017 15:09:39 GMT -6
I saw the Platform Desk on PT Expert and then reached out to Output to see if they could do cutouts on the top to have angled rack rails; they cannot, but since Output is in LA and this is made in Seattle? Looks like they're farming it out. Still, giving me at least dimensions. I have an IKEA desk with standard legs, but saw online today they have adjustable height legs, which would then let me build a sliding keyboard drawer underneath. Already built a 3x3RU monitor shelf to go on top of the desk. Will post pics of my setup when I get time to clear all the junk off the top of it (home studio/home office = lots of clutter).
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Post by Ned Ward on Aug 1, 2017 10:55:47 GMT -6
My fender princeton seems to always get set to Volume 4, bass 6 treble 6. But, I find I have a way of finding out where and amp should be set for its best tone... and do that. Which is basically without being facetious , I turn the bass and treble knobs through their full range and there is always a point where they sound good, vs lots of points where it makes it sound crap or has little effect what so ever. cheers Wiz It seems you have discovered the "magic Fender setting" . . . so since the cat's out of the bag. Fender amp with midrange control: everything on 7. Fender amp without mid control: everything on 6 Seriously. try it on ANY Fender amp and you'll hear the true tone of the amp, then adjust from there. Must try this on my Princeton Reverb, Tremolux, Bandmaster and Showman - thanks! Normally I leave tone controls at 5.
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Post by Ned Ward on Jul 28, 2017 15:22:31 GMT -6
Hey Martin, I think you missed my question What are your thoughts on putting my Princeton on an amp stand to record - do you think it's a worthwhile improvement? What is the difference using an amp stand? Thanks FWIW, I've used an Auralex GRAMMA to isolate my cabs from the floor for years and have found it to be a worthwhile purchase. As far as vs. putting your amp on a stand I cannot help since I don't use one in the studio. I also use the GRAMMA for my amps - keeps things from rattling around the room. I don't use stands, although 3 of my Fenders have tilt-back legs, but only use those live, not for recording.
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Post by Ned Ward on Jun 29, 2017 10:40:41 GMT -6
I downloaded the demo after reading about it on Pro Tools Expert and watching a video showing it at work. The demo does cut out audio every 30 seconds, but you can play around with it to see if it works for you. Will wait until there's a sale and then pull the trigger. I like that the interface now is cleaner and not trying to be skeuomorphic (resembling real knobs, etc.).
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Post by Ned Ward on May 25, 2017 13:49:11 GMT -6
I'm looking to replace my 1979 silverface twin reverb speakers. I'm thinking either a pair of cermaic weber california's, ceramic chicagos, or one of each....leaning towards the one of each. I don't use tons of pedals and enjoy sweet clean tone.an OCD/two tone boost maybe a fuzz from time to time and I'm all set... and the amps modded to be slightly hairy when the pushpulls activated on the master volume for the first channel. What are some of you favorite combos? I had a set of the Weber California's with aluminum dustcaps in my '65 Fender Bandmaster combo, and didn't like them - I found them harsh, and they didn't play well with overdrive (usually a Barber direct Drive or a Timmy). Sold the Webers, bought 2 Warehouse Speakers G12C/S, and have been happy ever since. I have their G12C's in a closed Bandmaster cab, but prefer the G12C/S in the open combo. Love the Fender cleans, and sounds great with pedals. The 2x12 Bandmaster cab with the Warehouse Speakers G12C's is what I'm using with my Showman amp, and it works well - great clean tone, warm. If budget isn't an issue, Kendrick Black Frames - I have their 10" in my Princeton Reverb and really like it. Hope this helps.
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Post by Ned Ward on May 20, 2017 14:34:02 GMT -6
I had a reissue Jensen C10Q in my '77 Princeton Reverb, and didn't like it. Switched to a Kendrick Black Frame and very happy. Worth a try.
I have the Weber Alnico 10A125's in my Tremolux cab and like them; they could also be an option.
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Post by Ned Ward on May 20, 2017 14:31:47 GMT -6
Wow - nice, and build quality is unmatched. Just got my 2nd Z - a used Maz Jr. and together with a Fender, it's a great combination of 6V6/6L6 and EL84...
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