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Post by Quint on Jan 21, 2019 17:24:32 GMT -6
If a stand is sufficiently heavy and rigid enough to not transmit vibrations, . Not to get too far off topic, but is that even possible? Not in my experience with mobile stands. even a concrete stand is going to transmit some vibrations. Though that is a separate discussion. I was just trying to say that "if" the chosen solution, whether it be a sufficiently dense stand or an isolation pad of sufficient decoupling capacity,is up to the task, then either "should" be sufficient in it's own right, yes? I was just questioning why you would theoretically need both? But the point you're making is also relevant. The question of whether any of these solutions is sufficient on their own is maybe a big "if". |
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ericn
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Post by ericn on Jan 21, 2019 18:10:05 GMT -6
If a stand is sufficiently heavy and rigid enough to not transmit vibrations, . Not to get too far off topic, but is that even possible? Not in my experience with mobile stands. even a concrete stand is going to transmit some vibrations. One of the things that has kept a number of great speaker designers out of the modern pro market has been the weight or mass of their cabinets that couples them to the stands for proper isolation. As far as vibrations everything is going to have it’s own resonance so your never going to remove them all and nobody tunes the loading of their stands to get them sub sonic. Any type of elestomer is going to have a very limited range of effectiveness and is probably redundant with the isolation of a decent mass loaded stand. |
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ericn
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Post by ericn on Jan 21, 2019 18:12:04 GMT -6
Like I said give Jeff Headback a shout, you will be surprised how inexpensive he is and how much you get for your money! |
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Post by drbill on Jan 21, 2019 18:57:27 GMT -6
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Post by nick8801 on Jan 21, 2019 21:25:27 GMT -6
nick8801 Thank you that is kind of you to offer. H 93 inches, W102 inches, L 232 inches Front: Well it looks like you've got the acoustic treatment down! Those are some really tough room dimensions though. Your room is essentially a tunnel. It falls wildly off of the bolt area which is what will determine a good accumulation of room modes. You've probably done all you can in the ways of treatment, but there are a few options. If monitoring is your issue, you could flip your whole setup to horizontally. That's probably a huge undertaking, and not one your willing to consider, but horizontal is almost always better than vertical when monitoring even with all of that treatment. If you do keep that setup, maybe pull the desk forward a bit and use floor stands for the monitors. That would at least eliminate any "console" bounce you might be getting from your desk. Also not sure what kind of speakers you're using, but you may want to consider something smaller with a sub you can punch in and out. That would take the problem low end frequencies out of the equation in that setup until you need to get them in with a sub. Anyway, just some observations that I learned from class. Here's a link to an acoustic calculator with your dimensions plugged in. It's super useful for anyone else interested here as well. Good luck! amcoustics.com/tools/amroc?l=19.3&w=8.5&h=7.75&ft=true&re=DIN%2018041%20-%20Music |
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Post by Quint on Jan 21, 2019 23:39:30 GMT -6
Like I said give Jeff Headback a shout, you will be surprised how inexpensive he is and how much you get for your money! Jeff is defintely involved in my current studio rework. |
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Post by kcatthedog on Jan 22, 2019 5:05:39 GMT -6
Thx Nick,
Yes I am aware that the room dimensions are fundamentally a problem.
I am getting some small Emotiva or goldenear tech monitors, 6 inch woofer as I find larger monitors are wasted in the room. I have never used a sub.
By flipping horizontal do you mean the monitors or the room, or face the long wall? I had done that in the past and it opens up recording space on either end but you lose the middle area.
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Post by nick8801 on Jan 22, 2019 6:36:01 GMT -6
Thx Nick, Yes I am aware that the room dimensions are fundamentally a problem. I am getting some small Emotiva or goldenear tech monitors, 6 inch woofer as I find larger monitors are wasted in the room. I have never used a sub. By flipping horizontal do you mean the monitors or the room, or face the long wall? I had done that in the past and it opens up recording space on either end but you lose the middle area. Yes I was referring to setting up along the long wall. I have similar issues to you in my room. Unfortunately my room is too narrow to make it work, but I did flip my drums that way when I need to record them. Makes a huge difference in the clarity and punch. You should try at least putting your monitors up that way and take some measurements. I think it would make more of a difference than monitor stands in my opinion. I’m sure you’ll do what works best for you in the end. Not trying to come off like a know it all or anything, just trying to help. Let us know how it works out! |
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Post by kcatthedog on Jan 22, 2019 6:50:33 GMT -6
All good, my monitors are on separate weighted stands and iso stands. I just have an mdf board spanning the two for my video monitors so it looks like a console bridge but isn’t!  |
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Post by Omicron9 on Feb 1, 2019 9:09:56 GMT -6
I bought cinder blocks and "built" mine. Height is maybe 4'. I lay two cinder blocks flat, side-by-side. Then stack the next two on top of those at a right angle, lather/rinse/repeat until desired height is achieved. I then went to a fabric store and purchased several yards of a very nice black fabric, and draped that over the block stands (without the monitors). They look like black draped columns. Looks very tasteful and elegant. No resonances that I can discern. Inexpensive, effective, and aesthetically appealing.
-09
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Post by javamad on Feb 3, 2019 7:26:18 GMT -6
I bought cinder blocks and "built" mine. Height is maybe 4'. I lay two cinder blocks flat, side-by-side. Then stack the next two on top of those at a right angle, lather/rinse/repeat until desired height is achieved. I then went to a fabric store and purchased several yards of a very nice black fabric, and draped that over the block stands (without the monitors). They look like black draped columns. Looks very tasteful and elegant. No resonances that I can discern. Inexpensive, effective, and aesthetically appealing. -09 +1 on the cinderblock method. I had that in a previous room. No resonances. I put a simple Auralex foam that came with my monitors directly on the bricks just to stop the bricks scratching the monitor cabinets for resale value ... no fancy cloth :-) |
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Post by Omicron9 on Feb 5, 2019 9:13:55 GMT -6
I bought cinder blocks and "built" mine. Height is maybe 4'. I lay two cinder blocks flat, side-by-side. Then stack the next two on top of those at a right angle, lather/rinse/repeat until desired height is achieved. I then went to a fabric store and purchased several yards of a very nice black fabric, and draped that over the block stands (without the monitors). They look like black draped columns. Looks very tasteful and elegant. No resonances that I can discern. Inexpensive, effective, and aesthetically appealing. -09 +1 on the cinderblock method. I had that in a previous room. No resonances. I put a simple Auralex foam that came with my monitors directly on the bricks just to stop the bricks scratching the monitor cabinets for resale value ... no fancy cloth :-) Ah yes, one important point I neglected to mention: I have dishtowels on top, under the black fabric, to protect from scratching the cabinets. Carry on. -09 |
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ericn
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Post by ericn on Feb 5, 2019 10:07:40 GMT -6
One thing to consider with something like stacked cinderblocks or similar type of stands is you are extending the bafffle of the speaker in one plane and may either love or hate the acoustic effect vs a more acoustically invisible stands last like Sound Anchors!
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Post by Omicron9 on Feb 5, 2019 11:26:40 GMT -6
One thing to consider with something like stacked cinderblocks or similar type of stands is you are extending the bafffle of the speaker in one plane and may either love or hate the acoustic effect vs a more acoustically invisible stands last like Sound Anchors! Not in my case. The orientation of the blocks are parallel with the walls; monitors sit on top at a 45-degree angle. -09 |
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Post by indiehouse on Apr 1, 2022 6:57:44 GMT -6
Bumping this thread to ask: do I need sorbothane hemispheres with my Sound Anchors? I’ve got monitors that weigh 57lbs each. Do I need to decouple these from the sound anchors? The blue dots that they come with aren’t tall enough because these monitors have screws that protrude from the bottom plate, so the speakers actually sit on the screws.
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ericn
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Post by ericn on Apr 1, 2022 10:44:40 GMT -6
Bumping this thread to ask: do I need sorbothane hemispheres with my Sound Anchors? I’ve got monitors that weigh 57lbs each. Do I need to decouple these from the sound anchors? The blue dots that they come with aren’t tall enough because these monitors have screws that protrude from the bottom plate, so the speakers actually sit on the screws. I’m going to venture to the don’t worry about camp because your monitors have spikes designed to couple the mass loading through 4 very directed points. Using a decoupling device just smacks of contradictory theory/ Fashion. |
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Post by indiehouse on Apr 1, 2022 12:18:04 GMT -6
Bumping this thread to ask: do I need sorbothane hemispheres with my Sound Anchors? I’ve got monitors that weigh 57lbs each. Do I need to decouple these from the sound anchors? The blue dots that they come with aren’t tall enough because these monitors have screws that protrude from the bottom plate, so the speakers actually sit on the screws. I’m going to venture to the don’t worry about camp because your monitors have spikes designed to couple the mass loading through 4 very directed points. Using a decoupling device just smacks of contradictory theory/ Fashion. Let me ask this then, would sorbothane be appropriate for DIY stands? I’ve got a pair I made from pvc sand filled on spikes. Not as heavy as the sound anchors. |
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ericn
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Post by ericn on Apr 1, 2022 13:46:01 GMT -6
I’m going to venture to the don’t worry about camp because your monitors have spikes designed to couple the mass loading through 4 very directed points. Using a decoupling device just smacks of contradictory theory/ Fashion. Let me ask this then, would sorbothane be appropriate for DIY stands? I’ve got a pair I made from pvc sand filled on spikes. Not as heavy as the sound anchors. Again it comes down to contradicting theories, it might work, it might work within a certain bandwidth, but the manufacturer designed the cabinets entire mass to be loaded through those tiny points ( ok it might be more of a cop out to audio fashion ) l. Now the real question should be do I want to remove the spikes and see if with these speakers and stands if isolation or mass coupling is better. |
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