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Post by mikec on Jan 5, 2018 12:01:11 GMT -6
Now that I've gotten out of the corporate rat race and taken an early retirement so I am still young enough to do the things I want to do, I want to try some DYI projects, like maybe a CAPI VP28 or a CAPI compressor, or other based on feedback from the group. It doesn't have to be a 500 series, these are just a suggestion. I am not totally new to electronics having taken advanced classes in school and also working for a year in an electronics shop rebuilding and rewiring electric motors from 1/2 hp small motors up to the 1000 hp motors that you could crawl through. My questions for the group, what would be a good project as a first DYI kit and what gear/tools would you recommend that I buy to be most successful.
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Post by winetree on Jan 5, 2018 12:59:23 GMT -6
D. I. Y. Do it yourself.
Pick a project that you need the most. A good build guild and a kit that includes everything. That's the best way to start and reward yourself.
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Post by wiz on Jan 5, 2018 15:25:32 GMT -6
Now that I've gotten out of the corporate rat race and taken an early retirement so I am still young enough to do the things I want to do, I want to try some DYI projects, like maybe a CAPI VP28 or a CAPI compressor, or other based on feedback from the group. It doesn't have to be a 500 series, these are just a suggestion. I am not totally new to electronics having taken advanced classes in school and also working for a year in an electronics shop rebuilding and rewiring electric motors from 1/2 hp small motors up to the 1000 hp motors that you could crawl through. My questions for the group, what would be a good project as a first DYI kit and what gear/tools would you recommend that I buy to be most successful. VP28 is a real good choice Cheers Wiz
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Post by gabygab2 on Jan 5, 2018 16:28:57 GMT -6
The VP28 and VP312 were my first builds and they were lots of fun. The gar1731 and gar2520 op-amps are very small but if I can do it you can too! Just make sure you have a good soldering tip. You can also purchase fully assembled op-amps. There are so many good kits out there. I'd suggest evaluating what you are lacking in your studio and go from there. The guys over at diyrecordingequipment have assembled a pretty cool database of diy kits. wiki.diyrecordingequipment.com/Hope this helps. Have fun!
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Post by kcatthedog on Jan 5, 2018 17:42:48 GMT -6
Microphone parts kits are a good build, very documented and you end up with a very good low cost mike ?
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ericn
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Balance Engineer
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Post by ericn on Jan 5, 2018 18:07:36 GMT -6
If you have a 500 rack can't beat CAPI pres! CAPI racks are great for honing your solder skills!
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Post by Guitar on Jan 6, 2018 15:35:08 GMT -6
Yeah, guess an API mic circuit or something like a direct box, or passive summing mixer, with not too many parts, is a good start.
Buy a good soldering iron!
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Post by mdmitch2 on Jan 6, 2018 18:03:38 GMT -6
CAPI 312 is the easiest of the CAPI kits, having the fewest components, but the VP25/26 only have a few more parts. Beyond those, the VP28 has a LOT more parts, and takes much longer to build, but there's nothing really difficult about it if you follow the instructions and stay organized. Same goes for the EQ's and compressors, but even more parts than the VP28. And anytime you're dealing with a compressor, you're going to have to calibrate it, which can be intimidating at first, so read through the instructions of any kit you decide on to make sure you're comfortable tackling it.
As for tools, get a decent variable temperature soldering iron like the Hakko FX888. I use a 1.6mm chisel tip for just about everything including opamps.... it's just big enough to heat well, and just small enough for tiny pads. For solder, I like the finer stuff like Kester 63/37 0.020". It melts easier than the thicker stuff resulting in better joints in my experience.
As for tools, you'll need some small hex keys to attach the knobs, but Jeff sells those $0.50/each, and a lead former for bending resistor legs, also for sale on CAPI's site. And I like to use a tiny flat blade screwdriver for bending leads on capacitors. Also get some of the $5 hakko side cutters, and some wire strippers that'll do ~20-30 gauge wire, like the Klein 11057. And if you're building opamps, definitely get a 10x magnifying glass. Also, small needle nose pliers are good for bending LED legs and for a zillion other things; I use the Hakko PN-2007. Another tool that I find indispensable is a set of curved tweezers like the Hakko CHP 7-SA. They're great for picking up screws, placing small wires where they need to be, scraping off solder splatter, placing nuts/washers, etc.
Apparently I need to get a Hakko sponsorship.
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Post by mikec on Jan 6, 2018 22:22:59 GMT -6
CAPI 312 is the easiest of the CAPI kits, having the fewest components, but the VP25/26 only have a few more parts. Beyond those, the VP28 has a LOT more parts, and takes much longer to build, but there's nothing really difficult about it if you follow the instructions and stay organized. Same goes for the EQ's and compressors, but even more parts than the VP28. And anytime you're dealing with a compressor, you're going to have to calibrate it, which can be intimidating at first, so read through the instructions of any kit you decide on to make sure you're comfortable tackling it. As for tools, get a decent variable temperature soldering iron like the Hakko FX888. I use a 1.6mm chisel tip for just about everything including opamps.... it's just big enough to heat well, and just small enough for tiny pads. For solder, I like the finer stuff like Kester 63/37 0.020". It melts easier than the thicker stuff resulting in better joints in my experience. As for tools, you'll need some small hex keys to attach the knobs, but Jeff sells those $0.50/each, and a lead former for bending resistor legs, also for sale on CAPI's site. And I like to use a tiny flat blade screwdriver for bending leads on capacitors. Also get some of the $5 hakko side cutters, and some wire strippers that'll do ~20-30 gauge wire, like the Klein 11057. And if you're building opamps, definitely get a 10x magnifying glass. Also, small needle nose pliers are good for bending LED legs and for a zillion other things; I use the Hakko PN-2007. Another tool that I find indispensable is a set of curved tweezers like the Hakko CHP 7-SA. They're great for picking up screws, placing small wires where they need to be, scraping off solder splatter, placing nuts/washers, etc. Apparently I need to get a Hakko sponsorship. Thank you for such a detailed roadmap. Just what I was looking for.
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ericn
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Balance Engineer
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Post by ericn on Jan 7, 2018 12:11:38 GMT -6
I have found that simple dollar store 2x or 3x reading glasses makes all the difference in the world!
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Post by mikec on Jan 7, 2018 12:21:42 GMT -6
I have found that simple dollar store 2x or 3x reading glasses makes all the difference in the world! My wife has plenty of those laying around.
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Post by johneppstein on Jan 7, 2018 12:48:21 GMT -6
I have found that simple dollar store 2x or 3x reading glasses makes all the difference in the world! Of course it depends on your eyes - I use the 1.5s all the time.
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Post by plinker on Jan 9, 2018 15:46:45 GMT -6
Microphone parts kits are a good build, very documented and you end up with a very good low cost mike ? I'll second this. I did the MXL 990 mod and used a Heiserman HK-47 capsule, and it sounds mah-ve-lus! I painted it the color I wanted, and bought their replacement headbasket -- looks very cool too. I'm trying to decide what capsule to use next...
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Post by jeromemason on Jan 9, 2018 16:37:40 GMT -6
The DIYRE EQ is a great first build for someone, and I might add that they sound really fantastic. I mix for a living and these are hardwired into my mixbuss, so for me to trust them there is really saying something. They sound great on everything, but, you definitely want to go with the "Vintage" build that includes a transformer and DOA, they truly do sound like the non-tube Pultecs which IMO were fantastic. These EQ's sound their best with the "Q" set to very broad, you'll find that if you set them that way it's extremely similar to how a car stereo eq works, and for me that's exactly what I wanted on my mixbuss. How many times do you listen to your mix in the car and feel like it's so close and then you use the eq in the car and go "that's it, all I need is to boost the ________ and I'm there." That's really what running these with a very broad Q does.
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Post by jcoutu1 on Jan 9, 2018 16:56:27 GMT -6
The DIYRE EQ is a great first build for someone, and I might add that they sound really fantastic. I mix for a living and these are hardwired into my mixbuss, so for me to trust them there is really saying something. They sound great on everything, but, you definitely want to go with the "Vintage" build that includes a transformer and DOA, they truly do sound like the non-tube Pultecs which IMO were fantastic. These EQ's sound their best with the "Q" set to very broad, you'll find that if you set them that way it's extremely similar to how a car stereo eq works, and for me that's exactly what I wanted on my mixbuss. How many times do you listen to your mix in the car and feel like it's so close and then you use the eq in the car and go "that's it, all I need is to boost the ________ and I'm there." That's really what running these with a very broad Q does. Uhhh...mine don't have Q control.
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Post by jeromemason on Jan 9, 2018 20:50:57 GMT -6
Uhhh...mine don't have Q control. Be right cheer........ Mine is set to maybe 2:30..... But, I think I'm going to take it all the way up. The more you broaden that Q the sweeter and more musical the EQ sounds. I just got done mixing a record that is going to radio in like 4 months and when the producer sent me the masters I could hear a little bit of edginess that I know these probably put in there. I'll probably just open them up all the way to give that really massive broad boost/cut, I know it takes much more kindly to the airwaves with that nice musical broad stroke than targeting a tighter frequency window. I have another LP coming up so I'll do this maybe even tomorrow, I'll let you know how it goes.
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Post by jcoutu1 on Jan 10, 2018 1:05:09 GMT -6
Uhhh...mine don't have Q control. Be right cheer........ Mine is set to maybe 2:30..... But, I think I'm going to take it all the way up. The more you broaden that Q the sweeter and more musical the EQ sounds. I just got done mixing a record that is going to radio in like 4 months and when the producer sent me the masters I could hear a little bit of edginess that I know these probably put in there. I'll probably just open them up all the way to give that really massive broad boost/cut, I know it takes much more kindly to the airwaves with that nice musical broad stroke than targeting a tighter frequency window. I have another LP coming up so I'll do this maybe even tomorrow, I'll let you know how it goes. Hot damn. I had no idea. Just popped mine out of the rack and sure enough, set in the middle. Just cranked them to broad. Hopefully this Q works better than the KT Pultec. I'm excited to check them out again.
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ericn
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Post by ericn on Jan 10, 2018 9:02:43 GMT -6
Uhhh...mine don't have Q control. Be right cheer........ Mine is set to maybe 2:30..... But, I think I'm going to take it all the way up. The more you broaden that Q the sweeter and more musical the EQ sounds. I just got done mixing a record that is going to radio in like 4 months and when the producer sent me the masters I could hear a little bit of edginess that I know these probably put in there. I'll probably just open them up all the way to give that really massive broad boost/cut, I know it takes much more kindly to the airwaves with that nice musical broad stroke than targeting a tighter frequency window. I have another LP coming up so I'll do this maybe even tomorrow, I'll let you know how it goes. Damn it My friend now you have me completely rethinking my plans for this years gear budget!😎
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Post by mikec on Jan 10, 2018 9:57:37 GMT -6
I think this DIYRE EQ might be my first dyi project. My Hakko FX888 and accessories arrive Friday.
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Post by Guitar on Jan 10, 2018 10:17:35 GMT -6
do your itself, haha. But of course DIY RE is the right way around.
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Post by jeromemason on Jan 10, 2018 11:11:48 GMT -6
Damn it My friend now you have me completely rethinking my plans for this years gear budget!😎 Actually my plans just as soon as I get some spare cash; I'm going to go on and build and exact replica pair and then build the M/S Matrix on dandeurloo's site so I can do the sides and mid separately. I really need to get that done ASAP and is something I should had put some money into last month but I bought a pair of the Focal Shape's, so I kind of maxed my quarterly budget already, but it was damn well worth it, I love these monitors. But, yeah, the M/S setup with these EQ's is coming soon. Will run me about $1,600 if my numbers are right.
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ericn
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Post by ericn on Jan 10, 2018 11:50:02 GMT -6
Damn it My friend now you have me completely rethinking my plans for this years gear budget!😎 Actually my plans just as soon as I get some spare cash; I'm going to go on and build and exact replica pair and then build the M/S Matrix on dandeurloo's site so I can do the sides and mid separately. I really need to get that done ASAP and is something I should had put some money into last month but I bought a pair of the Focal Shape's, so I kind of maxed my quarterly budget already, but it was damn well worth it, I love these monitors. But, yeah, the M/S setup with these EQ's is coming soon. Will run me about $1,600 if my numbers are right. I do want to hear the Focals, but I need more speakers like I need more surgery maybe less, but still after hearing those KRK 3 ways in your room and knowing your taste I need to spend some time with a pair. If Brian and I ever get these Volt / Transducer Labs 2 & 3 way designs to the point where we are both happy I'm going to bring a pair to Nashville! Our problem is we can't decide which tweet is the best compromise & keep finding we prefer Biamping to the various passive crossovers we build and keep finding we like big old Amps like JW modded 555's!
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