|
Post by Guitar on Nov 3, 2017 18:11:15 GMT -6
I'm presuming you're looking for "free" or next to free.... that said, as far a piano's go, one question will weed out the need to go out and sift through most of the junk - as them for the name and number of their piano tech so you can speak with him. You might miss a few bargains, but you'll weed out 9 out of 10 pieces of junk that haven't been taken care of. As for "what".... The dream setup would be : Yamaha C7 Hammond B3 w/ 122 Leslie Wurlitzer EPno Rhodes EPho Upright Piano But you're not getting any of those for free.... :-) Man that is a dream team tasty sort of list you got there... ahhhhh.... I want to know what is the synthesizer list!
|
|
|
Post by keymod on Nov 4, 2017 4:25:22 GMT -6
Yeah. M3s are real baby tonewheel organs just like their big brothers in the B and C series. The "3" designates percussion stops, "2" is no percussion. The "M" identifiers it as a spinet form factor, which one octave shorter keyboards and lack the white on black (reverse color) keys that the bigger organs use to select presets. The M series only has one octave of bass pedals. Be aware that all Hammond tonewheel organs, being electromechanical in nature, require periodic application of special Hammond organ oil, which is is added into little cups on top of the tonewheel assembly. If the organ hasn't been properly lubricated in a while the tonewheel assembly may not spin at a proper or consistent speed or might be completely frozen up, requiring disassembly and painstaking service. If some moron has tried lubricating it with the wrong oil the entire mechanism might be really gummed up, which would require disassembly and careful cleaning out of all the congealed gunk. Tonewheel organs also use two motors to spin the tonewheel mechanism, one non-synchronous starter motor to bring everything up to speed from a standstill and one synchronous motor which is then switched on to lock to the line frequency and keep everything spinning in tune. Each motor has its own switch - the starter has a spring loaded nonlocking type so it springs back to off after the synchronous main main motor has taken over and the main motor has a regular locking type so it stays on once engaged until it's manually switched off. Needless to say, both motors must be in good operating condition for the organ to work. Be aware that any Hammond tonewheel organ that has been sitting unused for any significant amount of time is almost certainly going to require having the tonewheel mechanism disassembled and cleaned before it's likely to work, just like an old vintage car that's been sitting unused in a barn for years and years without being periodically fired up. Gotta love electromechanical technology! Are both of these M3's? What's the deal with the different keys up top? Bottom is an M3
|
|
|
Post by john on Nov 4, 2017 10:46:36 GMT -6
Yes mine looks just like the bottom pic. Also, if you’re lucky the oil will still be twist tied to a wire in the back. Most I have seen still had the original oil syringe. There’s plenty of info online to dig into but basically there are 3 little caps that need to be refreshed once a year or so. There’s a few places who sell the real stuff too. Luckily mine just needed a good dusting. Also before you move it be sure to lock it down so the internals don’t rock. Suggest doing some reading on that topic too. No biggie just a few bolts to tighten.
|
|
|
Post by drbill on Nov 4, 2017 10:55:47 GMT -6
I want to know what is the synthesizer list! Haha!! That's a different one altogether. I'm done chasing the analogs these days, but I have my favorites that will likely never be sold. I use em less and less though..... The important analog/digital ones for me : Prophet 5 -- check Jupiter 6 -- check Super Jupiter -- check DX7IIFD -- check V-Synth -- check D-50 -- check MicroWave -- check DSI PolyEvolver -- check Ones that I'd probably pick up if the opportunity presented itself, if there was room (which there currently isn't) and if I was focused on more electronic music again (which I'm currently not doing that much of)..... Oberheim OB8 (or similar) -- MiniMoog -- Arp 2600 -- Roland jp8 (maybe) -- Fairlight II (maybe) -- Something modular (I'd have to check out the new awesome options) -- That's a game that's never ending.....
|
|
|
Post by jcoutu1 on Nov 4, 2017 11:10:04 GMT -6
Yes mine looks just like the bottom pic. Also, if you’re lucky the oil will still be twist tied to a wire in the back. Most I have seen still had the original oil syringe. There’s plenty of info online to dig into but basically there are 3 little caps that need to be refreshed once a year or so. There’s a few places who sell the real stuff too. Luckily mine just needed a good dusting. Also before you move it be sure to lock it down so the internals don’t rock. Suggest doing some reading on that topic too. No biggie just a few bolts to tighten. Got a link about locking it down?
|
|
|
Post by stormymondays on Nov 4, 2017 11:23:57 GMT -6
|
|
|
Post by Guitar on Nov 4, 2017 12:34:29 GMT -6
I want to know what is the synthesizer list! Haha!! That's a different one altogether. I'm done chasing the analogs these days, but I have my favorites that will likely never be sold. I use em less and less though..... The important analog/digital ones for me : Prophet 5 -- check Jupiter 6 -- check Super Jupiter -- check DX7IIFD -- check V-Synth -- check D-50 -- check MicroWave -- check DSI PolyEvolver -- check Ones that I'd probably pick up if the opportunity presented itself, if there was room (which there currently isn't) and if I was focused on more electronic music again (which I'm currently not doing that much of)..... Oberheim OB8 (or similar) -- MiniMoog -- Arp 2600 -- Roland jp8 (maybe) -- Fairlight II (maybe) -- Something modular (I'd have to check out the new awesome options) -- That's a game that's never ending..... I'm super jealous of the D50... that's right in my price range and it's one of the 'big ones' I haven't had yet but I know I already love the sound. Also jealous of the big analog polys I don't have one the closest I've got is an Alpha Juno. That thing doesn't have enough knobs, but sounds good.
|
|
|
Post by jcoutu1 on Nov 5, 2017 20:13:12 GMT -6
|
|
|
Post by keymod on Nov 6, 2017 3:51:28 GMT -6
Great photo.
|
|
|
Post by Johnkenn on Nov 6, 2017 10:22:11 GMT -6
Man. Those M3s are sooo tempting. But the mechanical maintenance scares me. So - because I’m ignorant - can you guys explain...this has no Leslie effect? Do you have to go buy a 122 cab?
|
|
|
Post by drbill on Nov 6, 2017 10:27:54 GMT -6
Yes.
|
|
|
Post by keymod on Nov 6, 2017 10:48:48 GMT -6
Man. Those M3s are sooo tempting. But the mechanical maintenance scares me. So - because I’m ignorant - can you guys explain...this has no Leslie effect? Do you have to go buy a 122 cab? While some spinet Hammond organs have the potential to sound as we expect a B3 to sound, that potential is not realized without a proper Leslie tone cabinet and interface. The Leslie contains a tube power amp and independent spinning rotors for the high and low frequecies. Even the mechanical noises or the rotors speeding up and slowing down add to what we consider authentic Hammond sound. Doesn't have to be a 122, could be a 145 or 147.
|
|
|
Post by jcoutu1 on Nov 6, 2017 10:55:04 GMT -6
|
|
|
Post by jeremygillespie on Nov 6, 2017 11:12:05 GMT -6
Much of the sound can be attributed to the Leslie cab and how it interacts with the room and mics. Most great Hammond players are constantly flipping the Leslie settings and using it as an effect going in and out of sections of songs or holding out longer phrases.. (not to mention messing with the draw bars at the same time along with the volume pedal). Not so sure you’d get that same vibe from just going line out. Watching a master b3 player is almost like magic.
|
|
|
Post by Guitar on Nov 6, 2017 11:14:48 GMT -6
Those Neo Instruments Ventilator pedals seem to get unanimous praise as a compact leslie sim in a box.
A more affordable one maybe is the Boss or something. Also seems to be rated well.
|
|
|
Post by keymod on Nov 6, 2017 11:14:58 GMT -6
IIRC, my M3 had a factory RCA input jack installed on it's internal amp. I remember patching the output of a DX7 into it.
|
|
|
Post by jcoutu1 on Nov 6, 2017 11:17:04 GMT -6
IIRC, my M3 had a factory RCA input jack installed on it's internal amp. I remember patching the output of a DX7 into it. Yeah, the link shows how to convert that RCA input to a line output. From there, you could go into a leslie or any other amp.
|
|
|
Post by john on Nov 6, 2017 11:31:31 GMT -6
I record mine dry from the stock speaker, typically with a coles 4038. Then use fx in the mix. using a reamp I was sending it to the strymon lex pedal which worked great. gave me a "dry" and "wet" to blend. I recently got a Cordovox (vibratone) but the footswitch isn't responding. Once I sort that out I will send the reamp line to that and mic it up. jcoutu1, congrats, how's she play?
|
|
|
Post by jcoutu1 on Nov 6, 2017 11:47:08 GMT -6
I record mine dry from the stock speaker, typically with a coles 4038. Then use fx in the mix. using a reamp I was sending it to the strymon lex pedal which worked great. gave me a "dry" and "wet" to blend. I recently got a Cordovox (vibratone) but the footswitch isn't responding. Once I sort that out I will send the reamp line to that and mic it up. jcoutu1, congrats, how's she play? Seems to be in pretty decent condition. It felt like everything was working as it should. Keys feel a bit dusty, but overall I think it's a good haul for an hour of effort and no money out of pocket.
|
|
ericn
Temp
Balance Engineer
Posts: 14,961
|
Post by ericn on Nov 6, 2017 12:37:03 GMT -6
I record mine dry from the stock speaker, typically with a coles 4038. Then use fx in the mix. using a reamp I was sending it to the strymon lex pedal which worked great. gave me a "dry" and "wet" to blend. I recently got a Cordovox (vibratone) but the footswitch isn't responding. Once I sort that out I will send the reamp line to that and mic it up. jcoutu1, congrats, how's she play? Seems to be in pretty decent condition. It felt like everything was working as it should. Keys feel a bit dusty, but overall I think it's a good haul for an hour of effort and no money out of pocket. Can't beat free, but before any session work I would at the very least have somebody who knows how one of these is supposed to feel, play sound play around with it! Nothing worse than walking into a nice new room and stuff kinda works!
|
|
|
Post by christopher on Nov 6, 2017 13:47:26 GMT -6
Just remember to check with a known tuner and see if you are in tune, and use that tuner for guitars in case later they want to add keys. Usually I always ask first session if they want keys and then tune their instruments to the keyboard. Learned that one the hard way one time when after all the overdubs the band brings out a cheap casio that they forgot to tell me was "their sound", haha.
|
|
|
Post by notneeson on Nov 6, 2017 14:29:45 GMT -6
I recorded the drawer bar Nord through a real Leslie one time— it was pretty great.
|
|