Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Apr 6, 2017 10:23:10 GMT -6
I know a few of you have said you've built the CAPI VP 26. I have one on the way and I'm hoping to get started this weekend. I have a question I was hoping someone here would be able to clear up since I didn't get a reply back from Jeff Steiger. I get that all the current build info is on this webpage: capi-gear.com/catalog/support_docs.php Although it may seem obvious given the lack of other viewable options there, I just wanted to clarify that this means that I need to use the Old VP2x Assembly Guide in conjunction with the Rev C. BOM, correct? I've built a few mics and, recently a DIYRE EQP5, but I still consider myself a DIY noob and a complete idiot when it comes to these things, so before I embark on the wonderous journey of my VP26 build, I just wanted to be 100% sure. You know, like the old adage says, measure twice, cut once. Thanks, M |
|
|
|
Post by terryrocks on Apr 6, 2017 11:28:40 GMT -6
Vp26 will likely be just as easy as the diyre eq. I can build one in an hour or so. The opamp on the other hand...
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Apr 6, 2017 11:36:46 GMT -6
Vp26 will likely be just as easy as the diyre eq. I can build one in an hour or so. The opamp on the other hand... I hear ya. I ordered a Louder than Liftoff Rogue 5 to pop in there. Didn't want this to be the first time building an op amp. I'm not planning to rush it since I'm trying to squeeze every moment of therapeutic enjoyment out of getting to build something again. So, Terry, can you confirm that what I need to use to build this sucker is the Old VP2x Assembly Guide in conjunction with the Rev C. BOM? |
|
|
|
Post by terryrocks on Apr 6, 2017 12:20:17 GMT -6
I cannot. The last one I built was a couple years back.
Jsteigar is on this board from time to time. I'm sure he'll answer you.
|
|
|
|
Post by Bender on Apr 6, 2017 12:43:01 GMT -6
Yes you use the old assembly guide as a guide- the main differences being less work on the button switches.As mentioned in the other thread, the big thing to take away from the build guide that's still relevant is how to install the gain and output knobs. You plop em in affix the chassis and front cover plate lining everything up in their perspective holes, then solder the back parts, disassemble, flip over and solder it out; IE DON'T SEAT THEM ON THE BOARD. Look out for that, and it's a breeze!
The CAPI website hasn't added a new spruced up pictorial build A la Chunger/or like the bt50's but I'm sure it will be at some point! Have fun!
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Apr 6, 2017 12:51:24 GMT -6
Yes you use the old assembly guide as a guide- the main differences being less work on the button switches.As mentioned in the other thread, the big thing to take away from the build guide that's still relevant is how to install the gain and output knobs. You plop em in affix the chassis and front cover plate lining everything up in their perspective holes, then solder the back parts, disassemble, flip over and solder it out; IE DON'T SEAT THEM ON THE BOARD. Look out for that, and it's a breeze! The CAPI website hasn't added a new spruced up pictorial build A la Chunger/or like the bt50's but I'm sure it will be at some point! Have fun! Thanks Bender! I couldn't get an email reply from Capi so I just wanted to make sure. I appreciate the confirmation. If only every DIY seller had the patience to constantly update and revise their build guides like Matt @micparts does, it would make noobs like me a lot less twitchy. All in all, I'm looking forward to this build and will take your suggestions to heart. I'll study the old guide and make sure I get the knobs in there correctly. |
|
|
|
Post by Bender on Apr 6, 2017 13:04:53 GMT -6
You won't have a problem,IMO the 26's are pretty idiot proof. Just make a sheet of all the resistors & capacitors and you're gold!
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Apr 6, 2017 13:09:00 GMT -6
Will do. Let's just hope I'm not idiot-proof-proof.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Apr 6, 2017 14:14:34 GMT -6
Ok, just to put some final punctuation on this issue. I just got an email from Capi Jeff. Sorry for the delay. I was slammed yesterday and running around town today since 8:30 am. I just got back. I'm a one man show here so there's only so much I can get done in a day.
You must follow the BOM that matches the Rev written on the PCB. In this case its Rev C. The old assembly guide is overall very relevant but use the BOM as to what exact parts go to particular locations. The main error folks make is soldering the Bourns t-pad and/or Bourns gain pot directly to the PCB. Chung has some good pics for that here:studio939.blogspot.com/2012/08/vp26-microphone-preamp-build.htmlSo there you go. Looking back at my original post, I now kinda feel like a total douche having used the phrase "didn't get a reply back" when I probably should have just said, "hadn't heard back yet", but I'm an impatient man with occasional passive-aggressive tendencies and my morning cuppa joe didn't taste right. That's my excuse and I'm sticking with it, dammit. Big thanks to Jeff, Bender and TerryRocks. Now if only the f'n mailman would get my VP 26 here already. WTF.  |
|
|
|
Post by mdmitch2 on Apr 6, 2017 17:26:58 GMT -6
Just to clarify, if you have the stepped grayhill for gain, the only pot that's mounted off the board is the output attenuator. This will be pretty obvious once you see the parts. And if you ordered the litz wire, make sure you follow the litz diagram for wiring (the colors are different).
|
|
|
|
Post by maq3396 on Apr 8, 2017 7:07:27 GMT -6
For me, presorting all the resistors, caps and diodes makes the build much safer and more relaxing.
You can write out all the values on sheets of paper and tape the parts to it...this works very well.
As I am lethargic by nature, and the parts list for the BT50s (last build) was long, I just printed Jeff's very well laid out BOM and taped the parts to it.
Very easy and, in the end, was neater than my hand made lists.
Have a great time building this...Jeff's designs are very rewarding projects.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Apr 8, 2017 10:23:14 GMT -6
For me, presorting all the resistors, caps and diodes makes the build much safer and more relaxing. You can write out all the values on sheets of paper and tape the parts to it...this works very well. As I am lethargic by nature, and the parts list for the BT50s (last build) was long, I just printed Jeff's very well laid out BOM and taped the parts to it. Very easy and, in the end, was neater than my hand made lists. Have a great time building this...Jeff's designs are very rewarding projects. Abso-frickin-lutely. I got my kit yesterday and did that very thing with my resistors, taped 'em to the BOM... then, because yesterday was stressful as fuck and I wanted to lose myself in the therapy of the build, did a stupid thing because I wasn't fully focused and installed all the R resistors in the RG spots and had to take them out and re-do them. It doesn't look as clean as I'd like now, and hopefully I didn't wreck anything, but after that hiccup, so far, so good. Taking my time because my Rogue 5 DOA doesn't arrive until later today. All in all, it's a much more simple build than I thought it would be. My only small criticism is that, again, I wish the build guide had been updated so that I'm not looking here at the guide then back to the BOM and the other documents like the one about the LED installation. I'm lazy. I want all my critical info in one document. I can only guess as to the amount of painstaking work that goes into developing and selling these kits (and then dealing with the annoying emails from dopes like me), especially since almost all of the major DIY audio players are one-man bands. I just now have a greater appreciation for the way some of them are able to keep their build guides up to date for noobs like myself who jump into these projects with levels of uncertainty and inexperience in understanding circuits, but thrill at the idea of building great audio kits like these. Overall, my hat is off to Jeff Steiger and assuming I didn't brick this thing already, I can see myself dipping my noobie little toes in the CAPI waters again, and again... |
|
