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Post by jcoutu1 on Feb 10, 2017 10:31:32 GMT -6
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Post by M57 on Feb 10, 2017 11:03:52 GMT -6
In the case of the Purewave product, it looks like they're backed, so there's little difference between hanging them a few inches from the ceiling or mounting them flush. The ReadyAcoustic product, on the other hand is sonically pourous, and performs substantially better if you can get it to hang at least a couple inches from the ceiling. I know you don't have much height to work with. I have similar product and I recommend flush mounting the panels with Z-brackets - and use the big 2'x4'x4" guys in the corners as bass traps and as gobos. www.acoustimac.com/zbar12
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Post by bowie on Feb 10, 2017 12:12:56 GMT -6
I just used a bunch of these last week for hanging O/C and Rockboard; www.buyinsulationproductstore.com/acoustic-panel-impaling-clips/Cheap and very effective. If you need an idea of how many you'll need; I used 1ea for 1'x1' squares. 5ea for the heaviest version of the Rockboard + diffusors on top of them. A regular 703 4'x2'x2" panel does fine with 4 and you could probably use 3ea. TIP; I discovered it helps to hand-bend the prongs on these at a slight upward angle! It makes them sit closer to the wall as they settle in, giving a more snug look. Otherwise, the panels don't sit all that flush sometimes. I also used the expensive ($4ea) ones that hold them 2" away from the wall. If I had it to do over again, I wouldn't have bothered with the spaced ones.
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Post by mulmany on Feb 10, 2017 12:28:09 GMT -6
I just used a bunch of these last week for hanging O/C and Rockboard; www.buyinsulationproductstore.com/acoustic-panel-impaling-clips/Cheap and very effective. If you need an idea of how many you'll need; I used 1ea for 1'x1' squares. 5ea for the heaviest version of the Rockboard + diffusors on top of them. A regular 703 4'x2'x2" panel does fine with 4 and you could probably use 3ea. TIP; I discovered it helps to hand-bend the prongs on these at a slight upward angle! It makes them sit closer to the wall as they settle in, giving a more snug look. Otherwise, the panels don't sit all that flush sometimes. I also used the expensive ($4ea) ones that hold them 2" away from the wall. If I had it to do over again, I wouldn't have bothered with the spaced ones. If you are ceiling mounting with inpailing clips you can spread some construction adhesive on the spikes before hanging the panels.
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Post by donr on Feb 10, 2017 12:46:47 GMT -6
I've got Three GIK tuned bass traps and two GIK 242 absorbers to hang from the ceiling soon. The Wooden GIK frames have eye hooks and they included picture wire. I have to put anchors in the ceiling and hang the frames. The bass traps will be parallel to the ceiling against the wall. The 242's will be hung at a slant as a cloud over the monitor position. Five more bass traps will stand on the floor against the wall closest to the monitors.
Also, I'm making fabric covered frames for about 150 sq.ft. of OC 703 to go on the walls. I'm following a design I commissioned Jeff Hedback to create. Trying to get this done before the end of the month.
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Post by drbill on Feb 10, 2017 14:21:11 GMT -6
Don - tell Jeff that Bill says "hi", and ask him how Kim hung my clouds. Very slick, and cheap and super sturdy to protect my noggin. They can easily be adjusted for angles. The connectors & hanging stuff from GIK is dismal. Not very sturdy, and can be easily "bumped" and move around. I used Z clips on the walls, and an interesting hanging solution for the clouds that Kim got at the local Home Depot. I'll try to post pics.....
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Post by swurveman on Feb 10, 2017 14:54:51 GMT -6
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Post by jcoutu1 on Feb 10, 2017 15:33:15 GMT -6
In the case of the Purewave product, it looks like they're backed, so there's little difference between hanging them a few inches from the ceiling or mounting them flush. The ReadyAcoustic product, on the other hand is sonically pourous, and performs substantially better if you can get it to hang at least a couple inches from the ceiling. I know you don't have much height to work with. I have similar product and I recommend flush mounting the panels with Z-brackets - and use the big 2'x4'x4" guys in the corners as bass traps and as gobos. www.acoustimac.com/zbar12These z-bars look great, but the auralex panels aren't framed. I need to get the 2" auralex on the sloped ceiling for space reasons. The 4" traps will be in the corners and such, and should be able to make those work out. bowie, these impalers probably won't work out on a sloped ceiling right?
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Post by jcoutu1 on Feb 10, 2017 16:09:37 GMT -6
These look great. $42 for 8 pieces though. Totally feels like a screw job, but I'm not sure there is anything better for the slanted ceiling.
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Post by bowie on Feb 10, 2017 16:09:43 GMT -6
bowie , these impalers probably won't work out on a sloped ceiling right? I have a sloped ceiling and I imagine you might be able to bend the prongs at a severe angle so that they're basically horizontal when they're in the ceiling. You could then use some adhesive as mentioned earlier but then you're going to be leaving cavities in the back of the panels if you go to remove them. My personal thing for trapping on the ceiling is to use Auralex bass traps (EDIT; meant to say diffusors) the various hollow, plastic shell types, and stuff them with acoustic treatment. This basically traps bass and diffuses the top (which is typically something I'm after). It's easy to mount them in ceilings with drywall screws. I have always been able to find used Auralex diffusors on ebay and craiglist, for half (or less) the retail price. Also, though the get endlessly bashed on the other site, I think the T-Fusors work fantastic, in every room I've used them in. This is the lower part of a slant ceiling right above my mix/work position. Just thought I'd share for anyone who ever wondered about the TFusors. The ability to bass trap + diffuse is great.
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Post by jcoutu1 on Mar 14, 2017 20:48:42 GMT -6
Went with these. Huge pain trying to maneuver around the gear, get the the panels positioned, and bang them to mark the wall where the screws go, but otherwise went up without a hitch. Hopefully, they're still hanging in the morning.
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Post by donr on Mar 14, 2017 22:28:52 GMT -6
I hung 8 GIK Tuned membrane bass traps this week. Three of them went on the ceiling. They weigh about 20 lbs. each. I used four flat steel 4 screw brackets from Home Depot on each one, and four 50lb drywall anchors/trap. Three wood screws from each bracket went into the solid back of the trap and the fourth into the drywall anchor. I used bigger brackets and longer screws on the ceiling ones. I don't want these coming down, and they work better if they're rigidly mounted. This was definitely a two man job.
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Post by matt on Mar 14, 2017 23:33:03 GMT -6
I hung 8 GIK Tuned membrane bass traps this week. I detect a theme in your color choice: Apologies Don, the source for this YT video is a boot, sadly. But you guys kill it on this recording!
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Post by swurveman on Mar 15, 2017 7:17:29 GMT -6
Went with these. Huge pain trying to maneuver around the gear, get the the panels positioned, and bang them to mark the wall where the screws go, but otherwise went up without a hitch. Hopefully, they're still hanging in the morning. Yeah, you get those rotofast fasteners, take a look at them, and scratch your head. But once you get the hang of them they are-at least in my case- strong and efficient. How many did you use for each panel?
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Post by jcoutu1 on Mar 15, 2017 7:22:15 GMT -6
Went with these. Huge pain trying to maneuver around the gear, get the the panels positioned, and bang them to mark the wall where the screws go, but otherwise went up without a hitch. Hopefully, they're still hanging in the morning. Yeah, you get those rotofast fasteners, take a look at them, and scratch your head. But once you get the hang of them they are-at least in my case- strong and efficient. How many did you use for each panel? Just 4 per. Panels are open back, 2 inch, and fairly light, so I thought 4 was sufficient.
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