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Post by jcoutu1 on Nov 8, 2017 17:16:10 GMT -6
Sweeter than UAD pultecs (haven't used myself) or DMG pultec curves (which are very)? Honestly I thought the Warm wasn't that sweet sounding. I mean I wouldn't put plugin eqs on a bus if I could avoid it, and instead use my hardware eqs, but nor would I use a Pultec hardware design that doesn't actually sound very sweet for that. I had 3 of the KT's. Didn't find them sweet. Sold them quickly. FWIW.
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Post by Guitar on Nov 8, 2017 17:16:17 GMT -6
I think their sweet enough for that.
I didn't shoot them out specifically with pultec plugins, but I did go back to a project from recently, I removed a couple plugins on the center channels and did some KT EQP-KT stuff, and they did sound a lot sweeter than the plugins to my ear.
They've got a good tone, that's for sure.
I'd like to do some more in depth comparisons. I've only used them a few times so I don't have an incredibly deep opinion, other than they sound good.
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Post by m03 on Nov 8, 2017 22:40:50 GMT -6
Now that they've been out for a bit, anyone here own both a newer Pulse Techniques unit and one of the Klark Teknik units? Most comparisons seem to be the KT vs Pultec plugins, but I'd like to hear thoughts on how they compare to the "reissue".
I ran across a Pulse EQP-1S for sale locally for a decent price (comparable to the last couple of used ones that sold on Reverb) and I've been stupidly considering selling a couple of spare items in order to fund it...just not sure if the juice is worth the squeeze in the current era, given the alternatives.
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Post by schmalzy on Nov 10, 2017 11:01:21 GMT -6
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Post by EmRR on Nov 11, 2017 18:56:30 GMT -6
Is that a feedback trim or an output pot? Not any harder to do it right with a feedback trim, which I doubt it is. That's stupid money for something that should probably run about half that with return US shipping. Any local guitar tech should be able to do that mod for pennies on the $.
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ericn
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Post by ericn on Nov 11, 2017 19:29:46 GMT -6
Is that a feedback trim or an output pot? Not any harder to do it right with a feedback trim, which I doubt it is. That's stupid money for something that should probably run about half that with return US shipping. Any local guitar tech should be able to do that mod for pennies on the $. New service to offer Doug!
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Post by Deleted on Nov 12, 2017 6:30:27 GMT -6
The newer WA I have has this already. Perhaps KT forgot to copy that bit
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Post by reggae on Dec 2, 2017 15:56:32 GMT -6
I came here from a Google search trying to find out how hot these things run and ended up reading drama for like an hour. Does anyone have any advice on if I should leave an open 1U space between each unit, or are they fine to stack directly on top of each other in a rack?
Thanks.
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Post by Deleted on Dec 2, 2017 16:17:43 GMT -6
I leave a gap between my WA's. KT copied that gap .........
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ericn
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Post by ericn on Dec 2, 2017 17:20:12 GMT -6
I came here from a Google search trying to find out how hot these things run and ended up reading drama for like an hour. Does anyone have any advice on if I should leave an open 1U space between each unit, or are they fine to stack directly on top of each other in a rack? Thanks. Welcome! Honestly most tube gear and inexpensive specificly you can't go wrong leaving a space! Understand custom casework is expensive & punching holes for venting adds to the cost, as much as I believe good design should mean I don't need space, it's as much about the design of the gear above and below as the design of your rack!
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Post by reggae on Dec 2, 2017 20:25:12 GMT -6
Honestly most tube gear and inexpensive specifically you can't go wrong leaving a space! Should the space be a whole 1U or would just a single screw hole higher work?
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ericn
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Post by ericn on Dec 2, 2017 21:46:28 GMT -6
Honestly most tube gear and inexpensive specifically you can't go wrong leaving a space! Should the space be a whole 1U or would just a single screw hole higher work? 1/2 space would probably work, but most rack rails are not set up for that other than the cheap aluminum rails with captive screws like those found in SKB racks! I would not trust those with more than a couple of units that are heavy in the rear, in fact I have seen way to many bend! Now I'm also the guy who feels rear rails are a must and has been known to use generic bulk steal to attach units that are not designed for rear rails to use rear rails! Before my freind the legendary DR Bill mentions it the solution is to DIY using Tapped Oak as rails! This not only gives you the option of spacing how you want to but also can eliminate some grounding issues if you space gear so that there is no metal to metal contact! As much as I want to say he is wrong, my first SR racks all had hard oak rails back and front open spaces and little to no hum problems, it was only when I moved "up" to lovely Starcase racks with steel rails and vent panels that I had problems, but Damn those 3/4in Starcase's were perdddy😎! So as hard as it is to say Yeah Bill you are right! If you are good at DIY wood working or know somebody who is DIY is the best route for racks ! Infact a simple 2x4 frame with open or fabric sides and 3/4 plywood top and bottom is probably the best rack solution. It offers incredible cable management and cooling, also don't be a sheep and try putting your rackmount power strip on the bottom! You will find not fighting gravity with heavy power cords so much easier ( I also advise cutting power cords and using after market Edison plugs makes life so much easier)! With inexpensive and expensive gear with cheap face plates I can't emphasize how much rigging your own rear rail support can keep it looking good! Of course this is one of those duh things but if you do use wood rails, don't use metal vent panels or all the ground loop prevention goes out the window! Call me Eric the audio infrastructure guru!
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Post by subspace on Dec 2, 2017 22:09:18 GMT -6
I just pulled the last two vent panels out of the rack to cram one more tube piece in. Bottom 4 units are tube, but being an open frame rack I don't worry about heat much, the A/C dump is right above it.
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Post by reggae on Dec 2, 2017 22:21:22 GMT -6
Thanks for the detailed response.
I'm pretty crap at DIY woodworking, but I built my rack myself. The rack rails themselves are Penn Elcom brand. I'm still in the process of getting everything put in the rack properly and wired up correctly. I just don't want anything to overheat and get damaged. The Klark EQP-KT units don't have vents on the tops, but I know they have tubes, so I wasn't sure how to properly place them. The main power strip I use is kept in a smaller rack on it's own a few feet away on the floor.
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Post by EmRR on Dec 2, 2017 22:30:41 GMT -6
These units should not run hot. Honestly, a lot of SS gear probably runs hotter. My MOTU 16A and Monitor 8 run hotter than anything else I own.
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ericn
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Post by ericn on Dec 2, 2017 22:37:43 GMT -6
These units should not run hot. Honestly, a lot of SS gear probably runs hotter. My MOTU 16A and Monitor 8 run hotter than anything else I own. Yeah but Doug you know in the old days they would use a larger chassis just to keep it running cool ! Now it's but we can save some money if we shave off one rack unit!
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Post by drbill on Dec 2, 2017 22:50:45 GMT -6
Before my freind the legendary DR Bill mentions it the solution is to DIY using Tapped Oak as rails! This not only gives you the option of spacing how you want to but also can eliminate some grounding issues if you space gear so that there is no metal to metal contact! As much as I want to say he is wrong, my first SR racks all had hard oak rails back and front open spaces and little to no hum problems, it was only when I moved "up" to lovely Starcase racks with steel rails and vent panels that I had problems, but Damn those 3/4in Starcase's were perdddy😎! So as hard as it is to say Yeah Bill you are right! Of course I'm right bro!!! Can you send a note to my wife and let her know that??? One correction though - Hard Rock Maple. Not Oak. Oak splits too much. That said, I've gone beyond the wood rails and have everything in metal rails right now - in the Sterling desk. Oh, the heresy!!! LOL Wood is a pita, but worth it if you're having grounding issues - OR - if you need some breathing room. Right now, my front rack (desk) real estate is so valuable that I've eschewed putting in blanks anywhere except around the Manley VariMu which gets hot enough to fry eggs. BTW - You are hardcore with the rear rails!!!
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Post by EmRR on Dec 2, 2017 22:58:59 GMT -6
These units should not run hot. Honestly, a lot of SS gear probably runs hotter. My MOTU 16A and Monitor 8 run hotter than anything else I own. Yeah but Doug you know in the old days they would use a larger chassis just to keep it running cool ! Now it's but we can save some money if we shave off one rack unit! in the old days they'd put the f'in tubes on the back where they belong! And when I say these things should not run hot, I mean probably hardly warm on any level. It's 2 dinky low level tubes. There are 500 series modules with similar in them, no heat issues.
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ericn
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Post by ericn on Dec 2, 2017 23:42:11 GMT -6
Before my freind the legendary DR Bill mentions it the solution is to DIY using Tapped Oak as rails! This not only gives you the option of spacing how you want to but also can eliminate some grounding issues if you space gear so that there is no metal to metal contact! As much as I want to say he is wrong, my first SR racks all had hard oak rails back and front open spaces and little to no hum problems, it was only when I moved "up" to lovely Starcase racks with steel rails and vent panels that I had problems, but Damn those 3/4in Starcase's were perdddy😎! So as hard as it is to say Yeah Bill you are right! Of course I'm right bro!!! Can you send a note to my wife and let her know that??? One correction though - Hard Rock Maple. Not Oak. Oak splits too much. That said, I've gone beyond the wood rails and have everything in metal rails right now - in the Sterling desk. Oh, the heresy!!! LOL Wood is a pita, but worth it if you're having grounding issues - OR - if you need some breathing room. Right now, my front rack (desk) real estate is so valuable that I've eschewed putting in blanks anywhere except around the Manley VariMu which gets hot enough to fry eggs. BTW - You are hardcore with the rear rails!!! What you went conventional! And yeah my memory blanked on the Maple! Y Yeah It's a lesson learned from years of touring and seeing stuff come into the Full Co Service dept because a manufacturer cheaped out on metal work! Add in all I learned from hanging with the install guys ! Since moving out of the loft means time for a new space and configuration, I think all racks will be Hard Rock Maple frames fabric sides ply base and maple tops with some built in hardwood lacing strips. I'll put them on bases the same height as my simple moving trollies so they can slide on the trollies for moving/ service ! Since moving from the loft means my only workshop space is my soldering bench I'm joining the local hammerspace with a CNC router ! I'll share the plans when I get them done on CAD!
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Post by drbill on Dec 3, 2017 1:07:31 GMT -6
Sounds SWEET Eric!!!
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Post by lcr on Dec 3, 2017 7:41:40 GMT -6
Detailed pics and vids please Eric!
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ericn
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Post by ericn on Dec 3, 2017 17:29:16 GMT -6
Detailed pics and vids please Eric! When we get there right now it's a couple of rough drawings on scrap paper.
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Post by dinmentor on Oct 3, 2018 7:09:50 GMT -6
Hi, just joined the forum as this thread was a very interesting read. im intersted in the EQP-KT,
any more experiences with it ?
has anyone contacted Klark Teknik about the upper band thing thats not correct?
Cheers
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Post by drbill on Oct 3, 2018 9:50:12 GMT -6
I'm still liking and using mine. Or rather the pair.
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Post by Guitar on Oct 3, 2018 17:09:07 GMT -6
Mine are just sitting here staring at me, along with lots of other hardware. I've been on a bit of an ITB run lately, I guess.
I still think they are great.
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