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Post by mrholmes on May 5, 2015 17:09:00 GMT -6
Whats the best, and save way, to clean noisy pots in a HW unit which was not in use for two years....
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Post by mobeach on May 5, 2015 18:42:42 GMT -6
Pot cleaner.  |
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Post by mulmany on May 5, 2015 18:51:38 GMT -6
Whats the best, and save way, to clean noisy pots in a HW unit which was not in use for two years.... Flush with contact cleaner while exercising the pot then follow that up with fader lube. This will keep the contact cleaner from eating the pot traces. |
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Post by mrholmes on May 5, 2015 19:41:01 GMT -6
Whats the best, and save way, to clean noisy pots in a HW unit which was not in use for two years.... Flush with contact cleaner while exercising the pot then follow that up with fader lube. This will keep the contact cleaner from eating the pot traces. thanks sir... |
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Post by Deleted on May 5, 2015 19:46:12 GMT -6
Since you are in germany: Teslanol T6 is my contact cleaner now. Nice one, cost effective and good quality.
Everything depends which type of pots they are, first i would try with a lot of movement.
In the worst case i would disassemble it and see what can/must be done. Depends on how worse it is, if it is a custom pot, or if it is easier to find a replacement part...
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Post by mrholmes on May 5, 2015 19:48:41 GMT -6
I see I also could use WD 40 same cemicals inside as with the fader lube from the us.
Nice..... yes true I think I have to replace both pots.... but if it works for a few months with cleaning all is fine, I need the unit for the actuall project....
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Post by Deleted on May 5, 2015 19:53:14 GMT -6
Nononononononnono.
I hope you are kidding!
You can throw the pot away if you try WD-40 ... it may be ok for a few weeks up to months and then it's lost in most cases.
I heard from a radio guy who used the teslanol stuff and pots last since decades now.
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Post by mrholmes on May 5, 2015 19:55:48 GMT -6
Nononononononnono. I hope you are kidding! You can throw the pot away if you try WD-40 ... it may be ok for a few weeks up to months and then it's lost in most cases. I heard from a radio guy who used the teslanol stuff and pots last since decades now. ok what to use instead for the fader lube? only teslanol? |
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Post by Deleted on May 5, 2015 20:05:22 GMT -6
At least this is my experience. I tried quite some stuff, even the WD-40, Kontakt 60 and whatever, stuff, most pretty aggressive, pure vaseline, these british lubes, and in the end i was pretty happy that i found T6-Oszillin. Worked best, and was a kind recommendation by Volker (silent:arts)...
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Post by Deleted on May 5, 2015 20:08:49 GMT -6
T6 does lubricate the pot a bit.
In case it's really needed, a friend of mine uses vaseline to lube his pots if it was needed to use a more aggressive cleaner...i was always ok with teslanol only...
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Post by mrholmes on May 6, 2015 6:17:10 GMT -6
T6 does lubricate the pot a bit. In case it's really needed, a friend of mine uses vaseline to lube his pots if it was needed to use a more aggressive cleaner...i was always ok with teslanol only... Great and easy answer. If I ask 10 techs I get 20 answers.... Thx sbf |
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Post by svart on May 6, 2015 7:18:27 GMT -6
You might just try blowing it out with compressed air first to see if you can get any dust/particles out without resorting to chemicals.
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Post by Deleted on May 6, 2015 12:07:15 GMT -6
I always wondered if this helps really.
If there is any lubricant left in the pot, you might as well blow the dust inside of the pot on the condutive trace where it stucks then. Therefore, i try to clean it with movement first, trying to wipe the dust to the ends and off the trace gently, just use it the full way forth and back for quite a while. If this did not already solve the problem, i found that you can't do much without a cleaner. I always fear to lift off the conductive trace by too much air pressure from the wrong angle or do similar damage if i use compressed air on a assembled pot. This said, i use a careful amount of compressed air in the cleaning process, if i already disassembled a pot and can actually see, what i am doing....
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Post by svart on May 6, 2015 15:24:24 GMT -6
I always wondered if this helps really. If there is any lubricant left in the pot, you might as well blow the dust inside of the pot on the condutive trace where it stucks then. Therefore, i try to clean it with movement first, trying to wipe the dust to the ends and off the trace gently, just use it the full way forth and back for quite a while. If this did not already solve the problem, i found that you can't do much without a cleaner. I always fear to lift off the conductive trace by too much air pressure from the wrong angle or do similar damage if i use compressed air on a assembled pot. This said, i use a careful amount of compressed air in the cleaning process, if i already disassembled a pot and can actually see, what i am doing.... Interesting viewpoint. It seems the majority of pots that I've had any issues with have been in my mixer, and they are completely dry inside. Perhaps at one point they had lubricant inside, but no longer! I have seen a "dust" inside the pot covers before, probably from the carbon tracks wearing down over time, and it seemed that blowing that out made the pots a lot less scratchy. I have a store near me that stocks some kind of Caig pot cleaner and lube, I might give it a try after all. |
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Post by tasteliketape on May 6, 2015 15:24:55 GMT -6
I have great results with DeoxIT thi s use to be called Pro Gold not cheap but works wonder for me
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Post by jimwilliams on May 7, 2015 11:36:56 GMT -6
Having cleaned pot for 50 years, I found a couple solutions. Trim closely...
Oh wait, pots!
I use a non-residue contact cleaner, various formulations are around but the best ever, TEF is now outlawed by OSHA. Anything with a residue including lubes or Cramlin products will leave a residue that will collect even more dirt requiring the 'rinse and repeat' cycle.
Serous cases can be restored by either an ultrasonic rinse or disassembly. Remove the cover off the pots and wipe the element down with a q-tip soaked in that non-residue electronic contact cleaner. Re-assemble and enjoy. The same applies to carbon track faders that don't get clean with external spray. A tiny amount of heavy machine oil will lube pot shafts if sticky.
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Post by Bender on Nov 25, 2018 13:45:06 GMT -6
Hey ya'll, bringing this thread back from the dead. I have a buddy who's got some old/ OG Capi vp26's with silver faceplates,and variable gain pots that are scratchy & noisy. I offered to replace both the input and output pots for him, but 1st I'm wondering if it's safe to spray some deoxit one em and be done with it....less work & money spent that way. Thoughts?
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Post by mikec on Nov 25, 2018 15:57:27 GMT -6
I've had great luck with Deoxit. It also works great to spray on the pins of NOS amp tubes that may have gotten a little oxidation over time.
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Post by Deleted on Nov 26, 2018 3:45:14 GMT -6
I've also had Dexit around for over a decade now, it does seem to work great for cleaning and lubricating, BUT the pots do turn scratchy again after a month or two. Should I be using a proper lubricator after Deoxit, like Vaseline or machine oil or something?
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Post by svart on Nov 26, 2018 7:34:12 GMT -6
I've also had Dexit around for over a decade now, it does seem to work great for cleaning and lubricating, BUT the pots do turn scratchy again after a month or two. Should I be using a proper lubricator after Deoxit, like Vaseline or machine oil or something? Deoxit makes a version that is a cleaner and a fader lube as well. It's in a green can instead of red. |
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Post by Deleted on Nov 26, 2018 8:50:35 GMT -6
Ah good to know, thanks, will hunt it down!
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ericn
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Post by ericn on Nov 26, 2018 11:31:30 GMT -6
I've also had Dexit around for over a decade now, it does seem to work great for cleaning and lubricating, BUT the pots do turn scratchy again after a month or two. Should I be using a proper lubricator after Deoxit, like Vaseline or machine oil or something? Deoxit makes a version that is a cleaner and a fader lube as well. It's in a green can instead of red. Yep works great, I can’t remember who narrowed my can, looks like it’s time for a trip to Electronics Supply Co. |
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Post by johneppstein on Nov 26, 2018 11:34:50 GMT -6
I see I also could use WD 40 same cemicals inside as with the fader lube from the us. Nice..... yes true I think I have to replace both pots.... but if it works for a few months with cleaning all is fine, I need the unit for the actuall project.... DO NOT USE WD40! |
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ericn
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Post by ericn on Nov 26, 2018 13:30:33 GMT -6
I see I also could use WD 40 same cemicals inside as with the fader lube from the us. Nice..... yes true I think I have to replace both pots.... but if it works for a few months with cleaning all is fine, I need the unit for the actuall project.... DO NOT USE WD40! Right chemicals wrong formulation, kind of like saying CO & CO2 are the same things. |
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